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1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

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  • 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

    Am running 5500 rpm @ WOT on 87 octane non-ethanol gas mixed at 50:1 with Pennzoil Ultra, fouled plugs yesterday !!
    It has NGK BP6's in it
    cold temp maybe 40 degrees, gas may be getting old, been in there all winter,
    Think I oughta go to a hotter Champion Plug?
    Like an L86C?
    Plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at .030
    Champion QL77JC4 (see note 3).. 0.030
    CHAMPION 828
    CHAMPION 828M
    CHAMPION QL77J4
    CHAMPION QL77JC4 hottest L86C # 306

    NGK 3579
    NGK BZ7HS-10

    advance auto

    autolite 2634 cold Champion 821
    4092
    4093 275 AP425
    2656 hottest 4114
    414

  • #2
    Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

    Fouling all 6 plugs ??----Thermostats installed ?

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    • #3
      Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

      Assuming that you have removed the VRO setup as it should be... try setting the QL77JC4 plugs to the original recommended setting of .040.
      Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?

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      • #4
        Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

        My Evinrude 200 doesn't like anything but the Champion QL77JC4 plugs.

        Hour upon hours of trolling with water temps in the 30's, air temps significant lower using Pennzoil Premium Plus or Evinrude XD 50. Have yet to foul a plug.
        Last edited by dingbat; February 12th, 2014, 01:31 PM.
        ....

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        • #5
          Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

          I would think so, but better check, water pressure on gauge at WOT on plane is kinda low 10 PSI, Peeing good tho. Could be stopped up line, old gauge
          what heat range?

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          • #6
            Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

            Reckon i oughta go hotter heat range?
            thks
            ed

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

              Did you ever try QL78YC plugs ??

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                no, they're kinda hard to find!
                you can use champions crossover chart and come up with some numbers that parts houses (Advance. O'Rielly, NAPA) carry, but most outlets have to order them. CLose as I could come up with in Hsv & Scottsboro where Champion 821's and only 1 or 2 of them. Got some AUtolite 4093's but only 4!!
                Guess I'll have to mail order them!

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                • #9
                  Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                  Gee, my local Autozone carries them. Maybe because I am near coast?

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                  • #10
                    Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                    #3 post. Check out the removal and conversion procedure again, and check your work. Should run clean at 50:1 if the fuel supply and carb adjustments are right, although I'm not familiar with the Pennzoil 2-cycle oil being used. If it's TCW3 for marine use, probably good.

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                    • #11
                      Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                      Are thermostats installed ??------Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" or more?---Plugs rarely foul on these motors.

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                      • #12
                        Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                        and probably not a plug issue, if clean and properly gapped (.040, per #3, above). t.stats, spark, fuel supply.....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                          humor me (current obsession): Did that motor have a VRO failure in its history, any that you know of? compression OK?
                          Last edited by oldboat1; February 12th, 2014, 12:11 PM.

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                          • #14
                            Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                            That motor should not foul plugs, even with a 24::1 mixture. You still have original VRO pump, or was that swapped out? A lot of fuel pumps have a diaghram that can get a hole in it, leading to raw fuel in the crankcase and this can foul spark plugs.

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                            • #15
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                              Re: 1990 Evinrude 200 hp, VRO removed, fouling plugs

                              rebranger..... Stick with the recommended Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at either .040 or .030 .

                              Plugs usually foul either due to excess oil or weak spark... assuming that the compression is somewhere around 100 psi and fairly even on all cylinders.

                              I'd suggest you check the spark. With all the spark plugs removed and using a spark tester with the gap set to 7/16" for the spark to jump, at cranking speed the spark should be a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? If not, there is a possibilty that the stator is failing (melting down) which would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack capacitor.

                              Another cause of failing ignition/spark would be a slight intermittent short in the ignition switch which would allow voltage to access the black/yellow (kill circuit) of the powerpack.
                              *******************************

                              (Spark Tester - Home Made)
                              (J. Reeves)

                              You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

                              A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

                              Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


                              ..........X1..........X2

                              .................X..(grd)

                              ..........X3..........X4
                              *******************

                              Voltage To Powerpack Failures
                              (Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
                              (J. Reeves)

                              The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.

                              Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

                              Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

                              With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

                              Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

                              If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

                              Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

                              Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
                              Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?

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