Broken remote gear lube transom fitting

[Fettb]

well... I was doing a bellows job on my 2002 Four Winns Horizon 17 (4.3l alpha 1 gen 2), and I ran into the dreaded “busted plastic barb” for the gear lube.

this engine appears to be shoe horned into the hull and there is less than zero access to replace this fitting. I can’t even stick my phone in there to get an image it’s so tight. The word on the street is that this is an engine pull to get access.

i don’t want to pull an engine for a $20 part..... but I’m not certain on my options.

ive read on the forums that some people just plug the holes and run it as a sealed system like the gen 1’s operates. Is this a viable option or a bad idea? It seems like plugging it may cause a venting problem since the reservoir has a hot and cold level. If plugged, the drive could have the tendency to suck things (like water) in when cooling down.. I don’t want to bandaid problem a to create larger problem b!

all advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Bt Doctur]

Well, depending on the access to it , can you remove the power steering unit first for better access? If you dont want to pull the engine ,then remove the drive cut the oil hose just behind the gimbal housing , insert a plug/bolt/ rod etc into the hose and clamp
The drive pressure is not an issue, millions of Alpha`s running without a bottle just fine

 

[Fettb]

I thought the gen 1 alphas had a vent to prevent the pressure differential issues and the gen 2 used the bottle for this purpose? Am I incorrect?

 

[Bondo]

Am I incorrect?

Ayuh,.... You are,.... Alpha 1s are sealed units,....

Welcome Aboard,.....

Btw,..... Everything is Crammed into boats, everything is tough to get too,....
Fortunately, pullin' the motor is usually the Easy part of a repair,....

 

[jmarines]

This happened to me last season. I just plugged the hose and used it during the season. Once the season ended I used the down time to replace the fitting. I was able to remove my steering arm and was able to get to the fittimg.. that's after a few times cussing ..lol

 

[poconojoe]

Oh, I saw your title and I cringed! I was in the same predicament a couple years back. I also have a 4.3 and mine is a 2003 Bayliner 185 with the bench seat as verses a dog house.. My barb fitting was held in by an "E" clip on the inside of the transom. It wasn't easy, probably the hardest job I did on my boat. I was able to get my phone in there to take pictures. I was able to contort my body in there with a long thin screwdriver to get the clip off. When I bought the new part, I bought extra clips figuring I would drop a couple trying to install them. The clips are stainless so you can't use a magnet. Someone suggested soldering the clip to a screwdriver, but I couldn't get the solder to stick to the stainless. I was only able to fit one arm in there. I finally got the clip caught after a few tries and was able to squeeze it into place with long needle nose pliers. Not fun! Why the !@#$%& do they make those out of plastic?????
As BT suggested, you can disconnect the power steering arm for better access. I didn't do that.
Good luck. Hope you get it worked out.

 

[poconojoe]

Here's my post...

Wait....wrong post.....sorry

 

[harringtondav]

The older Alphas w/o the lube monitor bottle have a dipstick in the top cover of the out drive. You can run a lube monitor boat w/o the reservoir, but you're left guessing about your lube level. If your O/D seals are good, no problem. Else could be pricey.

 

[harringtondav]

...also, the lube monitor Alphas are a sealed system, assuming the lube bottle cap is tight. The cap has a check valve that allows a warm/hot drive to pressurize. This forces lube out into the water through any iffy seals. When the drive cools, that rubber check valve allows air to enter the bottle, and the lube level drops. All cool. No water in the drive, just lube. The sealing in older and lube monitor drives is the same. All wet shaft seals are double, with lips reversed to keep oil in, water out. Except for the single 26-82394 seal on the gear end yoke. This seal keeps the drive pressurized. In the older Alphas it allowed air to enter the cooling, and negative pressure drive vs. water from other wet seals. So the lube level dropped, and the dipstick indicated this. Apparently the check valve in the lube bottle cap opens before this seal sucks air. When I find lube in my drive shaft bellows, and oily U joints, I know it's time for a re-seal job.

 

[Fettb]

Wow, thanks everyone for the warm welcome and helpful responses! I’m thinking I will plug the tube and plan an engine pull this fall.