3.0 Freeze Damage

bjarnold1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 12, 2005
Messages
136
I'm in the market for a newer boat and the area where I live is prone to hard freezes for extended periods. I am leaning towards a 3.0 MerCruiser as it's mostly going to be used for fishing and don't need a lot of power. Is the side of the block under the manifold the most common place where the block would crack?
 

Bondo

Moderator
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Apr 17, 2002
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70,513
Ayuh,.... That's is a common spot, but not the only place,....

Why,..??
 

ThomW

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 8, 2016
Messages
615
If your thinking about buying a boat with a 3.0, wait until spring, run it on a hose with the earmuffs, and watch the motor. If she is leaking and spraying outta the block....don't buy it! Freezing can cause many different problems to many parts. For example, if the lower unit seals are going, and there is water in the gear lube...when it gets cold...can be issues for the lower unit. Frost plugs can pop out. If your worried at all about damage, wait until you can see it run!
 

bjarnold1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Nov 12, 2005
Messages
136
I'm looking to spend $6000-$10,000 for the boat and before I do I would like to make sure I don't miss something while inspecting it
 

Bondo

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I'm looking to spend $6000-$10,000 for the boat and before I do I would like to make sure I don't miss something while inspecting it

Ayuh,.... Then wait til Spring, when you can take it for a shake-down cruise,.....
Or,...
Hire a Surveyor to access it's overall condition,...

Yer questions just can't be answered by "Lookin' at it",....
It'll need a full diagnostic goin' over,....
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Bondo nails it. If you are going to spend $6k and up, then take your time. $6k is getting into high end for a used boat with a 3.0L. The 3.0L is typically the entry level offering for most boat manufacturers. You can find some great deals in that market as people tend to move up to bigger boats with more horses. You also find a lot of neglect, often just from ignorance of the newbie boat owner or financially limited owner who didn't understand how much it costs to own and maintain a boat.

You will not have trouble in the spring finding nice boats in your price range. Make sure the structure is sound is even more important consideration that whether the motor is perfect. Motors are very easy fix, rotten transom or stringers are the spendy fixes.

Most important of all is defining your boat layout for a fishing rig. Most 3.0L IO boat models are runabouts and not all that useful, overall, as a fishing barge. Access across the rear of the boat is severely limited, especially by the doghouse cover over the motor. Side rail space is restricted by stylish design made to look good. I converted a 3.0L runabout style boat to a fishing boat, and it suits fine for the type of fishing I do. BUT, it would have been a step up in usability if I had chosen an outboard. The biggest PITA is working the back of the boat with downriggers on both sides and a trolling motor needing tending in one corner at the same time. Scrambling around the doghouse to reset the tiller, while trying to get downriggers set to correct depth, is a monkey fight. I have found that my boat is really only a 2 person fishing craft unless one person stays at the helm and keeps the heck out of the way of the two handling rods and nets. It is a joy cruising to and from the fishing grounds at speed. The design keeps the wind down and really comfortable reclining chairs make for a comfortable day for the wife and I. If I did it again, I'd go an outboard in a second. My initial reason for buying the IO was I knew I could work on it. My informed reason for considering them now, is I know I could work on an outboard too. Outboards cost more, but serve the task better, IMHO.
 

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Bt Doctur

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Aug 29, 2004
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19,111
And there is nothing wrong with a good 45-1 hr test run too
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
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Mar 10, 2016
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8,309
Yeah. Most common place to crack. Many have choddy repairs using devcon ! Haha. Seem to work just fine.
 

devildogae

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jan 14, 2017
Messages
147
My first boat had freeze damage crack on the manifold, didn't see it until I took the manifold off during a rebuild.
 

Grub54891

Vice Admiral
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Jun 17, 2012
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5,911
Mine was cracked under the manifold along the block, and all the core plugs were blown out. That is how I got it cheap. Figured I'd put in core plugs, repair the crack and give it a try. 4 years later she's still running like a champ! Sometimes ya get lucky,
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Several years ago, I replaced a 3.0L engine (long-block) in a friends boat. The cracks weren't all that obvious so we pressure checked it.

The only reliable way to ensure that there are no cracks if you suspect freeze damage, is to pressure check the block and head with compressed air.
 

bjarnold1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 12, 2005
Messages
136
I found a good deal on a like new 2007 Bayliner 175 that had been garaged most of it's life. The owner had a shop winterize it last year and showed me the receipt. The water hoses were disconnected with anti-freeze in them and the two blue drain hoses were also disconnected. I ran the boat and it runs smooth and noticed no water leaks
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
Messages
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I ran the boat and it runs smooth and noticed no water leaks
If you're going to run the engine solely to check for leaks, it must be put in the water (lake etc) , and operated at normal cruise speed (or higher) long enough to reach maximum operating temperature.

Just running it at idle using a flush adapter will normally not reveal leaks due to block cracks if they exist.
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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If you're going to run the engine solely to check for leaks, it must be put in the water (lake etc) , and operated at normal cruise speed (or higher) long enough to reach maximum operating temperature.

Just running it at idle using a flush adapter will normally not reveal leaks due to block cracks if they exist.

If you can test drive it, you will be many times as confident that it works right. My last boat purchase had a problem in the outdrive that would always prevent shifting after running it long enough to get warm. It was perfect on land or eon a short cruise. In the end it cost me an additional $1300 to purchase a new outdrive. Admittedly, that was just an additional cost of buying the boat. If I had run the boat longer than the 20 minute cruise I put it through, it would have been apparent and given me the opportunity to adjust my offer.

Not saying there is anything wrong with your choice of boat. Due diligence requires a lake test.
 

Racerjoe

Cadet
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
18
Watch for broken starter bolts. I have had 2 break on s pontoon with 3.0..... (and they sre way way way down there).. check the tightness 2x per year now. They can be broken and still crank but generally turns over slow and is a PITA to repair (until you learn the easy way.... ha) I need yo start selling a reoair kit...:). Good luck with the 3.0 mine has been a good one... it keeps chugging along.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,499
If you have broken starter bolts, most likely you have manifold and elbow issues which lead to hydrolocking.

Boat motors are murdered by lack of maintenance
 
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