1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Catfishearl

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Which coil serves which cylinder? I don't have spark on the bottom cylinder and can't tell which is which.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

The front coil, the one over the carb is for the top cylinder. The rear/aft coil feeds the bottom cylinder.
 

merkdawg

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

The front coil, the one over the carb is for the top cylinder. The rear/aft coil feeds the bottom cylinder.

hey, don't really want to highjack this thread,but would this be the same for 7.5 evinrude? Sorry. Just found it to be a good question.
 

boobie

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Yes..................
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Step 1 is to check compression on any new motor to you. It serves not only to determine the health of the motor in its current state, but to also give you a baseline for future issues.

Step 2 pull the flywheel. Have the coils and condensors been changed>? If no, change them. If yes, dress the points by running some emory cloth through them, then clean with acetone and run some business card stock or clean paper through to ensure there is no oil or grit left on the contact areas. That should get the spark back. Also want to ensure the wires have good continuity to the plug boots. If you are changing the coils, change the plug wire at the same time. You want to use metallic core 7mm wire. Plugs are Champion J6C.

Im not sure how far you have gotten with this motor, but also ensure the fuel lines have been changed with new ethanol proof lines and clean/rebuild the carb. You dont want the old lines gumming up your newly cleaned carbs. I would also drop the gearcase, change the impeller and regrease the splines on the drive shaft and change the o ring. Finally change the gear oil along with new crush washers. If the oil is milky, may be time for a reseal.

Now go through the motor and clean it up, after wiping down with WD40. Regrease and oil where needed.

These are the basics I do on any of the 50s OMCS I aquire. It ensures the motor runs trouble free and lasts another 60 years.
 

Catfishearl

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Thank you everyone for all the advise. So far I've replaced the recoil spring on the pull start..... That was so much fun I invented a 23 syllable cuss word while doing it. ( who knew a spring could fly THAT far) The coils have been replaced but the points for the bottom cylinder are burnt and pitted. It's been stored in a garage under cover for the past 34 years and is really clean. The guy I bought it from didn't know how to fix the starter spring and just put it away. I'm pretty excited. I've got a 60's ( I think ) 12' Mirror Craft V- bottom to put it on. C'mon spring!
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Awesome. Should look nice.

THe springs are extremely dangerous. No one that has done it will think you look silly wearing safety glasses when doing it. I always put them on, just in case.
 

lindy46

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Well, if you can replace the starter spring, the rest will be a breeze! I've had people wanting me to replace that spring, and I've gotten to the point where I just recommend they let me find them a replacement recoil assembly.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

For Future Reference:

(Manual Starter Assembly)
(This pertains to the type of Manual Starter Housing that sits over top of the flywheel)
(J. Reeves)

Lay the manual starter housing upside down on the workbench.

Wind the spring "counter clockwise" in your hands so that you can lay it into the housing, having the outer spring end hooked over the retaining pin. Make sure the spring is in there properly (You do not want it to fly out of there).

Holding the spring down, with pliers carefully bend about 3" or 4" (more or less) on the inner portion of the spring in towards the center of the housing. This will allow the pulley pin to enter the retaining hole at the end of the spring properly.

Lay the pulley down over the spring, making sure that the pin on the pulley is secured to the retaining hole on the end of the spring. Install the spindle (center bearing gizzmo), bolt, nut, etc, whatever your particular manual starter may use.

The cord (nylon) should be roughly 72" long. Have a figure 8 knot in one end. Heat the other end so that you could form a point on it, wiping it with a rag when it's burning or hot to a melting point.

Now, with the starter housing still upside down, keeping a firm grip on that starter housing and also the pulley, start winding the pulley in the normal counter clockwise direction. Wind it as far as it will go, then carefully let it back off until the starter pulley cord hole is aligned with the housing cord outlet.

Hold the pulley there and insert the cord in through the inside of the pulley and out through the starter housing. Pull the cord through completely and get a good grip on it. Now let the pulley retract the cord, but hold onto the cord (don't let it fly in there).

If it's obvious that the cord is too long, figuring what will be needed within the handle, shorten it as needed.

Pull the cord out so that about two feet of the cord is exposed. Tie a slip knot so that the cord can't retract back.

Insert the cord into the handle and secure as needed, then release the slip knot allowing the cord to be withdrawn fully. That's all there is to it..
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

The only thing I will add to what Joe said is that the '58 uses a Ease a Matic starter, and it needs to be properly timed, compared to a normal Simplex starter. The difference with the Ease a Matic is that the sheave is oblong shaped, this provides for easier starting since you are using the non compression portion of the stroke to build up speed. Only works properly though if it is properly aligned with respect to the crank.

The rope for the 10/15/18hp motors use a 7/32" diameter rope cut to 72 1/4" long. If you have 1/2" of rope protruding from the figure 8 knot, the starter should be properly timed. The embossed arrow should line up with the mark underneath, if it is off, simply trim the rope so that the arrow is aligned with the mark.
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

High Trim.... That slipped my mind, thanks. Align the rope notches and all will be well. Just makes it easier to pull over.

71_18hpM-Starter-2.jpg
 

kbait

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Actually, it'll pull over w/the same ease if it's not lined up, but you'll have to pull the rope further out to engage recoil pawl to flywheel.
 

Catfishearl

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Again, thanks to all for this information! The only thing that worries me is cleaning out the carburetor. I tried rebuilding one once upon a time and almost had to be put into a straight jacket. I'm hoping all I have to do is clean it out!
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Carb is pretty straight forward. Check the Faqs for a thread that will help, and always plenty of youtube videos.

Harder to pull if you have to pull a foot out, then start the pull. Much easier to have it timed, makes for easier starts.

Also so many guys that dont lightly pull the rope until the compression starts, then pull it over. They just grab the handle and yank on it, snapping the rope, breaking the spring then rowing back to shore. I would time it properly, not like it is difficult, just my humble advice.
 

kodibass

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Re: 1958 Johnson 10 hp. coil question

Not jacking here, just wanted to say very informative thread, I had no idea about the timing marks, & wondered why I had all that slack on some of the ones I rewound, Just when I thought I knew everything----- Man its hard being a simpleton! great replies.
 
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