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starting revival of 1970 Johnson 60hp

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  • starting revival of 1970 Johnson 60hp

    HI I'm starting to try to revive a 60hp Johnson outboard. I know nothing about it. I have several questions already: 1. What is the black round "vacuum switch" on the right side of the engine? The rubber cover is hanging by a thread. I took it off the block (two large short screws) and it has a two wire connector hanging. I can't find the other side of a connector to plug it into. 2.I also have a wire going across the top of the long horizontal connector "bus" on the right side connected to nothing. It comes out of the wiring harness on top of the connector "bus" and has a female spade connector at its end. What's that for?
    3. The motor has hydroelectric shift - if I apply 12volts to the red and green wires going to the lower unit should I hear it shifting? I don't . BTW the motor didn't come with the remote shifter or ignition switch so I"m trying to deal with not having that. I connect the two big battery cables to a batter and have gotten the motor to spin by connecting the red and white wires.
    Thanks so much for any help-

  • #2
    1. Something's fishy there. The vacuum switch was used on 1968-69 55hp motors, not on '70 60hp. Purpose was to hold it in neutral when you turned the key off. Without it, it would shift into forward the instant you turned the key off. Harmless, but very annoying. The 60hp uses a different method (diodes) to accomplish the same thing.

    2. No idea. Picture? what is it connected to on the strip?

    3. No, you probably can't hear it. It shifts by hydraulic pressure from an oil pump. Has to be running for pump to pump. The electric part only closes a couple of oil flow control valves

    4. Be extremely careful with makeshift wiring. A mistake can cost you big bucks.

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    • #3
      Wires going to the lower unit should be green and blue.-------It is not uncommon for an owner to mess up the wiring on a HYDRO -ELECTRIC shift motor.----The motor needs to turn in order to develop oil pressure to shift out of forward.----It will always be in forward gear when engine is stopped !-----The round black thingy is a vacuum switch.-------When you shut the key off with the motor revving fast , it goes to forward gear.-----This " vacuum switch " holds it in neutral until it is safer to go into forward.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys.I guess I will have to get an ignition switch and shifter box and wire them up. I will try to get the engine started before worrying about the lower unit and shift mechanism. Evidently the vacuum switch is not necessarily required on my engine. That leaves the wire hanging in the breeze at the connector bar. If you look carefully at the picture, there's a horizontal wire going across the connector bar and ending towards the right with a heavy black insulating sheath and and spade connector at the end.

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        • #5
          The end of the wire is hanging in front of the black round throttle pivot linkage.

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          • #6
            Can't tell for sure, but suspect it is the safety switch wire. But it looks like it may be too short for that. Can't tell.

            Here is the wiring diagram for a 1970-71 60hp if that for sure is what you have. Probably is, because I think I see the "monkey nutz" shift diodes.

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            • #7
              Model # off this motor is ?

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              • #8
                Model number is 60ESL70B. For the blocking diode vs. vacuum switch question, the Seloc manual implies it has both. However this could be misleading instructions. There is definitely a mounting spot for the vacuum switch, I just can't find anywhere to plug it in.

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                • #9
                  Had to think about the "monkey nuts" reference but not for long -yes it has that scrotum looking thing just above the amplifier lol.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by vg569 View Post
                    Model number is 60ESL70B. For the blocking diode vs. vacuum switch question, the Seloc manual implies it has both. However this could be misleading instructions. There is definitely a mounting spot for the vacuum switch, I just can't find anywhere to plug it in.
                    They never used both. As said, the switch was used on 55hp. Maybe somebody has put a 55 powerhead on your motor?? A "Blocking diode" near the key switch is not the same thing as the "Nutz" diodes anyway. I could sit here and explain how it all works. Maybe later.

                    EDIT: Let me back up and clarify. A "Blocking Diode" near the key switch was used on BOTH the 55 and 60hp motors and in the case of the 60hp it worked along with the shift diodes at the motor. So a 60hp has a blocking diode AND shift diodes as the book says. But a 55hp has a blocking diode AND a vacuum switch (instead of shift diodes). Are we confused yet?
                    Last edited by F_R; September 11th, 2019, 06:06 AM.

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                    • #11
                      I actually get what you're saying and appreciate the info F R. That wiring diagram is much easier to read than the one in the Seloc manual.
                      Maybe the best explanation is a 55 powerhead since the block definitely has a place for the vacuum switch but no apparent connector receptacle in the wiring harness. Could I have a 6o wiring harness on a 55 block? Would that explain the wire dangling out of the bundle on the left top of the connector bar?

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                      • #12
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                        I will check for continuity between wire coming out of the starter solenoid and the dangling wire (safety switch wire).

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