jay mendoza
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2009
- Messages
- 81
OK, I have had enough of all the miss-information spread by people answering questions about converting a 9.9 to a 15. The answer is plain and simple, and it is yes you can and it very easy to do.
From 1974-81 the only differances are the carburetors. After that the 15 had a different exhaust tube, and some small .0125 spacers under the reed stops to allow the reeds to open a bit more.
Now, that said, I have a 1975 9.9 and put a 15 carb on it. The power increase was so significant that it promptly broke the upper motor mounts and I had to replace them! Next I tried a 15 exhaust megaphone and the reed shims, which did not seem to make any noticable differance, the biggest single change is the carb, pure and simple.
All the guys who have posted here saying you can't just change the carb and that there is much more to it than that to get the 15 hp are dead wrong and obviousely have never done it themselves, ignore their comments. I'm here to tell all of you that if you can get a 15 carb, it will make a really nice power boost to the 9.9hp Johnsons and Evinrudes(1974-87) Beware that you kind of need to get the same year model carb, as your year however, as a plastic carb does not adapt well to an ealier engine( all metal carb) without some modifications.
Another thing is that some have said the 15 won't idle and troll as well, but that is exactly what I use my engine for when the wind is not strong enough to drift troll, and I have never had a problem...and I like to troll very slowly.
I went back to using the 9.9 hp(1975) exhaust tube as I found it was quieter, and removed the reed shims. I then re-bent the reed stops to allow the reeds to allow the reeds to uncover more of the opening in the leaf plate when open, and that resulted in crisper throttle response and acceleration, but no measuable increase in top speed.
The one thing that helped with super low idling was to set the points timing dead on using a strobe type timing light, this revealed they were off quite a bit as compared to checking with a battery powered light, buzz box, or just gaping to .020" with a feeler gauge. Once both points were set dead on the money as verified when running with the strobe timing light, the engine ran much smoother and idled down to lower speeds than was previousely possible.
From 1974-81 the only differances are the carburetors. After that the 15 had a different exhaust tube, and some small .0125 spacers under the reed stops to allow the reeds to open a bit more.
Now, that said, I have a 1975 9.9 and put a 15 carb on it. The power increase was so significant that it promptly broke the upper motor mounts and I had to replace them! Next I tried a 15 exhaust megaphone and the reed shims, which did not seem to make any noticable differance, the biggest single change is the carb, pure and simple.
All the guys who have posted here saying you can't just change the carb and that there is much more to it than that to get the 15 hp are dead wrong and obviousely have never done it themselves, ignore their comments. I'm here to tell all of you that if you can get a 15 carb, it will make a really nice power boost to the 9.9hp Johnsons and Evinrudes(1974-87) Beware that you kind of need to get the same year model carb, as your year however, as a plastic carb does not adapt well to an ealier engine( all metal carb) without some modifications.
Another thing is that some have said the 15 won't idle and troll as well, but that is exactly what I use my engine for when the wind is not strong enough to drift troll, and I have never had a problem...and I like to troll very slowly.
I went back to using the 9.9 hp(1975) exhaust tube as I found it was quieter, and removed the reed shims. I then re-bent the reed stops to allow the reeds to allow the reeds to uncover more of the opening in the leaf plate when open, and that resulted in crisper throttle response and acceleration, but no measuable increase in top speed.
The one thing that helped with super low idling was to set the points timing dead on using a strobe type timing light, this revealed they were off quite a bit as compared to checking with a battery powered light, buzz box, or just gaping to .020" with a feeler gauge. Once both points were set dead on the money as verified when running with the strobe timing light, the engine ran much smoother and idled down to lower speeds than was previousely possible.