Removing an MC-1 outdrive retainer

[SHickey]

Hello,

I need to change the drive shaft oil seal on my 1976 Mercruiser 140 MC-1 outdrive. I was wondering how difficult it will be to remove the bearing retainer from the upper drive. I will be receiving the retainer wrench shortly but I am a little concerned with removing the retainer after all these years. Should I apply heat to the old retainer to help it loosen up?? and should I spray some blaster along the threads??

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

SH

 

[Bt Doctur]

Best way if the unit is more than 2 years old is to drill 2 3/8ths inch holes thru it to the SS lock plate.
chip out the small section and then remove the remaining section.

 

[SHickey]

Yes, I have removed oil seals before with the method you just described. I was wondering how difficult the bearing retainer nut will be to remove since it probably not been removed or loosened for at least 10 years.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Close to impossible, Quicker and easier for me and the new ring is not a deal breaker.

 

[SHickey]

Wow
So it is advisable to drill out the old retainer and remove it piece by piece instead of trying to unscrew it with the retainer wrench. I do have another retainer coming with the oil seal and some other parts. So I can use the new retainer wrench on the new retainer when I put the mess together.

Thanks for the advice and I'll let the forum know how it all worked out.

SH

 

[muc]

i think Bt Doctor is talking about the lower retainer by the prop shaft and SHickey is asking about the retainer by the u-joints.
the retainer by the u-joints will usually unscrew with just a few taps from a dead blow hammer on the special wrench. If its stuck heat the housing not the retainer.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Your right , Going blind and dumb,thought it was the carrier/propshaft seal. let me get a link

 

[Bt Doctur]

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6A3R3.PDF#[0,{%22name%22:%22XYZ%22},-7,792,1]

 

[Bt Doctur]

If you can remove the gearset BY HAND you just tighten the nut down untill tight/torqued. on reassembly.
If you need a tool to separate the gear from the yoke you need to use the "rolling torque" method

 

[kenny nunez]

Another thing regarding this repair, be sure that the shims are accounted for, they either come out with the gear set or stay in the housing. The washer under the lock nut is marked “NUT” and is slightly convexed and a drop of Lock tite will not hurt. If the yoke seal surface is rusted or pitted it can be repaired with a Speedy Sleeve or replace the yoke. Pressure test after assembly to 10-15 lbs.

 

[SHickey]

Wow

Thank you all for the information. I guess I needed to be more specific about my original problem which was outdrive oil found in the bellows after I removed the OD for the winter. It was suggested I replace the yoke oil seal to prevent the OD oil from leaking into the bellows. I just was not sure how difficult this repair would be especially the need for removing the yoke retainer which to my knowledge has never been removed.

The link provided is priceless and seems to explain the process far better than the old manual I have.

Thanks again all for the knowledge contributions.

 

[Faztbullet]

Yoke likely has groove cut in it ..If in my shop it would get all new seals since its coming apart and a new yoke and u-joints.

 

[SHickey]

Thanks Faztbullet for your outdrive rebuilding experience.

It always amazes me how a seemly simple repair can become a complicated repair job for a beginner repair newbie (like myself). Hopefully I can remove the gearset by hand and examine the yoke to see if it needs to be replaced or possibly use a speedy sleeve (not sure where I could get one of those or if the oil seal I received would fit the newly sleeved yoke) and then make sure all of the shims and reassembly is done correctly so that I don't ruin this old OD when it gets reinstalled on my boat and tested in the driveway.

Thanks again for all of the information and I will share how I made out with this repair.