73 65hp Evinrude Electric Choke Setup

Bluewater84

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MN#65373R. I’m not sure where the Black and White were coming from the throttle controls connect to the choke solenoid. Do I run them back to the purple/white or purple yellow wire? Do the connect to the battery? Thanks
 

F_R

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So you are trying to connect a non-compatible control to your motor, right? You should be using a control with a yellow plug. So I cannot answer your question except to say that there are two wires coming from the choke solenoid, Connect the choke switch so it feeds both of the choke solenoid wires at the same time. That is the gist of the factory service bulletin which concerns eliminating the choke warn-up switch.

Good luck with the rest of your venture.
 

racerone

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No---- the 73 model 65 HP uses a red plug on the motor and the control box !!
 

F_R

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Sorry, my mistake. '72 uses the yellow plug. Nevertheless the control wires colors should match the motor wire colors, right? OP is trying to connect black and white wires to choke. Normally, black is ground and white is start solenoid.
 

racerone

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Without pictures there is no telling what folks are trying to do.-----Wiring and 12 volts are a black art in many cases.
 

Bluewater84

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It is the original Evinrude power pilot control. When I push the key in I get nothing from the electric choke. I’m trying to determine if it is a switch. I was told when I got the boat the black and white wire that were capped were the electric choke power. I’m aware of the announcement about the wiring. I’m just wondering if the wires are indeed to the electric choke. I’m pretty sure the switch in the control box is shot. Was going to test with ohmmeter.
 

F_R

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All I can tell you is the black and white wires are not for the choke. Beyond that, I don't know what you have. Yep, break out that multimeter.
 

Daviet

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Don't have the manual available, but I think the choke uses a purple/white wire for the power side.
 

Bluewater84

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Here are a few pics of the item in question. Not sure if this is in fact a choke switch or what. After digging I found the white wire I spoke of is actually a gray wire that was tied in to with white. The black obviously is a ground. I’m just not sure what it is and if it has anything to do with the electric choke. Thanks
 

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F_R

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The round thing in your picture is the overheat horn. But the white/grey wires aren't connected to it are they? Anyhoo, by original color code, white is start, grey is tachometer.
 

Bluewater84

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Ok great. Now that We’ve got that figured out. Back to the issue. Why am I not hearing the click or seeing engagement on the choke when I push the key in? Do I need to switch the wires we spoke of earlier and try again? Is there a power source I am missing? Do I check voltage at the back of the choke solenoid?
 

racerone

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When you turn the key to "on " does choke solenoid pull in halfway, yes or no ?-----Or use a jumper wire and put 12 volts directly to solenoid terminal, what happens then ?
 

F_R

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Getting down to the nitty gritty, when you turn the key on when motor is cold, there should be 12V applied to the purple/yellow wire on the choke solenoid, via the thermal witch. That should pull the plunger half way in. Push the key in and 12V should also be applied to the purple/white wire on the choke solenoid, in addition to the 12V on purple/yellow. That should slam the choke closed.

The above is for the original set-up, not modified.

After modification, there will be 12V applied to both purple/white AND purple/yellow wires on the choke solenoid, but only if key is turned on and pushed in. If yours is not modified, I suggest you do so.

That's what is required, pure and simple. Beyond that, we don't know what kind of wiring mess you have. If you can't figure it out, perhaps you need to consult somebody familiar with 12V circuitry.
 

Bluewater84

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Ok. Sorry for the delayed post. It’s been a minute since I was able to get to it. I have the electric choke working now. Switching the wires seem to work. I can get it running but it idles high and runs rough and the throttle doesn’t seem to be working properly. I’m about to do a compression test. I will update the numbers. After doing some research, I’m thinking it might be a gasket.
 

Bluewater84

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Ok so I just did a compression test and it’s saying 30-30-0? Did I do that right? No compression but still runs and idles somewhat? Is this a leaky gasket?
 

Tim Frank

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Can you post a brief summary of motor history?
How long you have had it....has it ever run OK for you ....etc.

Those compression numbers, if accurate, are not going to work at all.
Gasket? Maybe....or worse.

Try the test again with a different gauge to confirm readings. Many a motor has been torn down because of compression readings when it should have been the gauge that was torn down and rebuilt. :)
 

racerone

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You should be reading 130 PSI + on that motor.----I think you need to pull the cylinder head off for inspection.
 

Daviet

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Might try another compression tester, if you get the same readings, time to pull the head and take a look inside.
 
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