Alpha 1 gen 1 stuck?

[i_build]

I removed all 6 bolts and trim rods... it's is in forward but I can't get it off. There seems to be 2 slots on the sides but I broke the tip of of both my heavy Flathead screwdrivers trying to pry it off evenly. Prior owner used a gasket sealant so I used a utility knife to cut most of it away. I've tried raising and dropping it a number of times as well. If there's any tips I would appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[thumpar]

Jam a piece of wood in the top and hook the rams back up to use them to push the drive off. You may pull the gimbal bearing out with it.

 

[Bt Doctur]

You should be arrested for "illegal use of a screwdriver" You NEVER pry anything especially a drive unless you have a very large wallet.
Per thumper, place a block of wood between the upper drive and transom and use the trim rams to force the drive off the boat CAREFULLY AND SLOW a little bit at a time increasing the wood each time.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO IT ALL AT ONCE

 

[i_build]

4 split blocks later I have about an 8th of an inch Gap between the drive and Bell housing. I saw a YouTube video where someone cut a piece of metal bracket but I am a bit concerned that it might cause damage with that approach but im not sure what my options are other than keep trying the wood.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Use a piece of Oak or find a couple of pieces of hardwood flooring and make sure its in full fwd. Some pallets use swamp oak that is very tough too The shift shaft shoes must be in a straight line, bow to stern.

 

[i_build]

My trim Rams weren't strong enough to break the drive free but I got it using a jack and a cut piece of metal actually an extension.

Here's my video of what I did

https://youtu.be/oUnyTwkiTKY

 

[Bondo]

So,.... Where was it hung up,..?? Why did it come off so hard,..??

How much damage did ya cause pullin' it,..??

Looks like ya ruined the bellhousin',....

 

[i_build]

Other than the edges on the 2 recessed points on the bell housing that I damaged through my illegal use of screwdrivers it seemed to come off clean. Every one of the bolts was corroded. The gimbal bearing stayed in place and it appears like the ujoint bellows was in tact as there was no rust to be found and everything was greased well. I did see the coupler in tact through the gimbal bearing and the spline and mating areas looked clean no rust or corrosion. At this point im assuming there corrosion on those bolts and potential misalignment however I have not checked the alignment yet. I used an entire can of pb blaster on those bolts with the drive tilted up but it didn't get through as they were dry and completely chalky. Will post more pics when I get home from work.

 

[thumpar]

There is not supposed to be a recessed spot there. It should be flat edges.

 

[i_build]

[No message]

 

[Bondo]

At this point im assuming there corrosion on those bolts. I used an entire can of pb blaster on those bolts with the drive tilted up but it didn't get through as they were dry and completely chalky.

Ayuh,.... After ya clean up the studs, 'n gasket surfaces, when ya put on the gasket, 'n o-rings,....
Paint the studs with Perfect Seal, or Permatex form-a-gasket #3 sealant,.....
If not that, Slather the studs with Grease,....
Then install the drive,.....

Perfect Seal / Permatex #3 is what I use for never-seize,....
It took a few years, 'n some Tests of my own, but I came 'round to Don S's creedo of only Perfect Seal, 'n Never, ever-seize,...

 

[Lou C]

Agree 100% with Bondo, Ive been using the OMC equivalent of perfect seal on all of the outdrive bolts n gaskets as well as thermostst housing gaskets and bolts and it works great. Even on a drive that's been in the brine for 6 months. In fact this is what OMC recommends in their shop manual; they never recommended anti seize...
You can also use Permatex Aviation..

 

[i_build]

Since I have a combination of parts going here with an alpha 1 drive slapped onto this... What do I use to remove these from the gimbal ring to get my bell housing off?

 

[hoowahfun]

If not that, Slather the studs with Grease,....

I like to use brake caliper grease for this kind of thing. Got it in a jar with a brush formed to the lid from the local part store. It would take a lifetime of brake changes to go through it so I started using it as anti-seize when I didn't have any laying around.

BTW, what's the fatal flaw you see in anti-seize that you recommend against it (as far as boats are concerned)?

 

[Rick Stephens]

BTW, what's the fatal flaw you see in anti-seize that you recommend against it (as far as boats are concerned)?

Problem is NvrSeaze uses suspended aluminum whilch electrolysis causes issue with in water. Also aluminum is not so good a lubricant around aluminum parts. It galls and causes more problems than it solves.

 

[i_build]

Any information regarding how to remove the hinge pins posted in the pic? I think they are pre-alpha.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... MC-1s have a 1/4" hole tapped into the center, 'n ya use a slide-hammer to remove 'em,....

Later models have a 1/2" 12-pt.hex ya put a 1/2" allen key into, 'n turn 'em out,...

There's so much corrosion on yer's, I can't tell what ya got,.....

 

[hoowahfun]

Problem is NvrSeaze uses suspended aluminum whilch electrolysis causes issue with in water. Also aluminum is not so good a lubricant around aluminum parts. It galls and causes more problems than it solves.

Thanks, Rick. That's good to know. I never thought to look at what was actually in that stuff.

 

[Lou C]

For one thing, none of the OEMs that I know of ever recommended anti seize in that application, they recommended gasket sealers. The problem with anti seize is that it can cause galvanic corrosion with aluminum fittings and it does not seal out moisture like gasket sealers do. Anti seize is OK in a dry application, as long as it does not have copper in it if you are using it with aluminum parts. In the OMC shop manual I've been using for years, it is recommended to use the gasket sealer on all the bolts on the outdrive, on the thermostat housing, cyl head bolts, intake bolts etc. Its great stuff and really eliminates seizing of bolts esp in salt water applications.....

 

[i_build]

Bondo the hinge pins are threaded and if you zoom down on the pic there's a small hole on the face of the pin off center. I tried to search for the special tool number in the manual and I didn't even get 1 hit. What tool do I need our can I use to remove those pins? It's definitely not the Allen key or the later model pin it's completely round and threaded all the way back to where it bottoms out..

Edit....I'll Fab up a puller for it. I see the illustration of the tool in the seloc.