Winterizing & fogging 1994 4.3LX with Alpha One

[Patrick_L]

Hi fellas ! ( or ladies )

1) Am I really better off with Quicksilver Storage & Seal vs. Sta-bil fogging oil ?
2) This season so far, engine's been run for about 3-4 hours total ( rest was just floatin' around )
- do i need to flush and replace gear lube ?
- do i need to replace fuel filter ? ( was changed in June )

 

[Rick Stephens]

I wouldn't fog it. Humble opinion: waste of money to fog it and park your boat for a few months. I don't think you need to 'flush' gear lube ever. Arguable whether you change it after a few hours of use. Any water in the oil can cause acid formation which can etch parts. That's the severe conservative answer. However, as long as your outdrive is sealed up well, there isn't much in the way of water to cause much if any acids. If your fuel tank is perfectly clean, so's the filter. If not, cheaper than a carb rebuild to swap the filter out.

 

[Patrick_L]

It will be put away in a heated storage for about 5 months ( chicago winter ).

Fuel: I don't know how clean it is. I added Quicksilver stabilizer to 3/4 full tank of gas
Fogging: I gave it 3 quick sprays until engine stalled out - might just return it then
Gear lube: not sure how it is either ( milky or not ). I guess one way to find out is to drain a little ?

Thanks Rick

 

[Bondo]

Gear lube: not sure how it is either ( milky or not ). I guess one way to find out is to drain a little ?

Ayuh,...... Atleast take a sample from the drain plug,....

Water is heavier than oil, so any water will be at the drain plug,....

 

[Rick Stephens]

I would pull the bottom plug like Bondo recommended, leave the top one in. The lube that dribbles out should look perfect, as if new. Let it drip into a clear jar and inspect the magnet on the plug.

I would change the fuel filter since you don't know tank condition. Pour it out into a clear glass container and see if there is any dirt or if anything separates. I had my fuel sender out this last winter so I was able to inspect the bottom and know my tank is spotless. If you don't know, keep checkin filter residue until you are certain nothing is being caught by the filter. Cheaper than a carb rebuild. Lots cheaper than walkin back up river.

 

[Patrick_L]

Thanks fellas ! I already put it away for storage. Can this be done before new season in spring ? I put stabilizer in it but did not change the fuel filter ( yet at least ).

 

[Scott06]

Gear lube I would check before it freezes on the off chance there is water in it. My grandfather told me a story of picking up an outboard that was on the floor in his shed one spring only to have the gear case fall into pieces- enough water in the gear lube and he didn't change it in the fall. Obviously and extreme example but made an impression on me.

 

[Patrick_L]

I would check before it freezes on the off chance there is water in it.

It will be put away in a heated storage but yeah it wouldn't hurt to look regardless. I will see if they let me in there to do that.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Heated storage? My "winterization" would consist of dropping the drive, pulling the battery and taking the keys out. Then again, other than draining the engine, that's about all I do...and I leave my outside for 6 mos here in Wisconsin! I wouldn't fog the engine and simply replace the fuel filter next spring. Don't sweat the drive either...

 

[Patrick_L]

Oshkosh1

Easy enough ! I drained all water anyway and refilled it with antifreeze in case they lost power or something. Negative terminals are unhooked and key is in the box. Patiently waiting until warm days arrive again

 

[NHGuy]

Don't do the anti freeze any more. Just get the engine empty. It 's especially important to poke a coathanger or something in the lower block drains to break up any scale that can retain cooling water.

 

[JoLin]

Don't do the anti freeze any more. Just get the engine empty. It 's especially important to poke a coathanger or something in the lower block drains to break up any scale that can retain cooling water.

I'm going to disagree only because a lot of rust and junk came out of my starboard (2003) engine this year. Took some effort to clear the block drains. For the first time, I filled the blocks with the AF that has corrosion inhibitors in it. I plan to do that from now on.

If the OP boats in fresh water corrosion might not be an issue.

My .02