1985 Evinrude 115 - E115TLCO; prop shaft removal

Jachin

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Evinrude gear case - prop shaft removal. I've got a1985 E115TLCO with the gearcase down; prop off, bearing carrier, circlips, retainer, reverse gear, thrust washer and thrust bearing all out. Per the manual, I need to pull the shift rod UP, unscrew it, and then just pull the propeller shaft out. The shaft moves, forward and back by an inch or so, rotates freely - but won't come out. Found a Youtube video that says you need to push the shift rod DOWN (not up), but also says you have to remove the pinion gear. I've searched the old posts here, but don't find a conclusive answer. Can I remove the prop shaft WITHOUT taking off the pinion gear? What holds the shaft in the forward gear? Thanks in advance, starting to wonder if I'm in over my head.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Facts for you----------You have to remove the pinion and the driveshaft.-----You have to push the shift rod down before removing it.----Then the propshaft will fall out.
 

Jachin

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That you VERY much! I was feeling pretty strongly about having to remove the pinion gear first; but the manual actually said the shaft might be "frozen" (which does not appear to be) and that you have to attach a slide hammer to it and the shifter link and hammer it out. You spared me! Thanks for confirming the "down" on the shift rod as well.
 

Faztbullet

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Get yourself a FACTORY manual before you damage something $$$$$$ This is what it will look like once removed..

s-l300.jpg
 

racerone

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I would say the " manual " you have now is better used in the wee house with the 1/4 moon in the door.
 

Jachin

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Jan 17, 2020
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It's a Seloc publication - Johnson/Evinrude Outboard Tune-Up and Repair Manual by Joan & Clarence Coles. How do you identify "the real McCoy"; where do you get it - I don't see the offering on Evinrude.com
 

racerone

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Lots of SELOC manuals on the market.------That is because people " BUY THEM "-------Look for a factory manual on E-bay or search , search using google.------Ken Cook outboard manuals------- for factory manuals.
 
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Jachin

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Thanks again; already tried the EBay route - I'll save the search, but the Ken Cook should narrow things down. Would a Clymer be better than the one I've got? ....or still substandard?
 

racerone

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Most of these manual have some " mis-information "-----As you now understand.------Often good for use in the wee house with the 1/4 moon in the door.
 

Jachin

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Jan 17, 2020
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Thank you all. Disassembly complete. I'll communicate the progress on the overhaul as it progresses.
 

Jachin

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Jan 17, 2020
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No damaged parts found, a bit of heavy sludge. All cleaned up and reassembled on prop shaft. One interesting "hack" for someone new to this. Getting the shift arm back into the bearing housing while trying to hold the spring and ball check in place. The manual suggested a piece of 9/32" round bar stock and grinding a taper on the end of it to depress the ball and act as a guide for the shifter stem. Mine appears to be more like 13/32", and a rough size to find (I was going to use a machine bolt but I didn't have one appropriate).....so, I took a screwgun bit holder with a phillips bit in it, perfect diameter for the hole in the bearing housing, and the tip formed a nice taper to depress the ball and allow the shaft of the holder to slip in place. I pushed it partially through, took the tip out of the holder, and then pressed my shift rod through. Perfect!
 

chrisflyfishes

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Nov 15, 2020
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No damaged parts found, a bit of heavy sludge. All cleaned up and reassembled on prop shaft. One interesting "hack" for someone new to this. Getting the shift arm back into the bearing housing while trying to hold the spring and ball check in place. The manual suggested a piece of 9/32" round bar stock and grinding a taper on the end of it to depress the ball and act as a guide for the shifter stem. Mine appears to be more like 13/32", and a rough size to find (I was going to use a machine bolt but I didn't have one appropriate).....so, I took a screwgun bit holder with a phillips bit in it, perfect diameter for the hole in the bearing housing, and the tip formed a nice taper to depress the ball and allow the shaft of the holder to slip in place. I pushed it partially through, took the tip out of the holder, and then pressed my shift rod through. Perfect!
Jachin, we just bought a boat with the exact same motor. Hoping you are still monitoring this thread so I can ask you a couple of questions.
 
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