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Stuck Cylinder Head Bolt 1969 Johnson 6HP.

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  • Stuck Cylinder Head Bolt 1969 Johnson 6HP.

    A couple weeks back on a short run from dock my Model 6R69M suddenly quit with signs of overheating (engine quit, was very hot to touch and there was slight smoking around powerhead. I rowed home and tested in water tank. Engine was not making any "mist" (this engine has no peephole but has "mist" setudnp instead) indicating inadequate water flow. I removed thermostat cover and found extensive salt etc corrosion. I cleaned the thermostat cavity thoroughly but couldn't remove the cylinder head (one bolt/screw stuck) to do a deeper cleaning of the water jacket areas. I replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket/o-ring plus the thermostat cover gasket. Engine starts fine but still overheats. There is no mist coming out. I pushed a stiff wire up the mist hole and still no mist (I have found this technique often clears debris/buildup in peepholes).

    So here is the question: should I risk breaking off the one stubborn Cylinder Head Screw p/n 308728 or should I separate the powerhead from Main Drive Shaft to attempt cleanout from underneath in those areas? I am unsure if powerhead has ever been separated on this engine (a mechanic replaced the water pump around 5 years ago. Unsure on this design if pump/impeller can be replaced without separating powerhead from Drive Shaft).

    If I do attempt to remove the stuck cylinder head screw (other 7 of 8 screws have all been loosened) what is the best technique? Should I use Impact Driver with 1/2drive 3/8 socket vs. 3/8 socket with Breaker Bar? I have been soaking the stubborn screw with Liquid Wrench, transmission fluid etc for at least 1 week, but this screw is so tight I doubt that even capillary action is getting fluid in where it can do any good.

    Thanks for any input.

  • #2
    Powerhead does not need to be removed to change pump impeller.-----Drill the head off the stuck bolt.-----Remove cylinder head.-----Now use heat around the part of the block with stuck bolt.----Remove bolt with vicegrip.

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    • #3
      Refinish cylinder head and install with improved new gasket.----Water is supposed to pour out with the exhaust and not just " mist " with the exhaust.

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      • #4
        I used the old tried and true KROIL penetrating oil on 4 stuck bolts on a lower unit with a breaker bar lately. Gets it done eventually and a lot of workout too. RO's method seems to be another good one too.

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        • #5
          try 1 good whack with a heavy hammer. make sure you hit it flush and don't hit the cyl. head, just the bolt. sometimes a good inward strike will break them free.

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          • #6
            A five year old water pump?... Sitting or in use, five years of either is enough reason to replace it.

            Nobody's mentioned it... unless I missed it somehow. Normally heat applied via a hand held propane torch on the aluminum surrounding the bolt is the method to help break it free.
            Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?

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            • #7
              Read post # 2 ???

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              • #8
                Originally posted by racerone View Post
                ----Remove bolt with vicegrip.
                Vicegrip is a good description of what Jeffrey Epstein and his buddies received from the minor girls he recruited. A visegrip should have been used on the s.o.b. (or Joe’s hand held torch….)


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                • #9
                  Everybody works to different standards.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by racerone View Post
                    Read post # 2 ???
                    No... I started to and just got to the part where one drills the head off... and about that time a old girlfriend stopped around just for old time sake. Hadn't seen her in years! Beautiful as ever, a body you wouldn't believe. The reason I say a "old girlfriend"... I really felt that we shouldn't be a couple as I was strongly suspicious she was a retired call girl and a nymphomaniac to boot,,, and within our first week together, I developed this iron clad feeling that I wasn't going to survive the month and it would be best to go our separate ways.

                    Anyhow, we talked for hours (That's what she calls it now)... and my mind became befuddled to a point where post #2 got lost in the mail... or something. I will make a strong attempt to be more observant in the future Racer... Honest!
                    Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe Reeves View Post
                      A five year old water pump?... Sitting or in use, five years of either is enough reason to replace it.

                      Nobody's mentioned it... unless I missed it somehow. Normally heat applied via a hand held propane torch on the aluminum surrounding the bolt is the method to help break it free.
                      I would start with the 5 year old water pump. Whether it solves the problem or not. As for the stuck bolt.. those suck. I would suggest some sort of controlled impact; either an air/electric impact set to low rpm or a handheld impact screwdriver with a socket on it. If you do not want to try that, grind it off, remove the cover and bank on kroil and some vice grips to twist the bolt out.

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                      • #12
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                        try freeze then heat … keyboard airdusters at dollar store are $4 ...held upside down they will freeze the bolt then try a heat shock while adding loose nut type products

                        I had great success on a stuck tire bolt using…..snowblower teflon spay the stuff clear and slick

                        patience brings joy….

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