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1971 60 hp evinrude wiring diagram

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  • 1971 60 hp evinrude wiring diagram

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    Need a diagram, 3 cylinder distributor sytem, No 12volts while starting to primary of coil.
    checking primary lead to Coil to clean spot on block with multimeter in DC volts while turning the key to start, and starter motor turning flywheel. When it's quiet and the key switch is still in run position you can hear the wabash 389549 amplifier ticking.

    Hydro Electric Shift model controller

    This is a rigged up motor I got cheap, and am trying to get it running, it appears to be a 1973 65 hp evinrude triumph 65373R all parts there but they didn't have a distributor on the 1973 65 hp so thru some investigations of parts diagrams I am going to guess it is one of the 1971 60 hp models powerhead on everything else from the 1973 652373R based on the fact that the 1971 60hp appears to be the only model with a 3 cylinder distributor

    Last edited by Rob.Boone; March 2nd, 2011, 05:36 PM. Reason: more info

  • #2
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    Re: 1971 60 hp evinrude wiring diagram

    1971 60hp Evinrude - Battery Capacitance Ignition (Solid State)

    Unless that ignition system has been converted to automotive ignition, there will never be 12 volts (battery voltage) applied to that ignition coil.

    Disconnecting the plug in lead wire that leads from the pulsepack to the timer base, then with the key in the ON position, tapping that lead on the powerhead will simulate the ignition points opening and closing. If all is well, the coil should fire.

    Remove coil wire from distributor cap by first removing the coil from its bracket, then turning the coil and wire, unscrew it from the distributor cap.... then reinstall the coil into its original bracket. Tapping the wire lead mentioned above with the coil wire still attached to the distributor cap could lead to injury.

    A standard test follows:

    (Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
    ( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
    (Some have points - Some do not)
    (Joe Reeves)

    The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

    Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

    You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

    Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

    (Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
    ( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
    (J. Reeves)

    On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

    The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.

    (Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
    Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
    (J. Reeves)

    Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

    Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

    Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

    Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.
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