Is winterizing the 470 REALLY that easy?

[Oshawapilot]

The marina my sister and BIL have paying a ton to winterize their 35' (twin 470) cruiser since they've owned it - the marina service people have been charging them the same as a freshwater engine for their winterizing - something like $150 per engine. Needless to say that's a whole lot of money for what seems to be simply pulling 2 drain plugs out. Easy money for them I guess....

So tomorrow we are going up to winterize the rest of the boat and we're going to do the engines at the same time.

I've done a ton of reading here over the years, as well as this evening, and it seems that from everything I've read, including the service manual screenshots that others have posted, the entire winterization process consists of the following:

1/ Pull heat exchanger drain plugs out from rear of heat exchangers, poke a paperclip or whatever to make sure no blockage and they drain the freshwater fully.

2/ Check coolant from closed loop engine side for proper 50/50 mix.

Done?

Obviously we are doing the other end of season service as well (draining the stern drives, etc), but my main concern is with regards to the engine winterizing. Is that REALLY it?

 

[Bt Doctur]

basically, Yes . That all there is for fresh water cooled motors.Some will flush the raw water side with the non-tox but not really necessary. Elbow drains with the raw water side of the heat exchanger on the 470 motors. After draining you can also blow it empty with a shop vac or compressor

 

[Oshawapilot]

Awesome. Yes, I did read some stories here of people who still wanted to blow non-tox antifreeze through the raw side of the 470 with muffs, but it seems unnecessary if everything gravity drains.

Can you clarify the "blow it empty" part? We will have both a shop vac and a compressor there for the plumbing system side of the winterization, so equipment isn't an issue.

Thanks!

 

[Bt Doctur]

depending on the heat exchanger design most are 3 compartments meaning the raw water passes thru the exchanger 3 times before it exists out the elbow .You could remove the end cover to drain also

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Oshawapilot]

Ok, pulling the entire end cap is just a single bolt on the rear of the exchanger (transom end) correct? If that's a method that offers a little more insurance that it drains right (vs the drain plug), I'm cool with that.

I'm presuming there's an O-Ring or a gasket in there? Will it survive the process, or is it a single use item that will need replacement come the spring?

As always, you're a great resource BT, much appreciation for your time.

 

[achris]

Ok, pulling the entire end cap is just a single bolt on the rear of the exchanger (transom end) correct?

Yes.

If that's a method that offers a little more insurance that it drains right (vs the drain plug), I'm cool with that.

I'm presuming there's an O-Ring or a gasket in there? Will it survive the process, or is it a single use item that will need replacement come the spring?

Usually just a rubber disc that acts as the gasket... Genuine merc number is 27-75450 for the 3" heat exchanger and 27-99960 for the 4"...

As always, you're a great resource BT, much appreciation for your time.

Chris.........

 

[Scott Danforth]

Dont forget the oil change and drive oil as well as pulling the drive for the annual inspection

 

[Oshawapilot]

Usually just a rubber disc that acts as the gasket... Genuine merc number is 27-75450 for the 3" heat exchanger and 27-99960 for the 4"...

Chris.........

Thanks Chris - and yes, I should have mentioned the forum as a whole is an excellent resource. . This alone will save them north of $300 today as the marina had been soaking them for a full raw water winterization on a set of closed loop engines.

I'll have him order a new gasket today if the old ones look crusty.

As for the drive oil, yeah, we'll be emptying that today as well. Found out this spring when we went to fill them that the marina failed to do that last fall as well.

One drive has what I believe to be a rattle in a U-joint so they will be paying to have that serviced/replaced (probably above both of our pay grades) over the winter, or more likely (considering we get a lot of snow here), in the spring.

 

[achris]

Use Merc high performance gear oil and fill from the bottom up...

Unis are super easy to change... If you YouTube, then ignore the videos telling you to either remove the yoke first and those telling you to break a tab of the retainer ring...

 

[Oshawapilot]

And it is done, that was indeed super easy. Thanks everyone.

Now, onto a new thread, since we found another issue when draining the drives.

 

[stonyloam]

Yes It is that easy! No need to pull the end cap, just the aft plug. Make sure when you pull it the water runs freely out. Been doing that for 30 years. Your power steering cooler should be in the vertical hose going to the exhaust elbow, and will drain when the exchanger drains.