Re: Stator Failure - Symptoms?
TNT.... The stator is a dual purpose component. Small coils arranged on the sides of the stator are for battery charging purposes. The larger coils supply approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack(s).<br /><br />A failing stator, when it first starts to fail (melt down) will usually generate the proper voltage to power the powerpack(s) when cold. But as it heats up, a voltage drop will occur that causes erratic ignition.<br /><br />If your engine idles okay when cold but not when it warms up, the cause could be a stator problem. If, on the other hand, it does not idle under any circumstances but will hit full throttle etc, I would suspect a carburetion problem.<br /><br />This is not to say that your stator is not faulty as you may have two problems (it happens). Inspect it to see if a melt down is taking place. If so, a sticky substance will actually be dripping down out of it to the block.<br /><br />The 35 amp stators run extrememly hot. This eventually causes a melt down of the larger coils, which in turn causes a voltage drop to the powerpack(s) resulting in erratic or no ignition (spark).<br /><br />Reverse polarity to the rectifier (converts AC to DC) will cause the rectifier to short out. This leaves the stator being unable to charge the battery, resulting in a back up of power causing and adding excessive heat to an already hot running item.<br /><br />Note... a tachometer operates off of the charging system. If the tach operates, the rectifier is okay.<br /><br />The 1989 150hp OMC outboard engine can be equipped with either a low amp stator or the hot running 35 amp stator. Hint... if the flywheel has cooling holes near the outer rim, it's a 35 amp system.<br /><br />The stator price depends on which ampere model you have but it will be two or three hundred dollars, possibly slightly more.