trim rams not even

[whiskeyRichard]

See the attached picture.

One of the rams is always about 3/8 of an inch further extended than the other. It is the same at full up or full down.

Is there a simple way to resolve this. The only time it causes me trouble is when I need to remove and replace the drive....just makes it a bear to get back together. I have gone through the bleeding procedure in the service manual and this did not change.

1980 mercruiser 260 alpha 1 lower and se106 upper.

Thanks

 

[achris]

The rams with the least internal resistance will always move first. Just hook up one of them, and then hit the trim switch to bring the other into line.... As the 'problem' is just an inherent part of hydraulic design, there's nothing to be done about 'fixing' it....

Chris......

 

[Scott Danforth]

that is the nature of hydraulic cylinders unless you use a really expensive flow divider

use the trim buttons to move the rams, hook one up, then use the trim buttons to move the second ram (first wont move) and hook up the second.

 

[H20Rat]

I've never tried, but you probably can push the long one back by hand. They are part of a parallel circuit, oil should flow into the other one when you shove on it. They probably are uneven because you took one off first, and the weight of the drive was pushing the remaining one in.

 

[tpenfield]

I usually just insert the outdrive pin into the one that is extended the most and let the weight of the drive bring them back even. Be ready to put the pin int he opposite trim ram, or you will have the opposite problem.

 

[thumpar]

Both of my boats have done the same. I do like the others and hook up one and then move the adjust the trim until they line up. It is too hard to push one to make the other line up, especially considering all you have to do is hit the button.

 

[achris]

And if you're into making life really easy for yourself, install a transom mounted trim switch.

Chris....

 

[DouglasW]

The best $50 I have spent on my boat is the tilt control switches installed at the transom area (see blue arrow). Extremely helpful
.

 

[whiskeyRichard]

good deal, thanks for the ideas.

Since it is winter and the weather is not very good for boating, I have an appetite for upgrades and maintenance. I think I'll look into that switch.

Thanks

 

[achris]

The part number for that switch, which includes all the wiring, is 87-815200A1 if you have the round style harness connector, or 87-815200A2 if you have the Packard style trim harness connector...




Chris.........

 

[JASinIL2006]

The best $50 I have spent on my boat is the tilt control switches installed at the transom area (see blue arrow). Extremely helpful
.

Ditto!

 

[TyeeMan]

I love the idea of the transom mounted trim switch! The first time I saw it was when I was watching one of Chris's videos, I was immediately envious.

Dumb questions but, 1) Is that a Mercruiser part number? 2) Is that a plug and play type thing, my boat is a 1997? 3) Being that the switch is in fact located on the transom, is it totally water proof? I should think it would be.

 

[achris]

1) yes
2) yes (will fit to pumps all the way back to the late 60's)
3) yes

 

[DouglasW]

I love the idea of the transom mounted trim switch! The first time I saw it was when I was watching one of Chris's videos, I was immediately envious.

Dumb questions but, 1) Is that a Mercruiser part number? 2) Is that a plug and play type thing, my boat is a 1997? 3) Being that the switch is in fact located on the transom, is it totally water proof? I should think it would be.

Make sure to order the correct kit to fit your connector. I found a NOS one for a good price on eBay but it did not fit my connector, so I had to splice the wires into the pump wiring.

 

[JASinIL2006]

A transom mount trim switch is one of the easiest and most useful mods I’ve made to my boat. (And I first saw one in Chris’ video, too!) I got the genuine Mercruiser (or was it Quicksilver) model and installation was a snap.

 

[achris]

A transom mount trim switch is one of the easiest and most useful mods I’ve made to my boat. (And I first saw one in Chris’ video, too!) I got the genuine Mercruiser (or was it Quicksilver) model and installation was a snap.

I think I need to start talking to Merc about a commission.

I first put mine in, in 1989. Still have the old 165 in. I was so tired of up and down in the boat that I looked into what was available, and found Merc already did one. (I was going to put an OMC switch in )... The other thing I did, and I know a lot of other guys on iboats have done the same thing, is to run the main power wire for the trim pump directly from one of the batteries. That way, the switch is always 'hot', and you don't have to jump up into the boat to turn the battery switch on.

Installation is one hole, 3/4" and 1 small hole either side for the screws, 8 gauge I think. A template is supplied with the kit, as are the screws. Just drill the holes, mount the switch, and then from the inside of the boat, unplug the trim harness connector that goes to the dash, plug the end of the new switch harness into the trim pump harness, then plug the trim control harness plug (the one you just pulled out), into the other connector on the switch harness. Finished.

Chris......

Here's a drawing of how it hooks up....

 

[TyeeMan]

Chris, thanks for adding the wiring diagram! I was in my boat last night, I was looking at the tilt/trim pump wiring wondering how that switch wired in. Looks totally easy! Hardest part will be finding a good location for the switch.

 

[Boatboaster]

Both of my boats have done the same. I do like the others and hook up one and then move the adjust the trim until they line up. It is too hard to push one to make the other line up, especially considering all you have to do is hit the button.

New to the site and was looking for some advice on the same issue. Q. - when you say "hook up one" - how are you doing that? I've seen ropes used to wrap around one side of the pin - but what are you "hooking it up" to? The boat is outside and as I look around, there is not much I can hook the other end of the rope to. I don't know how much it would take to keep the one ram from moving, so looking for some advice or an example of what to hook it up to. I already made one dumb decision when I took the pin out of one side assuming it would be no big deal to feed it back through and tighten up the 5/8" nut. I never figured it would move forward and create a swear-invoking diatribe over 2 hours and still have it off by 1/4" over and over and over......

 

[GA_Boater]

Welcome aboard.

All ya gotta do is jiggle the outdrive up and down while pushing the pin into the free cylinder eye. There is always a little slop with a disconnected cylinder.

BTW - This thread has been inactive more than 90 days and should be read and not written in, like a library book. If you more questions, Please start a new thread.