Evinrude 150 not staying cranked - electrical issue

[AmyLou]

i have a 1996 Evinrude 150.
It cranks and engine runs pretty well - as long as I continue to hold the key in the on position.

So - I cranked it and hold key in starting position and bam - engine runs. Let go of the key - instantly dies.

Have replaced the ignition switch and starter. Battery is connected properly. The starter being engaged is the only thing keeping it running when I hold the key.

Any suggestions?

I have some some other ideas to try but I want to see if I’m missing something in my thought patterns.

 

[oldboat1]

Check keyswitch wiring? (start position is a momentary switch, unlike the run position -- would need to hold it in the start position to maintain current, but not the run position).

 

[AmyLou]

I did put in a new ignition switch but didn’t test the wires individually. The ignition switch is just plug in on the back side but the run position wire could be bad. Had not thought of that. Thanks.

Right now, my thoughts are possible power pack, stator or wiring somewhere.

 

[AmyLou]

Ok. If I look at the wiring diagram then the start position is only using one additional wire (neutral safety switch) than the on position. And the start position works. Which would lead me to believe that it’s not the ignition switch - unless one of the 12v wires splits off somewhere. :faint2: researching the wiring.

 

[oldboat1]

Well, A would be the run and accessories position (ignition on), S would be the momentary start position, B is the incoming power, and M is negative (off position).

I'm confused about your claim to hold it in the start position to keep it running. (Believe the starter would continually engage or reengage if the engine fired and kicked the starter gear down.)

Wait for addit. suggestions....

 

[AmyLou]

Yeah. I need to video it.
if I hold the key in start (all the way to the left) - it’ll crank and run. But as soon as I let it go and it goes back to on the engine dies.

Thanks

 

[Faztbullet]

Check wiring first t...if ok then the power coil(org wires) on stator is bad. The starter solenoid applies 12V to pack when cranking and once engine starts the coil takes over.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Your actual statement of post #1: "i have a 1996 Evinrude 150. It cranks and engine runs pretty well - as long as I continue to hold the key in the on position."

In post #1 as directly above, you state, in not so many words, that if you press the key in while the key is in the ON position, the engine continues to run... At least that what I think you're trying to say, and if so.... That act causes fuel to completely bypass the carburetors via the Fuel Primer Solenoid to enter the intake manifold which indicates fouled carburetors.

 

[AmyLou]

Check wiring first t...if ok then the power coil(org wires) on stator is bad. The starter solenoid applies 12V to pack when cranking and once engine starts the coil takes over.

Thanks. I’ve had someone else tell me the stator and then someone else tell me stator has nothing to do with that. Lol. ****. I need to YouTube how to test the stator. But I’m about to lay money on it that you’re right.

 

[AmyLou]

Your actual statement of post #1: "i have a 1996 Evinrude 150. It cranks and engine runs pretty well - as long as I continue to hold the key in the on position."

In post #1 as directly above, you state, in not so many words, that if you press the key in while the key is in the ON position, the engine continues to run... At least that what I think you're trying to say, and if so.... That act causes fuel to completely bypass the carburetors via the Fuel Primer Solenoid to enter the intake manifold which indicates fouled carburetors.

I don’t press it in. (I have but at this point it’s not staying cranked either way) Just turning from off to on to start. It’ll crank when i get to ‘start’ but as soon as I let the key go and it bounces back to ‘on’ then it dies. Hopefully that makes sense. Im not good at explaining this. I’ll try to get a video tomorrow.

 

[AmyLou]

Your actual statement of post #1: "i have a 1996 Evinrude 150. It cranks and engine runs pretty well - as long as I continue to hold the key in the on position."

In post #1 as directly above, you state, in not so many words, that if you press the key in while the key is in the ON position, the engine continues to run... At least that what I think you're trying to say, and if so.... That act causes fuel to completely bypass the carburetors via the Fuel Primer Solenoid to enter the intake manifold which indicates fouled carburetors.

Also - the primer solenoid was cracked. I changed that out. That part is working like a champ now. Not that it couldn’t still be carb related. I appreciate any insight on what might be the culprit. So it gets my brain thinking outside of the box when whatever i try doesn’t work.

 

[oldboat1]

"Cranking" is usually taken to mean turning the motor over with the starter. It would not be correct to say the engine is running while cranking. If your motor is not running unless you are cranking it in the "S" position, it is not running.

So if your engine doesn't operate in the run position on the keyswitch ("A") on yours, it isn't running. Which is to say, it hasn't been started, not "catching" or however else you might put it.

I would start by measuring spark with an adjustable open air tester (need about 1/2 inch). Additionally, the motor has to spin over fast with the starter (upwards of 200rpms) for it to run. Compression is always a potential issue, and should be checked. Then consider fuel quality (fresh) and fuel supply to the engine. Oil mix ratio is 50:1 if mixing it yourself (2.5-3 oz. per gal. of gas).

 

[iggyw1]

Yeah. I need to video it.
if I hold the key in start (all the way to the left) - it’ll crank and run. But as soon as I let it go and it goes back to on the engine dies.

Thanks

Just a thought here because I am NOT an outboard mechanic, but trying to help you out. You stated that it runs when you hold the key into the start position all the way to the left. ALL of the outboards I have ever seen, the start position is all the way to the right, not left, or am I wrong on this)? Maybe your wires are hooked up wrong if you need to start your motor by turning the key all the way to the left, and when you let go of the key, is it going into the 'off' ' position instead of on'??????
Like I said , it is just a thought I had.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Okay... Somewhat confusing due to improper use of terminology used but I think I got the gist of it now. However, keep in mind how easy it is to confuse us older guys. You need to be precise.

Keeping it simple, regardless of the cause... The engine is not seized. The engine does "crank" over with the electric starter. However, the engine does not "start" and run on its own. When the key is released from the START position and returned to the ON position, the engine stops turning.
************************************************** ***********
Now, question time to which we expect answers.

1 - Is the above explanation about it?

2 - Does it sound like the cylinders are firing, in essence the engine trying to run as long as the electric starter is cranking the engine?

3 - Closely observe the stator under the flywheel. If it is dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack's capacitor. In which case, the stator would require replacing. Does this sticky dripping substance situation exist?

4 - A slow cranking engine would result in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition. The engine must crank over with the electric starter at least 300 rpm in order for a good stator to energize the powerpack. Is that engine cranking over fast?

5 - At a fast cranking speed, with "all" spark plugs removed, the spark must jump a 7/16" Air Gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! NOTE that the 7/16" Air Gap is important... nothing else will do. You can use the tip of a #2 philips screwdriver inserted into the coiled spring connector inside of the spark plug boot, then hold the screwdriver shank that approximate distance from the powerhead as a Air Gap test tool. Does the spark jump that 7/16" Air Gap as explained above?

6 - Now.... .What did you find?

 

[AmyLou]

Just a thought here because I am NOT an outboard mechanic, but trying to help you out. You stated that it runs when you hold the key into the start position all the way to the left. ALL of the outboards I have ever seen, the start position is all the way to the right, not left, or am I wrong on this)? Maybe your wires are hooked up wrong if you need to start your motor by turning the key all the way to the left, and when you let go of the key, is it going into the 'off' ' position instead of on'??????
Like I said , it is just a thought I had.

Lol! No - it’s to the right. Good heavens. I should get off this forum now since I can’t tell my left from my right. :facepalm: I’m the one wired backwards.

 

[AmyLou]

"Cranking" is usually taken to mean turning the motor over with the starter. It would not be correct to say the engine is running while cranking. If your motor is not running unless you are cranking it in the "S" position, it is not running.

So if your engine doesn't operate in the run position on the keyswitch ("A") on yours, it isn't running. Which is to say, it hasn't been started, not "catching" or however else you might put it.

I would start by measuring spark with an adjustable open air tester (need about 1/2 inch). Additionally, the motor has to spin over fast with the starter (upwards of 200rpms) for it to run. Compression is always a potential issue, and should be checked. Then consider fuel quality (fresh) and fuel supply to the engine. Oil mix ratio is 50:1 if mixing it yourself (2.5-3 oz. per gal. of gas).

Thank you! Yes - my terminology needs a lot of work. Hence the ‘cadet’ in my profile....in which I’m trying to figure out how to add the word ‘space’ in front of that cadet! :lol: I’m on a basic level here and learning. But i promise I’m listening to everything you’re telling me.

I’ll definitely check those things! Appreciate you taking the time to respond and figure out my verbiage.

 

[AmyLou]

Okay... Somewhat confusing due to improper use of terminology used but I think I got the gist of it now. However, keep in mind how easy it is to confuse us older guys. You need to be precise.

Keeping it simple, regardless of the cause... The engine is not seized. The engine does "crank" over with the electric starter. However, the engine does not "start" and run on its own. When the key is released from the START position and returned to the ON position, the engine stops turning.
************************************************** ***********
Now, question time to which we expect answers.

1 - Is the above explanation about it?

2 - Does it sound like the cylinders are firing, in essence the engine trying to run as long as the electric starter is cranking the engine?

3 - Closely observe the stator under the flywheel. If it is dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack's capacitor. In which case, the stator would require replacing. Does this sticky dripping substance situation exist?

4 - A slow cranking engine would result in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition. The engine must crank over with the electric starter at least 300 rpm in order for a good stator to energize the powerpack. Is that engine cranking over fast?

5 - At a fast cranking speed, with "all" spark plugs removed, the spark must jump a 7/16" Air Gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! NOTE that the 7/16" Air Gap is important... nothing else will do. You can use the tip of a #2 philips screwdriver inserted into the coiled spring connector inside of the spark plug boot, then hold the screwdriver shank that approximate distance from the powerhead as a Air Gap test tool. Does the spark jump that 7/16" Air Gap as explained above?

6 - Now.... .What did you find?

This is beautiful and exactly what I needed. My terminology is an obstacle. I still call things ‘do-hickies’ and ‘thing-a-mejigs’. I am new to this as a whole. I do have physical help but he doesn’t work on outboards much so is stumped too. In saying that - bear with me and thanks for taking the time to put in an understandable order.

At this point - can only answer a couple of questions until I can get back out to the boat.

1 - yes. What you summarized above is exactly what I was trying to say.

2 - yes. In my terms - if you didn’t know i was holding the key - you would think the engine was operating fairly normally. Cylinders are firing. It is trying to run as long as the electric starter is cranking the engine.

3-5 - I need to go reevaluate to give an educated answer so bear with me and I’ll be back on those.

thank you again for putting it this way. Helped my brain a lot and I’m working to trouble shoot. I’ll be back!!

 

[oldboat1]

Joe's questions are right on point, and will look forward to what you find.

I keep a pic of one of these handy to show folks what a simple tester is (about $10 or so at an auto parts store). The screwdriver test Joe describes is effective, but the little tester thing might be a tad more elegant....

(Edit: BTW, all plugs out for testing [compression testing too], and keep sparking away from open plug holes!)

 

[CatTwentyTwo]

2 - Cylinders are firing. It is trying to run as long as the electric starter is cranking the engine.

That seems a little strange. The way my 94 175 Johnson worked was when cranking the engine over with the starter as soon as the first cylinder fired the starter would drop out and you had to turn the key to off before it would engage again.

 

[Joe Reeves]

That seems a little strange. The way my 94 175 Johnson worked was when cranking the engine over with the starter as soon as the first cylinder fired the starter would drop out and you had to turn the key to off before it would engage again.

Quite right... which leads me to believe that perhaps "AmyLou" has a slow cranking engine (under 300 rpm) and what is actually being encountered is the effects of compression while being cranked.