Merc 5.7 Overheating 1988

Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
Hello everyone I'm back. Not sure if that's a good thing or not but hopefully to find a solution for me and future people. I have searched and seen a few things but I would like to pick and confirm my diagnosis before kicking out more BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand).

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Image is not my housing but a like kind.

I don't have a serial number its long gone on old valve covers that were trashed before I purchased the boat.


My Information:

1. Brand new rebuilt 5.7 pre vortec with fuel pump port but I closed it off with proper bracket and use an electric fuel pump mounted to front of motor so I'm thinking the motor is 1988 maybe 1986.

2. No T-Stat No Check balls they were removed (I think I need the check balls back in could maybe leave t-stat out)

3. New Lower unit Water pump

4. New motor water pump.

5. All water lines checked for clogs or collapse.

6. Intake gaskets have open front and rear ports (closed off small hole in metal lose off plate on intake gaskets)

7. Risers with laser temp 130ish both sides Temp

8. Exhaust manifolds 175ish Temp

9. Intake anywhere you hit it with laser 119 to 127 ish Temp

10. Laser temp at the thermostat housing beside the temp sensor 220 gauge reads 240

11. Large hose from motor water pump Hot as fire forgot the actual temp.

12. Hoses to Risers and risers cool to touch

13. Hoses to bottom of manifolds cool to touch

14. Inlet hose from out-drive cool to touch.

15. Good water flow out exhaust both sides at back boat and cool enough you could wash your hair in it and smell like exhaust

16. Rev engine over 2500 rpm it starts cooling back down.

17. run distance at 3000 rpm it heats back up to 200+ I shut down at 200 to try save the motor.

18. Stamp on the T-Stat housing is 47440 it has two hoses to Elbows, 2 hoses to exhaust manifold lowers and 1 hose to water pump.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,712
Take some pics of how the hoses were routed and post
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,506
2. No T-Stat No Check balls they were removed (I think I need the check balls back in could maybe leave t-stat out)

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,....... That's a Problem, right there,....

If yer system needs the check-balls, it's gonna over-heat at low speeds,.....

No motor should be run without the T-stat, in-place,......
The t-stat housin' on a boat motor is abit more complicated than on a car, though neither should be run without the t-stat,....
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
I keep trying to post pics but it wont let me keeps going back to "previously entered content was auto saved. Restore or Discard"
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
[No message]
 

Attachments

  • photo294704.jpg
    photo294704.jpg
    250.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo294705.jpg
    photo294705.jpg
    271.7 KB · Views: 0
  • photo294707.jpg
    photo294707.jpg
    17.4 KB · Views: 0
  • photo294708.jpg
    photo294708.jpg
    40.1 KB · Views: 0

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,712
You did need 3 post in order to post pics, maybe
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,712
Yes, Bondo has it, you need the check balls back in and a thermostat


Click image for larger version  Name:	Cooling Old Style.png Views:	2 Size:	343.8 KB ID:	10603624

You could do an upgrade but this would need to change some parts
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
You did need 3 post in order to post pics, maybe

It worked somehow finally. Maybe a Moderator seen my struggle. I know my wallet sees it. a Rebuilt 5.7 Marine $1579 plus break in stuff etc then I got another $2000 in trying to make it stop overheating after running it for a weekend. Testing it Saturday wouldnt you know I hit a stump had to replace lower unit this AM I ripped reverse out of other. OUCH
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
Sounds like my hunch was right then.

Check balls back in and Thermostat in addition.

I do wonder why on initial install of this motor it ran fine 25 minutes on a hose at 160 and now out blue it wont run 10 minutes on hose without getting hot.
 
Last edited:

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,506
I do wonder why on initial install of this motor it ran fine 25 minutes on a hose at 160 and now out blue it wont run 10 minutes on hose without getting hot.

Ayuh,..... I suppose ya could muff it, pull the in-comin' water line from the drive off the t-stat housin', 'n fire it up, to prove the impeller is Ok,.....
 
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
7
Ayuh,..... I suppose ya could muff it, pull the in-comin' water line from the drive off the t-stat housin', 'n fire it up, to prove the impeller is Ok,.....

Incoming water is ok. I had checked this before but I tested again to verify. I backed in the lake and pulled the hose from outdrive and it had a nice gush shooting out
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,111
13. Hoses to bottom of manifolds cool to touch

considering that is the water leaving the engine from the T stat it should be warm

17. run distance at 3000 rpm it heats back up to 200+ I shut down at 200 to try save the motor.

this can be caused by a leaking pump base sucking in hot exaust gas when on plane. drop the lower unit , apply muffs, see where it leaks
 
Top