175 OceanPro quit and won't restart

[bjonesy21]

Had nice weather today so I was going to take the boat for a ride. It cranked up fine on second attempt and was idling well for about 5 minutes. I was just getting ready to untie it and it shut off. No sputtering, just like I flipped the switch. After that I could not get it to fire. Its turning over but it's like there is no spark. Don't know where to start troubleshooting.Please help.

 

[oldboat1]

Have fuel? (fresh fuel?) Safety lanyard and clip in place?

 

[bjonesy21]

Fresh fuel and the clip is in place. I moved it around a bit to make sure as that was my first thought.

 

[Faztbullet]

Check spark...if none then test power coil on stator winding(org wires)

 

[bjonesy21]

Check spark...if none then test power coil on stator winding(org wires)

What am I looking for across the orange wires?

 

[boobie]

Better off just checking the open air gap on a on a plug wire. Should jump a 7/16" open air gap. If it does that it eliminates the whole ignition system.

 

[bjonesy21]

Update: Disconnected the black/yellow kill circuit connector at the motor. Engine fired right up. Re-connected it but it kept running, used key to shut off. Tried to restart but no luck, had to disconnect wire again. Fired it up, re-connected the wire again, still kept running. This time used lanyard to shut it down. I would have thought if kill circuit was bad, the engine would shut back off when I re-connected the wire but it keeps running until I shut it off with the key or lanyard. Definite issue with the kill circuit though since the engine fires right up with it disconnected. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.

 

[dingbat]

Update: Disconnected the black/yellow kill circuit connector at the motor. Engine fired right up. Re-connected it but it kept running, used key to shut off. Tried to restart but no luck, had to disconnect wire again. Fired it up, re-connected the wire again, still kept running. This time used lanyard to shut it down. I would have thought if kill circuit was bad, the engine would shut back off when I re-connected the wire but it keeps running until I shut it off with the key or lanyard. Definite issue with the kill circuit though since the engine fires right up with it disconnected. Not sure where to go from here. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.

If your motor has the same “kill” setup as my OP 200, there is no electrical component to the kill switch.

Pulling the lanyard simply turns the key off. The motor will start back up if the kill lanyard is in place or not. I’ve not used the lanyard for mine in 20 years

 

[bjonesy21]

If your motor has the same “kill” setup as my OP 200, there is no electrical component to the kill switch.

Pulling the lanyard simply turns the key off. The motor will start back up if the kill lanyard is in place or not. I’ve not used the lanyard for mine in 20 years

Understood but something is keeping the engine from starting until I disconnect the black/yellow wire that is part of the kill circuit per the electrical diagram.

 

[dingbat]

Understood but something is keeping the engine from starting until I disconnect the black/yellow wire that is part of the kill circuit per the electrical diagram.

The key switch is the contactor for both the starter and the “stop” relay in the power pack.

Three scenarios:

1. The key switch is hanging up or bad.
2. There is a short on the black/white (grounding) circuit
3. The power pack is bad.
4. Shift switch is bad

Since you can manually reset the relay in the PP, I would assume the PP is functioning.

Have you checked the operation of the key switch?

Test procedures (stop circuit test) outlined in Section 3 of factory service manual

 

[bjonesy21]

The key switch is the contactor for both the starter and the “stop” relay in the power pack.

Three scenarios:

1. The key switch is hanging up or bad.
2. There is a short on the black/white (grounding) circuit
3. The power pack is bad.
4. Shift switch is bad

Since you can manually reset the relay in the PP, I would assume the PP is functioning.

Have you checked the operation of the key switch?

Test procedures (stop circuit test) outlined in Section 3 of factory service manual

UPDATE:
Turns out the black/yellow wire I was disconnecting goes to the shift switch. With the wire disconnected, the engine starts fine and you can reconnect it without the engine stopping. The manual I have says to perform an ohm test on the switch to determine if it is bad but does not state the impedance readings to look for. Any suggestions or do I just replace the switch at this point since taking it out of the equation results in the engine starting fine?

 

[dingbat]

UPDATE:
Turns out the black/yellow wire I was disconnecting goes to the shift switch. With the wire disconnected, the engine starts fine and you can reconnect it without the engine stopping. The manual I have says to perform an ohm test on the switch to determine if it is bad but does not state the impedance readings to look for. Any suggestions or do I just replace the switch at this point since taking it out of the equation results in the engine starting fine?

The shift switch is a simple contact closure. It either has continuity or it doesn’t.

The swift switch is used to momentarily shut down a bank of cylinders to allow the motor to drop into gear easier. Shouldn’t effect how the engine runs unless the switch sticks closed.

You still could have an issue with the power pack

 

[bjonesy21]

The shift switch is a simple contact closure. It either has continuity or it doesn’t.

The swift switch is used to momentarily shut down a bank of cylinders to allow the motor to drop into gear easier. Shouldn’t effect how the engine runs unless the switch sticks closed.

You still could have an issue with the power pack

With switch depressed I have 0 ohms. With it open I only have 3ohms. Not much difference there. I guess at this point I'll replace the switch and see..

 

[dingbat]

With switch depressed I have 0 ohms. With it open I only have 3ohms. Not much difference there. I guess at this point I'll replace the switch and see..

You check a switch for continuity not impedance

Remove the switch from the circuit (disconnect wires). Check continuity directly on switch terminals