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Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

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  • Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

    I need suggestions.

    I have an 88 Evinrude V4 this motor is in immaculate shape, my mechanic basically said he was amazed everything origional, we just replaced plugs etc. to get it tuned up for summer time. I was in the process of cranking it over and heard a not so good noise.

    There was a broken bolt on the bottom of my starter, the 2nd bolt up is holding tight, but the 3rd bolt the bolt that is on the top that is bolted to the head, acutally broke the piece of threded insert. Can these motors be welded on, any idea what the metal is made out of * Aluminum ? hopefully. *

    This is my only set back from getting on the lake....minus the snow were getting today!!

    Suggestions welcome!

  • #2
    Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

    It is aluminum and it can be welded by a well qualified welder. That is expensive stuff you are messing with so take it to the best.


    • #3
      Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

      TEBOW Country

      Please, NO PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems. they will not be answered.
      That is what these forums are for. Post your questions, in the appropriate Forum.


      • #4
        Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4


        i called a qualified skilled welder a friend of mine recommended. He said the only way it can be welded, is if i tear the motor down. . . which means completely disassemble the entire thing, and bring him in just the block. :'(

        THIS IS NO GOOD!

        any other suggestions rather than having it welded. . . . it looks as though the other side, where this bolt would normally stop is a solid tab of aluminum, can i drill this out, place a solid steel spacer between my starter tab, and this tab, and place a bolt through?

        It will take a bit of modification, but not nearly as much as disassembling and rebuilding my entire motor.

        This has not turned into a good day!


        • #5
          Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

          I did something similar once where I used the broken piece as a spacer. I drilled out the broken piece so the bolt would simply pass through. I then drilled and tapped the "good" part of the block. Using a longer bolt, the broken piece acted as the spacer while the bolt bit into the threads in the block. Won't work in every case, as you have to have enough meat in the block area where you're drilling and tapping to hold things in place without drilling through into the crankcase.

          - Scott


          • #6
            Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

            Well i know its a free part of the case, will not go into anything that would hurt the motor so says my mechanic.

            It is a similar tab as the one that was origionally trilled and tapped out. So im thinking if i drill out and let the bolt pass clean through the good tab, instead of tapping it, use a locktight washer/nut and maybe get enough torqe on that bolt to hold it in place, none the less i have 2 bolts the lower two holding the starter in place, but that 3rd is obv there for a reason.

            I may have to just prey and try.


            • #7
              Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

              it does not have to be dissasembled to be welded , MOST LIKELY

              but it is prudent to mention that there is a lot of prep work to welding aluminum and the guy is covering his bases, by giving himslef the best chance to do a good clean successfull job.

              the more you tear down the motor the better.. i cant picture where it is, right now...but a guy could tig weld a piece on or build up and area and re machine...all easier with just a block to work with , but not impossible as is.

              the truth is you might not want to hear the cost of getting it welded and fixed...and the welder knows this from telling people prices for repairs like this and them running away screaming RAPE!!!

              as a tool maker i know these things.. and example is a super thin stainless steel washer...

              you can buy one for .50 cents...but to make one.... to a specific size..might take an hour ..because of the problem of holding it while cutting it...logistics man!!!!...if it was magnetic, it would be a different story...

              tell someone their washer will cost $50...they scream at you!!

              good luck



              • #8
                Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

                I am a welder. Your welder is covering your butt on this. He is more than likely going to use a mig welder on this. Any electronics left on the engine
                could be fried due to the welder voltages. There could also be an electrical arc across the bearings which would pit them. I hope you find another way to repair this but if you do weld it take it apart like he said.


                • #9
                  Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

                  I know this is and old thead and i'm not sugesting this for a fix for this problem ,but it may help with other problems. It's a product called Dura fix Aluminum Welding. Google it . :-)


                  • #10
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                    Re: Broken bolt hole in head - 88 Evinrude V4

                    I own a fab shop for custom cars and trucks and weld aluminum all the time. mig welding shoots sparks everywhere so that probablly would not be the best thing to do but tig welding would be no prob. alum is porous so it sucks in all the oil and fuel and salt and oxidation that makes it nasty to weld and being there was a bolt in there there will be even more dirt to deal with . you just have to be able to get to were you need to weld . i use my die grinder with a porting bit and dig in .clean all the nasty out till it looks all shinny alum. if you have to take out all the threads that are left thats ok , you can build it back up fast and easy. then drill and tap it . it aint somthing anyone can do .tig welding takes years of practice to be good at it. some times you have to heat the metal with the tig torch before you weld on it . it makes the oil and crap in the alum float out then grind it off with your porting bit than weld it . you dont have to take the motor apart . just be able to get to what you got to get. as far as arcing from the ground , you need to hook the ground lead to the part you welding as close as you can to what your welding so the current has a strait shot . you might have to sand off some paint off the bolck . dont hook it to the propeller or any thing like that .it has to the part you are welding.I weld on cars all day ,building headers ,turbo parts etc. they all have motors and Ive never ever hade a prob as long as the ground is where it needs to be. I fix stuff like that all the time . I say if you take what ever you have to take off so you can get to the spot needing welded it would take maby an hour to fix. you just have to find somebody who knows what there talking about.