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Taper Pin 300402 removal on 1984 E6RCRM 6hp Powerhead.

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  • Taper Pin 300402 removal on 1984 E6RCRM 6hp Powerhead.

    Dealing with a Driveshaft stuck in Crankshaft (flood damaged motor) I want to separate the 2 halves of Crankcase/Cylinder to get better access to the bottom of Crankshaft. I have removed the 6 Machine Screws 318622 on exterior of Crankcase/Cylinder plus I removed the 2 Machine Screws (p/n =?) that can be accessed only from the Intake Manifold side .

    I am a bit unsure which way to tap out the Taper Pin 300402 on starboard side. Exploded diagram seems to indicate the Tapered Pin is inserted from the front, but factory paint on the rear side of Pin and lack of paint on Front side of Pin indicates the Pin was inserted from Rear.

    Am I correct in thinking I should tap this Pin out by tapping/striking from the Front (Intake Manifold) side of engine?

    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    According to my OEM manual, the pin must be driven out from the back to the front of the crankcase.

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    • #3
      Diagram is correct. It was inserted from front (intake manifold) side and is removed by tapping on rear (cyl head) side.

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      • #4
        You don't have all the screws out. There are (4) 314951 screws and (6) 318622 screws

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        • #5
          I think you need 10 bolts on your work bench.

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          • #6
            Thanks all for the input. Yes I actually had 10 bolts removed. I miscounted/missed the 2 bolts topmost nearest Timing Plate.

            The Tapered Pin came out driving Rear-to-Front with only moderate "persuasion".

            I am able to start splitting the Cylinder/Crankcase about .040 inch near the top/flywheel mating surface. But I have another question (before I proceed incorrectly and risk breaking something); this powerhead is seized-up (from the saltwater during flood). Would any mechanical resistance to separating the 2 halves be only from that corrosion, or depending on the Crankshaft relative rotational position could there be impossible interference fit? Did the factory use gasket compound between the 2 halves of Crankcase/Cylinder? I see/used one good "pry point" near the Tapered Pin to get the 0.040 separation. Are there any other good pry points or tips for splitting the halves?

            Thanks for ongoing help.

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            • #7
              If you've moved it .040", the sealant is broken loose. It should lift right off. You do have the powerhead removed from the midsection and inner exhaust tube, don't you?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cprodave View Post
                Thanks all for the input. Yes I actually had 10 bolts removed. I miscounted/missed the 2 bolts topmost nearest Timing Plate.

                The Tapered Pin came out driving Rear-to-Front with only moderate "persuasion".

                I am able to start splitting the Cylinder/Crankcase about .040 inch near the top/flywheel mating surface. But I have another question (before I proceed incorrectly and risk breaking something); this powerhead is seized-up (from the saltwater during flood). Would any mechanical resistance to separating the 2 halves be only from that corrosion, or depending on the Crankshaft relative rotational position could there be impossible interference fit? Did the factory use gasket compound between the 2 halves of Crankcase/Cylinder? I see/used one good "pry point" near the Tapered Pin to get the 0.040 separation. Are there any other good pry points or tips for splitting the halves?

                Thanks for ongoing help.
                I have a 1984 6 hp

                You will have to
                • remove the lower unit, c/w driveshaft and shift rod **
                • remove the whole powerhead, c/w inner exhaust tube & water tube, ( 6 bolts)
                • remove the inner exhaust tube ( 4 bolts)
                ** If the drive shaft is rusted into the crankshaft you won't be able to remove the lower unit without brute force which will result in the water pump impeller drive key damaging the impeller housing ... you will need a new one.

                I have never gone so far as separating the crankcase halves but I guess you also have to remove the flywheel and the entire magneto assembly
                Last edited by Vic.S; September 14th, 2019, 03:05 AM.

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                • #9
                  I did already remove the flywheel, magneto assembly and (I think) the midsection bolts. I missed (duh) the inner exhaust tube bolts. Those are quite inaccessible, having limited room to get an angled 3/8inch box end wrench in there--I got 1 out by tapping on the wrench with a small ball peen hammer. If I get 1 more bolt out then the remaining 4 will not impede splitting the Crankcase/Cylinder (from what I can see). I am letting some Lucas penetrating oil soak...will update tomorrow or Monday.

                  I will save the brute force method as a last resort...I'd like to avoid buying a new Impeller Housing. Good idea though.

                  Thanks all...

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                  • #10
                    I am not at all sure getting half the crankcase off will help you if the aim is to get at where the drive shaft is rusted into the crankshaft. unless you are hoping to then lift the crankshaft c/w drive shaft away from the other half .leaving the pistons and rods in place
                    Even if successful I think you are making a mountain of work for yourself which could be avoided by wrecking a $16 pump housing,

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                    • #11
                      ^^^^ +1

                      And I am the original "do it the hard way" guy.
                      You know that you are a very poor driver when Siri says : "In 1/4 mile pull over and let me out...."

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                      • #12
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                        Vic, thanks for reminder that the Pump Housing is only around $16. 'Not sure what I was thinking/remembering---on a 1969 6hp I worked on recently the early p/n housing is/was around $50 (if I could even find one) although a subsequent design for that 1969 motor can use a cheaper pump. Or maybe I was thinking of the Gearcase Cover and Seal (which sits below the Pump Housing) which costs around $106. Anyhow, yes $16 would be cheap compared to doing an unnecessary Powerhead disassembly.

                        Because this outboard was submerged in saltwater during Hurricane Florence (Sept 2018) and I acquired the outboard around May 2019 I did need to do a complete teardown. I got the forward half (Intake Manifold side) of the Cylinder/Crankase separated yesterday. They are now soaking with penetrant spray. Unfortunately thus far, it looks like this may become a parts motor.

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