60hp evinrude SLOW

New2evinrude

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Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
6
I have a 1992 60hp Evinrude that ive been trying to get up and running.

1. Wouldnt crank, replaced starter...fixed problem.
2. Intermittent spark / No spark on #2....replaced power pack...fixed problem.
3. After it runs on the water for about 3-5 min's, it loses power and seems to go into S.L.O.W. mode...replaced thermostat and impeller...DID NOT fix problem.
********** The Cooling Bypass Was Done Correctly A Long Time Ago ***********

I dont know exactly what the RPM's are because i do not trust my tach, since it shows a reading when the boat is turned off...although it seems pretty accurate while running...im just guessing. Ive yet to run it completely wide open, but going pretty fast tach would show 4000rpm at what i considered a pretty good speed...would take it up to 5000 as well for testing purposes, but never wide open....then when it loses power it wont really go past 2000rpm. Turn the boat off for about 5 or 10 minutes, then it will go again for a few minutes before you lose power again.

We tried unplugging the temp sensor (the wire right beside the thermostat) but there wasnt really any change in the situation.

Also, i meant to put the boat in neutral and see if it would rev up when ever we would lose power, but i didnt think of it at the time.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Is it the temp sensor? Is there another sensor it could be?

Thanks
justin
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
That engine came from the factory with the SLOW warning system. It decreases engine rpm's when it thinks it's overheating so that the powerhead is not damaged. Unplugging the overheat sensor wire should disable the power pack-rpm limiting and let the engine run full (normal) rpm's. Each time you turn the key to off, it will reset the SLOW system and permit high rpm operation again-for a brief period. It's not a good idea to rev the engine in neutral for testing purposes. It's possible that you have a fuel delivery problem. The engine may be consuming more fuel than the pump can supply-esp at higher rpm's. Do a test to eliminate this possibility: when the engine starts to slow down, have a buddy constantly prime the fuel hose bulb. When this is done, it will force extra fuel into the carbs. If the engine runs fine at WOT rpm's as long as you constantly prime the fuel hose bulb, you have fuel restriction, or, possibly-a weak fuel pump.
 

New2evinrude

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Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
6
Well, i just got back from testing it while pumping the bulb once it went into what i believe to be S.L.O.W mode....no effect. I even disconnected the tan wire coming from the power pack again. Turned it off, started it back up with the tan wire disconnected and it still would not go over 2000 rpm's. This is the most puzzling part of the whole affair.

It ran good for about...7-10 minutes i would say...which is about what it does every time i take it out.

Still accepting suggestions at this time. =)
 

woody66912

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 12, 2008
Messages
690
Put a timing light on it, not to time it but to see what the spark pattern looks like. If you want my $200. diag on this or my $20 hunch I'll say the stator.
 

schematic

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
1,102
I would suspect a bad pack. Had several bad NEW ones of that style from Sierra. Easy to prove. Use a timing lite on each cylinder when limiting occurs. Watch the timing marks....You will see the effects when/if SLOW engages. If it indeed does, replace the pack
 

New2evinrude

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Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
6
Put a timing light on it, not to time it but to see what the spark pattern looks like. If you want my $200. diag on this or my $20 hunch I'll say the stator.

I have a timing light that i used to get my Nissan Xterra timed after replacing the distributor, so i know how to use one on a car, but i do not understand what kind of spark pattern to be looking for. Am i going to do this in the driveway when its running ok...in neutral? Or out on the water when its running badly?
 

New2evinrude

Cadet
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
6
I would suspect a bad pack. Had several bad NEW ones of that style from Sierra. Easy to prove. Use a timing lite on each cylinder when limiting occurs. Watch the timing marks....You will see the effects when/if SLOW engages. If it indeed does, replace the pack

If the timing marks do not line up, then S.L.O.W. has engaged and thus my new power pack is defective?
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
There were some service bulletins back in its day about overheating. What color is the wire from the temp switch in the cylinderhead, tan or tan with a blue stripe- the newest one has the stripe.

Is there a water overboard fitting on the top of the exhaust manifold area, or is it on the lower part of the exhaust side?

Does it have the 6 blade water pump kit or the 3 blade kit installed?

Some even had jet changes and timing changes depending on model and serial number.

Best to see a knowledgeable dealer to check over your motor for the modifications.
 

emdsapmgr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
11,551
You may not have understood what woody was trying say. If an inductive timing light is put on a plug wire, the flashes from the gun will show the quality of the spark. You can check the flashes from the gun on each wire and compare them with the other 3. The gun flashes will show no firing, misfires, weak firing. Ideally you are looking for strong, vivid flashes, in rhythmic nature. You can read this firing either when the engine running, or when cranking only.
 
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