Vibration issue after engine replacement on MC1 drive to 351W only under throttle

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
The History:
Original setup was 1975 Mercruiser 888 with Ford 302. 888 outdrive leg is good old MC-1. The old engine was high on hours and ready for rebuild or replacement. Boat ran smoothly before old 302 was removed. Sourced a low mileage early-seventies Ford 351W (automatic) from a Ford Galaxy 500 that had been tuned for a race setup but never really used. Seemed like a good upgrade since Mercruiser in 1975 also offered the "233" which was same outdrive but with the 351W engine. Same gear ratio as well.

The Symptoms:
Once the new engine was installed the engine hums away. Sounds and feels great. No vibration present at idle. When increasing speed and rpms, there is a vibration that is felt in the floor of the boat that did not exist with old engine. The vibration increases with throttle increase to WOT and is quite noticeable.

Important Details:
- 2 years before engine replacement stringers and transom were replaced and West Epoxy system was used so boat structure is fine.
- The only engine balance conversion performed was using the old 302 flywheel on the new engine since it had a flex-plate. A custom engine shop took the flex-plate and balanced the original 302 flywheel to match the balance of the flex-plate. So theoretically, the engine should be in balance. All 70's 302 and 351's used same 28oz flywheel. Not sure if the new engine had previously been re-balanced to an "internal balance", but if it had, the balancing performed by the mechanic should have addressed this.
- We are aware of the different firing order in the 351W from the 302. Firing order is correctly wired on new 351W.
- Outdrive has been reasonably serviced over the years. No obvious concerns of neglect here.

Unknowns:
- I do not know if trimming up or down or steering left to right affects vibration. Will test when the lakes melt.
- Do not know last time gimbal bearing was replaced.
- Have not pulled the drive yet.

Question:
I want to start troubleshooting this now while I have a lot of time on my hands. I am in Alberta, so our lakes are still frozen. I am looking for you guy's input on what the most important things to check first and in what order. At this point, they need to be things that do not require a lake test. I do have muffs though. I want to do a good service on the outdrive using a transom seal kit (bellows, gimbal bearing, etc). I also want to replace the shift assembly with the new redesigned kit and service the water pump impeller and seals. However, I don't want to pump much money into this 40 year old outdrive if its ultimately something major like gears. If that is the case, I'm guessing I'd be better off to look for a rebuilt Alpha drive?

So fire away at your thoughts on where to start and if there is something blatantly obvious about where this vibration could be coming from.
 
Last edited:

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
I also should note that I have spend the last 3 hours reading through all the threads in this forum about "vibration". I have come up with my own list of possible causes (see below). This list is HUGE! I need help narrowing it down to a starting point and inspecting components without randomly replacing things at this point.

From my reading the 3 places I want to start are:

1. Pull drive and check engine alignment
2. Check gimbal bearing. (What should I look for? I may be willing to replace the gimbal ring if you guys think that is a good place to start.)
3. Inspect U-Joints. (Any advice on what to inspect would be great. If they do need replacing, can I get a rebuild kit or do I need to replace them entirely?)

My entire list of possibilities:
  • If O-ring fails on drive shaft where it connects to engine coupler, grease will come out and cause vibration from imbalance
  • Out of balance broken or warped prop (replace prop). **But it was fine before engine upgrade
  • Old harmonic balancer not replaced/re-balanced with flywheel
  • Gimbal bearing
  • U-joints/u-joints bearings
  • Timing belt issue (probably not - vibration doesn't exist at idle)
  • Distributor firing order - we are sure this is correct. And again...engine is smooth at idle.
  • U-joints and gimbal properly greased
  • Gear oil low
  • Loose trim tab
  • Insufficient grease in engine coupler
  • Flywheel/coupler not tight enough –must use Loctite
 
Last edited:

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,513
- Have not pulled the drive yet.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... How'd ya pull, 'n replace the motor with the drive on, as step #1 is to pull the drive,..??

The rear motor mounts are designed that the motor sets straight down onto 'em,....
'n of course, ya can't align the motor, with the drive in place,....

Start by pullin' the drive,....
Get an alignment bar, 'n check the alignment,...
Check that the rear mounts weren't disturbed durin' the install,....
Check the drive's input shaft, to be sure ya didn't bend it,....
'n run through the spark plug wire installation for the right order, Again,....
Old harmonic balancer not replaced/re-balanced with flywheel
I don't do Fords, but that may well be an Issue,....

The gimbel bearin', if bad will feel gritty,....
U-joints, yer lookin' for slop or play,....
'n you should know, yer motor don't Have a timin' belt,....
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722

Once the new engine was installed the engine hums away. Sounds and feels great. No vibration present at idle. When increasing speed and rpms, there is a vibration that is felt in the floor of the boat that did not exist with old engine. The vibration increases with throttle increase to WOT and is quite noticeable.

- The only engine balance conversion performed was using the old 302 flywheel on the new engine since it had a flex-plate. A custom engine shop took the flex-plate and balanced the original 302 flywheel to match the balance of the flex-plate. So theoretically, the engine should be in balance. All 70's 302 and 351's used same 28oz flywheel. Not sure if the new engine had previously been re-balanced to an "internal balance", but if it had, the balancing performed by the mechanic should have addressed this.
- We are aware of the different firing order in the 351W from the 302. Firing order is correctly wired on new 351W.
-.

If you have vibrations with the drive removed, then your issue is the motor balancing.

Have you run the motor without the drive on?
 

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
Clarification on a few things. The boat was formerly my uncle's. He did the engine change. When I said the drive hasn't been pulled yet, I meant that I have not pulled the drive and started my own troubleshooting yet. My uncle will be helping me with things.

AllDodge...the vibrations at throttle increase happened in the water (reported to me by my uncle). When I pull the drive, how should I connect water hose? There is a separated cooling system via heat exchanger. Is there a max RPM's I need to watch when testing on trailer with drive removed and hose hooked up? I recall reading somewhere to not go very high on RPM's with a hose attached.

Regarding U-joints, if they are sloppy, can rebuild them or do I need to buy all new joints?
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,513
Regarding U-joints, if they are sloppy, can rebuild them or do I need to buy all new joints?

Ayuh,.... The "Rebuild" is like any other,...

Ya take the u-joint outa the double cardan yokes, 'n check the wear on the cross bearin's,....
The U-joint is the cross bearin', with the needles, 'n caps,... They're what gets replaced,...

The double cardan yokes, if not worn, are reused, to Rebuild the entire assembly,.....
When I pull the drive, how should I connect water hose?

Find the hose comin' from the drive, at the exchanger, 'n attach the garden hose there,.....

Wildly revin' a motor with no load does nothin', 'n proves nothin',...
Idle to 2500/ 3000 rpms will tell ya everything ya need to know,.....
'n I wouldn't run it at 3 grand all that long either,...
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
I take it because you said "heat exchanger" you have closed cooling with and have an external seawater pump (item 11) that is belt driven. If this is the case connect you water hose directly to the seawater pump inlet, or attach the hose somehow to the drive bell housing inlet hose.
Ford 888 closed cooling.jpg

Now if you don't have the belt driven pump then the hose coming from the drive should connect to the heat exchanger. Just connect the hose directly to it.

If belt driven pump is being used, don't exceed 1800 rpm, if belt driven pump is not used you can rev the engine to full rpm but only for short spurts. Basically the garden hose does not supply enough water to keep the impeller wet nor enough water to keep engine cool
 

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
No Title

I take it because you said "heat exchanger" you have closed cooling with and have an external seawater pump (item 11) that is belt driven. If this is the case connect you water hose directly to the seawater pump inlet, or attach the hose somehow to the drive bell housing inlet hose.

Now if you don't have the belt driven pump then the hose coming from the drive should connect to the heat exchanger. Just connect the hose directly to it.

If belt driven pump is being used, don't exceed 1800 rpm, if belt driven pump is not used you can rev the engine to full rpm but only for short spurts. Basically the garden hose does not supply enough water to keep the impeller wet nor enough water to keep engine cool

AllDodge, thanks so much. This is very helpful. Great diagram...I've not found one so clear online. Yes...this looks like my closed cooling system. The boat is in storage right now so I can't go look but I do have a few pics from last month. See below. I can't see from the pic, can you tell if there is a belt driven pump? Do some not have the belt pump? If there is a belt pump, does it work in tandem with the impeller/pump in the drive or is the drive pump just redundant in this case? Forgive my questions here...I am handy, but just learning all this marine systems stuff!
 

Attachments

  • photo238040.jpg
    photo238040.jpg
    332.2 KB · Views: 0

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
Appears (from my view point) you have only one belt and it is used for water pump and alternator. Alternator appears to be in lower left corner. I would guess from the pic that you don't have a belt driven pump and the water intake from the drive is directly above the Alt but behind the exchanger or to one side alt.jpg

Edit: Just look for the hose coming from the drive to the motor and connect hose to it there
 
Last edited:

oldsub86

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 9, 2008
Messages
311
What did you use for the flywheel?
I think Ford motors are externally balanced.
 

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
What did you use for the flywheel?
I think Ford motors are externally balanced.
As posted, they used the original flywheel that came off the original Ford 302 which was an externally balanced 28 oz flywheel. The shop took that flywheel and matched its balancing to the flexplate that came off the new 351W. So yes, it should be all balanced.
 

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
So far it seems you guys agree that I need to isolate if the vibration is coming from engine (likely balance issue or mounts) or from the outdrive.

If it is the outdrive, I should check alignement, u-joints and gimbal bearing. If it is none of those things on the outdrive, what else could it be? Would gears in lower unit cause vibration?

Bondo and AllDodge...your wisdom?

Also:
Wildly revin' a motor with no load does nothin', 'n proves nothin',...
Idle to 2500/ 3000 rpms will tell ya everything ya need to know,.....
'n I wouldn't run it at 3 grand all that long either,...

I know we have no way of knowing this really, but are vibrations generally only seen with load as you mentioned? What are the chances that the vibration will present in the driveway with leg on or off?
 
Last edited:

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,722
If it's not the drive then it's the motor. Run the rpm up 2500/3500 for 10 to 20 seconds or so then idle down to cool the motor back down. Being a closed system there should be no issue and if it's the motor the vibration would be noticed
 

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
Just wanted to post a follow up on this. I took the leg apart and replaced the water pump, bellows, gimbal bearing, lower shift cable, shift shaft bushing, and lubed everything up. Got an alignment tool and it looks good. Got her on the water and had a bad alternator. Had it rebuilt and test 2 went great...no vibration at all!

I am getting some water in the bilge...need to figure out where from, I suspect the old gasket under the transom plate. Bellows look good.

Also so a very slight rubber/electrical smell. I'm thinking that may just crud burning off the block.

Tach is way high but engine just purrs. Posted a new thread about that issue in prop area.
 
Last edited:

utskicat

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Dec 15, 2015
Messages
41
So the leak turned out to be a rotten transom. Engine is in shop getting pulled then off to get new transom. I'm suspecting the burning rubber smell is the coupler...its original. Going to replace it while engibe's out.
 
Top