Corsa Exhaust Issue

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Juttmk

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I've been fighting an issue with the dumps not coming on when the switch is toggled. Is there any issue with just using a wire tie to keep the dumps open at all times?
 

Mad Props

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Not sure how those things work really, but I'm guessing there are servo motors that make the flaps move open and closed to select thru leg or thru hull. If the flaps are restricted and the servo is trying to close it, it may burn up the servo motors or at least make it lose its position feedback.
 

QBhoy

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When the exhausts are open, The actuators rely on a power feed to them constantly.
Perhaps something to look at would be;
With the engine running, watch the volt gauge and press the switch. If the voltage drops then I'd think gets is power going to the actuators and perhaps there is a mechanical restriction stopping the flaps open. They are known for sticking.
I would also try disconnecting the mechanical flaps from the actuators and see if you can move them by hand (with engine off) if you can, surely it's the motor.
Best of luck....
 

alldodge

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Is there any issue with just using a wire tie to keep the dumps open at all times?

Yes you can do that.

Corsa uses a high initial current to actuate the solenoid, and a low current used to keep them held open. They used 4 wire solenoids until a few years ago and then went to 3 wire type. Mine was doing the same as yours (4 wire) and finally picked up a set of 3 wire to fix the issue.
 

Juttmk

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Just take a zip tie and pull the actuator all the way in? My only concern with doing that is the chance of water bypass on the flappers and getting into the exhaust valves on the fresh engine.

When I hook up the toggle switch and flip the switch the gauge clusters peg and the voltage drops to zero on the battery display. When I leave the outbound side disconnected and flip the switch It doesn't peg my gauges or get hot. I ran a wire from spade connector 85 on relay 1 to the outbound side of the switch and it ohm out @ 0. I'm not sure if this is the correct procedure or not, but the outbound side of the switch is getting hot when the gauge cluster pegs.
 

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alldodge

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You have ones which are real old style. That said your wiring diagram will work IF everything is working correctly and no components are shorted out.

fetch


Pins 85 and 86 are the relay coils and are for signal control and not load. Main loads go thru 87 and 30

The reason I said there is no issue with running them open always is with the knowledge that you have your boat set up so back wash will not make it up thru the tips to the motor. Just like if they were working great, and IF you had to stop quickly, your not going to be thinking about turning your exhaust OFF before stopping.
 

Juttmk

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I will disconnect 85 and flip the switch on and see what happens.
 

Juttmk

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Just disconnected 85 from both relays and pulled the plugs from both solenoids. Gauges dropped and switch wires got hot instantly
 

roadking951

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Yes you can do that.

Corsa uses a high initial current to actuate the solenoid, and a low current used to keep them held open. They used 4 wire solenoids until a few years ago and then went to 3 wire type. Mine was doing the same as yours (4 wire) and finally picked up a set of 3 wire to fix the issue.
I have a problem like that do you know where I can find out what each wire is for
 
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