83 15hp Evenrude takes to many pulls to start

Steelhand

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I have a 1983 15hp Evinrude e15rcta. Very well maintained, sat for a number of years with the previous owner as a back up, which hardly got used. 100 on both cylinders, has good spark and we rebuilt the carb. We also installed new fuel lines, fuel connector, thermostat with seal and cover gasket. We gave under the flywheel a good inspection and when I get her to the lake, 32 pulls to start. One pull all day long after it warms up. All three times I’ve gone out after getting the motor, the same.
 

racerone

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Remove cover for the intake silencer box.---just 4 screws.------Pull choke on.-----Inspect ( mirror if required ) and look into carburetor.----Is choke fully closed , yes or no ?----And are you turning throttle grip FULLY against the neutral stop , yes or no ?
 

Steelhand

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Okay racerone, just checked, choke fully closes. Yes, I do turn throttle grip fully against neutral stop.
 

racerone

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What ro you call -----" good spark " ----on this motor ?----On the many motors that I have , good spark jumps a gap of 7/16" on a proper test device.
 

Steelhand

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Okay, that will have to wait. I'm disabled and the person helping with the motor has the spark tester. Seems like a god time to go get a good one for myself. I'll get back with the answer. Thanks.
 

racerone

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In this case do this test with plugs in and you pulling it over.----Sorry , there may be an issue with how fast you are able to turn the flywheel.----I am not there to see.
 

oldboat1

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I have a couple of those, and find that the idle mix needle needs to be set a bit richer for cold starting (counterclockwise). Set it back to its leaner position when the motor is warmed up enough to keep running. Difference is about 1/8 turn or a little more.
 

Crosbyman

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I have a couple of those, and find that the idle mix needle needs to be set a bit richer for cold starting (counterclockwise). Set it back to its leaner position when the motor is warmed up enough to keep running. Difference is about 1/8 turn or a little more.

when you serviced the " number of years" sleeping carb did you go.. all the way ?

the idle mix screw allows gas to enter the small " drip" chamber on top of the carb .

gas is sucked in via 3 very small drip holes and the only way to really be certain they are spotless is to open up the cover and clean them out.

reseal the chamber with a new plug blow dry all orifices
 

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oldboat1

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^^+1. I disassemble and soak, then run soft wire into all openings (torch tip cleaners, if you have them) -- like to resist blow drying, though, as that can blast small parts all over the bench and floor. :)
 

JimS123

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If it starts warm it should start cold if the choke works. The only time this ever happened to me was when the gas tank was bad and on a cold startup the carb was dry.

Retract the ball on the motor fuel line connector and then pump the priming bulb to be sure it squirts gas really good. Then reconnect it and pump till you can't squeeze it any more.
 

racerone

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If it takes 30 pulls to start one of those there is something wrong with the motor or the starting procedure.----Simple trouble shooting is required.
 

Steelhand

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Wow, I went away for some time and you guys kept trouble shooting. I'm stuck at home "physical problems" so no spark tester yet.

To answer a couple of questions asked in my absence: Yes, carb rebuild went all the way. the person responsible is certified OMC mechanic.
When he test his work with muffs before he left, it took 3 pulls. It was with a different tank and line set up also. When running, it's a jewel. really smooth and responsive


I've been thinking along the lines of the gas tank as mentioned and Racerones simple trouble shooting at start up. I'm doing something wrong. Thanks for everyone's response. I jumped the gun asking for help when I won't have the boat out soon. Motor will sit awhile longer also.
 

Steelhand

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oldboat1, I'm still a newbie and I have trouble wrapping the idle mix around in my head. When I'm in the boat, I loose all concept of lean and rich. I get nervous and draw blanks. Thanks for your input.
 

Steelhand

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One thing I did want to throw out there. When I disconnect the fuel connector from the motor to run it dry before recover. fuel leaks from the motors fuel connector. Don't see that with either of my 6hp or 9.9hp. Could that be a sign of a problem with the fuel pump. I don't feel it could if it runs so good when worm.

I just need to get the motor on the boat and both in the water. Then get back to you guys after some trouble shooting. You all have been great.
 

JimS123

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One thing I did want to throw out there. When I disconnect the fuel connector from the motor to run it dry before recover. fuel leaks from the motors fuel connector. Don't see that with either of my 6hp or 9.9hp. Could that be a sign of a problem with the fuel pump. I don't feel it could if it runs so good when worm.

I just need to get the motor on the boat and both in the water. Then get back to you guys after some trouble shooting. You all have been great.

That means that the line just before the connector is clean. A little gas from there is normal.
 

Steelhand

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Got it, thumbs up. One more wonder scratched off the list.

I had surgery. As soon as I'm givin' the green light, I'll do the mentioned trouble shoot and let you all know where I was messing up on start up. It has to be something real simple. Thanks again.
 

Crosbyman

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most of us older folks don't like the drip ..so you can always install a one way check valve just past the connector
but… that line will never drain 100% id you need to store it for long period . Me I always store fully fuelled up with gas saver
 

JimS123

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most of us older folks don't like the drip ..so you can always install a one way check valve just past the connector
but… that line will never drain 100% id you need to store it for long period . Me I always store fully fuelled up with gas saver

Back in the olden days it was a common practice to drain the carb at the end of the day. That's what Grandpa told me to do and I've done it that way ever since. Hardly ever had a problem with ANY OB, certainly never a carb problem.

As far as the drip goes, if you pull off the fuel line while its still running, it probably won't drip at all because there will still be suction on the line. Just remember that even if you disconnect and run her dry, it does leave some gas left.

Be that as it may, y'all should do whatever makes you feel comfortable.

One thing to note, though, is that Mercury Marine currently recommends the run dry procedure for their small carbureted carryable outboards. Its in a service bulletin and also in the owner's manual.
 
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