1990 48 SPL runs only when primed.... HELP, VERY frustrated!!

oldboat1

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^^Good idea. Check for any sparking along plug wiring, coils, etc.
 

PLion

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Have you had a chance to check the gas yet? I'm curious if you're in fact having the same issue I did. I was able to get my boat in the water this weekend and it ran great. Even if it doesn't look like there's water in there, I would try and run it using a separate fuel tank just to eliminate any of the hoses/connections on the boat tank as a possibility. Maybe try new gas without the sea foam in there too. I've never used sea foam myself but everything on the internet says it's fine to use, however, I would eliminate that as a source. Another thing you can try is to get the engine running by putting it in "manual" prime mode, then turn it back to the "run" position and when it's starting to die, use your hand or a rag and manually choke the carburetors and see if you can keep the engine running. If you can, you know that the fuel is making it thru the carbs and into the engine.

I know you said your fuel pump is new but one thing I did to "test" mine was to take the outlet hose and put it in an empty water bottle and cranked the engine to see the fuel being pumped out. I say test in quotes because it's not actually under load so it's not a true test but at least you know it functions.

The hose on mine that got pinched was probably leaking a little bit but it was in a location that was impossible to see without removing the starter or vro pump. I'm assuming the pinch mostly cut off the flow thru the hose since the boat was still able to run (poorly) with the gash there.
 

racerone

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PLion-----Well ---I would say your test of the fuel pump was a " true " test.-----Load has nothing to do with the function of the pump.-----The pump get a PRESSURE pulse from the crankcase and it then pumps the fuel !
 

oldboat1

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test for water in the system too. Would see water at the bottom, and gas floating on top.
 

webbd

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Jul 20, 2011
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Just a quick thought... Water-separating fuel filters are a major fix, particularly if you get one with the clear bowl that you can release the water from. I had a water-in-gas issue years ago with my boat, and have never seen that since I added a Racor. My boat spends most of its time on salt water and I've needed to replace the filter cartridge once.

As stated before, the fuel pump on your 48SPL uses pressure pulses from the case. You indicated that you're getting fuel out from the carburetor lines.

My motor is a 50 and has a VRO, but it will draw fuel from the tank on a fully charge battery if I crank it long enough, even when I don't squeeze the bulb and prime the lines. Does yours do that? If not, look for air leaks.

-- DW
 

boobie

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Maybe I missed it, but did you ever get this motor to run right ??. And if you did what was the problem.? Thanks !!
 

DBoots

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Sep 10, 2020
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Haven't checked the gas yet, sorry, went back in to the carbs and cleaned again. I did notice that I had "black stuff" in the bottom carb, not sure what it came from. It seemed to be like a black powder mixed with the gas. Strange. Was thinking maybe came from old hoses or deteriorating hoses on the inside? The last time I tried to run the motor, it wasn't running long since I was pushing the primer solenoid to keep it running. Possible it's carbon from the Seafoam? Weird. Anyway, went back into the carbs, nightmare! The last "jerk" who worked on the carbs apparently does not know their strength or heard of "snug". The orifice where the drainplug goes on the top carb came out, but had to use a vice and pliers on the screwdriver to get it to come out. The orifice on the top came out, but was more than snug also. Then came the bottom carb, orifice would not break loose and the slot for the screwdriver was a mess if there even was one. I do have the correct screwdriver for the orifices also. Needless to say, that one is still in the bowl. Tried to tap a screwdriver into the brass and turn it, but still wouldn't break loose. Found a bowl on ebay and ordered a new top and bottom orifice, going to continue to try to get it out, but will probably not be easy. I did change all of the fuel lines, but when it came to the vacuum lines, different story. Got the lines from the dealer like I said previously, and trying to get the lines to go on the male ends is more than a struggle. I'm afraid of breaking the male end of the primer solenoid since it's plastic. The hole on the vacuum hose looks to be the size of a large paperclip and the male ends are larger. Any tips on getting the hoses on? Grease, oil? It's like trying to get a garden hose over a golf ball! I tried to "stretch" the hose end by putting a center punch in it, it only split the end of the hose. Any help there appreciated!
 

iggyw1

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Oct 24, 2011
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Haven't checked the gas yet, sorry, went back in to the carbs and cleaned again. I did notice that I had "black stuff" in the bottom carb, not sure what it came from. It seemed to be like a black powder mixed with the gas. Strange. Was thinking maybe came from old hoses or deteriorating hoses on the inside? The last time I tried to run the motor, it wasn't running long since I was pushing the primer solenoid to keep it running. Possible it's carbon from the Seafoam? Weird. Anyway, went back into the carbs, nightmare! The last "jerk" who worked on the carbs apparently does not know their strength or heard of "snug". The orifice where the drainplug goes on the top carb came out, but had to use a vice and pliers on the screwdriver to get it to come out. The orifice on the top came out, but was more than snug also. Then came the bottom carb, orifice would not break loose and the slot for the screwdriver was a mess if there even was one. I do have the correct screwdriver for the orifices also. Needless to say, that one is still in the bowl. Tried to tap a screwdriver into the brass and turn it, but still wouldn't break loose. Found a bowl on ebay and ordered a new top and bottom orifice, going to continue to try to get it out, but will probably not be easy. I did change all of the fuel lines, but when it came to the vacuum lines, different story. Got the lines from the dealer like I said previously, and trying to get the lines to go on the male ends is more than a struggle. I'm afraid of breaking the male end of the primer solenoid since it's plastic. The hole on the vacuum hose looks to be the size of a large paperclip and the male ends are larger. Any tips on getting the hoses on? Grease, oil? It's like trying to get a garden hose over a golf ball! I tried to "stretch" the hose end by putting a center punch in it, it only split the end of the hose. Any help there appreciated!

Try placing the end of the lines in some very hot water for a bit, and then try putting them over the male nipples. Maybe you got the wrong sized lines?
 

oldboat1

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Sounds like something is coming from your tank or fuel lines to clog tiny jets in the carbs. What would cause that?

I would find a different uTube source. Never remove lead shots, as they are left from manufacture and have nothing to do with operation or maintenance. Remove plastic or rubber, but leave linkages attached. If your carbs have plastic tops, remove them before soaking (also reveals orifices for cleaning). Take out compression plugs (the domed shaped plugs), and soak the carb top and bottom in solvent of your choice. I use lacquer thinner. Some use detergent. You need to dissolve old fuel varnish in nooks and crannies. I soak with jets in place to avoid damaging them, and finish with soft wire or monofilament in every opening, then carb spray using the plastic nozzle. I've done this for 50 years or so with good success.

Gasoline is itself a solvent when fresh, and 2-cyle oil is all the lube needed for the powerhead.
 

ct1762@gmail.com

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the only way i can get really stuck orifices out is by soaking in engine tuner overnight, then blasting the bowl around it (best i can) with a butane torch. 8/10 times this works, but sometime they are just beyond fixing and i drill them out and re-tap. pain in the wallet though as certain ones are $20 ea. or so!
 

DBoots

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Sep 10, 2020
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Actually I have a service manual and in the service manual it has a note that says "Never clean a carburetor by submerging or soaking it in a hot tank or carburetor cleaner. Do not expose plastic or rubber parts to any carburetor cleaner", also it says "If necessary, remove the lead shot to inspect passage for restrictions or leaks, Gently pry up on lead shot with a sharp edged tool. Install a new lead shot, Flatten shot with a flat end punch and plastic mallet. Check for leakage." I'm just stating exactly what the manual says. I removed the jets with the $33.00 screwdriver that the manual calls for and the ones I could get out. I removed the caps and replaced those after cleaning, sealed with red locktite which is supposed to be impervious to gas. I, again, am a novice, and know nothing about boat motors, but started researching on youtube on how to work on it. I found a marine mechanic who has several videos on how to work on a 1989 Evinrude 40. Mines a 1990 48 and everything seems virtually the same. I know virtually nothing about this motor from the previous owner. He said "runs great" and I took his word for it, my mistake. Get it home and has not run since, So, I'm trying to go from scratch so I know what has been done. I found sand in the gearcase when I changed the waterpump and one of the fins was worn almost off. Found water in the gearcase when I went to change the oil in the foot, so I have rebuilt the gearcase. I'm glad that you have had great experiences with your motor, but mine is a puzzle I'm trying to solve right now and only get to work on it when I'm off of work and nothing else that's a priority. As far as the vacuum lines, the end of the old hose did fit over the male end, but when I cut that piece off, the hole was as small as the lines I got from the dealer, To be honest, I don't know if it's the correct size, but it's the same as what is on the motor. It doesn't seem to me it should be that hard to get them on there. Like I said, you have to use significant force to try to get it on there and I'm afraid I'm going to break the plastic pieces on the solenoid primer, which I just replaced with a new one. The opening, like I said, was about the size of a large paperclip and it seems like it should be larger to me, but like I said, I don't know. Seems like to me it would be easy to pinch that opening closed. I do appreciate all the responses and I'm not one to ask for help and not try to do what was suggested, I'm trying, just not enough money and time to get to everything. The weather hasn't been cooperating either, but I'm not trying to make excuses. Again, that you to all who gave advice! It is appreciated! I will get to the advice given!
 

oldboat1

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Look for qualifiers and context (e.g., when and why to remove those lead shots, jets, when and how best to use solvents.) Need to learn the downside(s) if doing your own work -- context there too (skills, experience, tools, etc.)

Good luck with the project.
 

DBoots

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Sep 10, 2020
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I had been working 6 days a week and rain on my days off but FINALLY!!!! I finally got the engine running!! This has got to be the most frustrating "project" I ever messed with. I went back in to the carbs again, for the third time, cleaned everything again. I synchronized the carbs and adjusted all the linkage to where it is supposed to be. The thing cranked and ran, but poorly. I ended up putting some 91% alcohol in the gas and added a water separater and finally it ran. It runs pretty good, but idle needs a little adjusting, wants to die when first starting up, cold start. I thank everyone for all the advice! I can't wait to get it on the water and see if she floats!! I may even gets some fishing in. Of course it's supposed to be cold, but I think I'll warm up as I go around the lake!!
 
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