Why did my Power pack go bad?

[Hall239]

Is there anything I did that can make a power pack go bad or is it something that just goes bad.
And in your experience what is the order following in break?
(what is the most common)
1. Coil
2. Power Pack
3. Trigger
4. Stator

 

[DJ]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

It's really hard to say which will go first. A lot depends on the engine type and size.

Hooking up the battry leads backwards will certainly pop a couple of those, especially the rectifier.

Loose battery connections are also death to many components.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

as DJ said, loose corroded connections not just battery, are the #1 culprit, and connecting the battery backwards, just for a milisecond. do not remove battery cable with engine running, or key on.

 

[Hall239]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

When I purchased the boat (w/twin Evinrude 96 150s Oceans Pros) It wouldnt turn over. to start Had to replace the Battery Connections. Had to clean the carbs. Now one fires right up. I have no extra money for a DVA. is there a way to check the rectifier and power pack without buying a DVA.

 

[Hall239]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Is it a viable solution to take the power pack off the motor that is working to check the other?

 

[HybridMX6]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Is it a viable solution to take the power pack off the motor that is working to check the other?

Yes

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

i say yes and no. you could possibly blow a good power pack. then you would need 2 power packs. which is cheaper power pack or dva.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

You can buy the dva adapter to adapt a multi meter to peak reading, I think its about $50-60 for the adapter.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Let's back up a little bit. What exactly are the symptoms of your problem? Won't crank? Won't fire? Won't produce a blue spark with a spark tester? Produces a good, blue spark but won't light up? Tell us a bit more unless your question about power paks is just an academic question.

 

[Rick.]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

What is a DVA? I guess I can assume it's a device for checking the condition of a power pack? Where are they for sale? Rick.

 

[DJ]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Let's back up a little bit. What exactly are the symptoms of your problem? Won't crank? Won't fire? Won't produce a blue spark with a spark tester? Produces a good, blue spark but won't light up? Tell us a bit more unless your question about power paks is just an academic question.

Good advice. Tell US EXACTLY what the dead engine will and won't do.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

http://www.maxrules.com/fixtools640.html

As I thought $50, adapts multimeter to peak reading meter. You may need to get a digital meter to use with this.

I borrow my landlords meter, he's never heard of "peak reading" but his fluke has a hold feature and that does the same thang. He's an electrician.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

What is a DVA? I guess I can assume it's a device for checking the condition of a power pack? Where are they for sale? Rick.

Rick, DVA is an acronym for Direct Voltage Adaptor. Fancy term for a peak reading voltmeter. They are specialty meters for measuring average DC voltages and AC voltage spikes on ignition systems. For the backyard mechanic, a DVA adaptor is fine as mentioned, check ebay.

As far as your rectifier goes Hall, your standard meter is fine, check the FAQ's for a thread by Joe Reeves for the testing procedure.

You can test the isolation diodes in the power pack with an ohmmeter, but a DVA meter(adaptor) is needed for the important tests.

One of the main causes of a MCD power pack failure not mentioned is getting a small amount of voltage applied to the kill wire (black/yellow) at the power pack. This can be easily tested with a voltmeter, let us know if would like the procedure.

 

[Benny1963]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

what did ya find?

 

[Hall239]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Answer to the first qeustion.

1. When I got the Boat. I had to put new batteries in Clean the Carbs, replace the battery cables and connection. Had between 60-80 on Each Cylinder. Ran Seafoam threw each one Got the engines to bump and let it sit for a while. Fired Then I got the Starboard motor to run Perfect 120-125 on all six. Still no spark to the Port motor. Was going to check the power pack. Well as I got back to the boat I find my friend reversed the polarity on the batteries, now. none of the motors will start. So i am picking up 2 rectifiers tomorrow. I am so frustrated.thanks for taking the time to help I am greatful.

 

[Hall239]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Chris I if would love the procedure. Thanks Anything like that I am truley grateful for. I have been out the coast guard for 10-15 years now so I am really rusty.

 

[Hall239]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Let's back up a little bit. What exactly are the symptoms of your problem? Won't crank? Won't fire? Won't produce a blue spark with a spark tester? Produces a good, blue spark but won't light up? Tell us a bit more unless your question about power paks is just an academic question.

I have dealt with all the problems of the boat the best I could, now I have gotten up to No Spark and Won't produce a blue spark with a spark tester? I Know I have fuel.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

No spark at all?

try the simple and cheap first, the engine kill switch wiring.
Problems can occur anywhere in the circuit,

it happened to me at the ignition key switch, if its (ignition switch barrel)twisted and creates a short between the poles, as high trim said, any voltage getting to that wire can toast the power pack....permanently.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Why did my Power pack go bad?

Ill post the procedure, but given the information that your friend cross polarized the battery, Id be willing to bet that is your problem. That'll toast the rectifier in a jiffy.

Ok, first thing you do is locate the black/yellow wire at your power pack and disconnect it.

Now you are either going to need an ampere meter, or a volt meter, set to its lowest DC voltage reading. Hook one end of the meter to the black/yellow wire that you just disconnected, hook the other end of the meter to the engine ground. Now turn you key ON. Did the meter move? Or if using a volt meter, did you get a reading? If it did, you are getting voltage to the kill wire, and that is not good.

If there was no movement, all is well. If there was, follow that black/yellow wire to your ignition switch and disconnect it from the raised terminal. If that solves the reading, replace your ignition switch.

If you are still getting movement/reading, you have a short. The two likely spots are the engine wiring harness or instrument wiring harness. Finding out which one is fairly simple. Find the large red ampehnol plug located near your starter and unplug it, then retest. If the reading/movement of the needle dissapears, the short is in your instrument wiring harness, since you just isolated it. If however, the short is still present, the short is in your engine wiring harness.

 

[Fishing 4 fun]

I have a 1990 Bay boat project witha Johnson 115hp outboard. Boat sat for about a year before I bought it, so I was told. I had the carbs cleaned, i put new coils, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel lines, starter, starter solenoid, water separator housing and filter, power pack and had the lower unit serviced. I've had a consistent problem with my boat running. What can cause a power pack to swell? Also what can cause my boat to run on 4 cylinder then drop to 2 in less than 10 minutes on the water?