1980 9.9 Telltale HOt

trashcanslam

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Nov 14, 2019
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Hi all, I’ve got a 1980 9.9hp Seahorse. I’ve given her a tune up and I think I’ve covered everything. Today while flushing her in a barrel I noticed the pee water was hotter than usual. It was not scalding, but it was uncomfortable after about 2-3 seconds. It would take some willpower to hold my hand longer. I was wondering if this is something worrying about or just normal operation? I don’t think it was this hot before I changed the impeller.

I appreciate your help!!!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Water in your test bucket must be about 6 / 8 " above the pump.---------Or there is a blockage in the motor.----Possibly the grommet at the top of the water tube.----Water coming out of the tell tale does NOT go through the block.
 

trashcanslam

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Water from the tell tale doesn’t go through the block? I didn’t know that. But the water was definitely more than 8 inches over the pump. How would you suggest going about diagnosing the issue?

Thank you.
 

racerone

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The tell tale comes off the exhaust cover.----That is where water enters the block.-----Tell tale water does NOT go through the block.-------On a 1980 motor I would remove the powerhead to inspect grommet at top of water tube.---Replace seal on bottom of crankshaft.----Change thermostat as it is easier to do with power head off.----Others may not agree with this approach.-------I am quite familiar with these motors.
 

Big Gee

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How long had it been running in the barrel?

If it runs long enough in the barrel without refreshing the water in the barrel, I could see the water temp in the barrel heating up and providing less cooling.
 
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racerone

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You can idle for about an hour in a 45 gallon barrel before water could cause issues
 

thatone123

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If it was run in salt there are probably blocked passages around the head and in the water jacket cover. I have taken a half box measure of a blue Morton salt box out of one of these. Maybe that has caused the water to flow out the pee hole where it might not do that if there was no blockage. Some mineral types of fresh/brackish water can be bad for outboard cooling systems also. Those pee holes are too small also and it pays to take off that plastic small pee hole do-hickie and put in a clear plastic hose and just let it hang out as you can then see it a lot better. That way you can see debris that can build up in the hose.
 

Sea Rider

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That's nearly a 40 year oldie, it it was run on salt water through its entire life of usage, need to tear the cylinder head, exhaust covers and mechanically clean/scrape gently all water passages to factory conditions, torque all gaskets to their tech specs, change thermostat and impeller. Motor will work and cool as when factory delivered. There's no commercial product that will remove tons of salt build ups on all water passages while flushing, all day long if you like..

Happy Boating
 

flyingscott

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Post #4 is the.one you should follow. Leave the pee hole indicator on do not remove it.
 

flyingscott

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Put.up.a.pic of this spark adjustment screw. Because there is no screw that adjusts spark intensity. But there is a screw I believe that adjusts whent the spark happens. If.you adjusted that you will need to re-adjust that.
 

GA_Boater

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Couple of questions for the OP;
  • Is this a salt water motor?
  • How many gallons in your barrel?
  • How long are you running to flush in the barrel.

Side note - I'm getting bored with deleting off topic posts. Most were by you, thatone123. This thread and the other impeller thread started by the OP isn't about Fords, mud motors or WWII. Stay on topic or don't reply. Got it?
 

trashcanslam

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Couple of questions for the OP;
  • Is this a salt water motor?
  • How many gallons in your barrel?
  • How long are you running to flush in the barrel.

Side note - I'm getting bored with deleting off topic posts. Most were by you, thatone123. This thread and the other impeller thread started by the OP isn't about Fords, mud motors or WWII. Stay on topic or don't reply. Got it?


It use it primarily in salt. Usually I will try to hit the freshwater ramp on my way home as a better alternative to flushing in a barrel but was pressed for time last weekend. The barrel I use is a plastic trash can so I would guess around 55 gallons. I'm a little overzealous with the flushing so I'll generally do 15-20 minutes.

I plan on taking it on some freshwater, running it for a while, then checking the temperature of the telltale before I proceed with more drastic diagnostics. I also want to take the cowling off and see if the block burns my hand after running it. I will keep ya'll posted once I get the chance to reevaluate.
 

trashcanslam

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Also, I don't think this deserves its own topic, and I don't think its related to the hot water whatsover, but I would like to run this by the community:

Previously I was using a Model No.: 211109308 9.3" diameter, 8 pitch Solas propeller. For my last trip I put on a Michigan Wheel PJ26 10" diameter, 7 pitch propeller. I got slightly better performance, but the motor sounded different threw up less water.

I just wanted to know if anyone can chime in on which propeller is better suited to the motor I have, if the performance-to-wear ratio is worth it, etc.

Thank you.
 

racerone

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The propeller attaches to the motor.----But the propeller fits the boat and the load !------What boat do you have ?
 

trashcanslam

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The propeller attaches to the motor.----But the propeller fits the boat and the load !------What boat do you have ?

I have 15' 4" Gheenoe Highsider. Very light boat, I think it weighs around 100-120 lbs empty. I don't lug much gear in it except for an icebox, rods, and an anchor upfront I use to balance it while underway.
 

thatone123

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MOD EDIT - Comment deleted. Why - Once again OFF TOPIC. Not one thing in the post to help the OP, which is why the forum exists. Do you understand?

My apologies, trash.
 
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