1969 Johnson 55hp Commercial wiring and shifting?

Lablitzwing

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Jul 20, 2016
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Hi all,

Just came across an old Johnson 55hp from 1969. It turns over if I jump the starter solenoid but the original wiring harness was butchered. I managed to get another one similar but I don't believe this one has the wiring for the Hydroelectric shifting. Is there a way to add that in or wire it independently?

On top of that the wiring looks like it was butchered by rodents so I'm going to have to rewire it completely. Anyone have a wiring diagram handy? Or even better, pictures of a properly wired similar motor.

I'm looking for tips on how to replace the wires going into the black engine side connector plug. As an alternative, would there be any known issue with wiring it all directly using insulated connectors and eliminating the round red plug all together?
 

Tim Frank

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Short answer is you should probably be changing every wire that you can. BTDTGTTS....
Wiring of that age is really suspect...
Do a search om my user name and keyword " wiring harness". Most of your questions are answered in several posts that I responded to.
Not sure what you mean when you talk about a black side-plug and the switch to talking about a round red plug.
You may have mismatched wiring and harnesses. If you do not have the shift box from that motor I am not sure what your next step will be.
If you have a phone number for MacGyver, that would be helpful. :)

The '69 55 HP was NOT a "COMMERCIAL" model. Those are a later version.
 

Lablitzwing

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I have the original control box for the motor, with the plug for the electric shift, and the original harness but the previous owner, but they chopped off everything past on the control side. I picked up a new harness (P/N - 173501 - guy at marina said it would work on this motor as well for the basic functions.) which is where I got the black motor side plug and red control side plug. I'm wondering how to replace the wires on the plugs, can the terminals be removed?

From what I can tell for the hydroelectric shift, I just need to hook a power cable into the correct slot on the three pin plug then connect the other two slots into the correct wires coming from the engine and it should work. Alternatively it seems you can connect it to a three position switch but it's not a safe way of doing things .
 

Tim Frank

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I have the original control box for the motor, with the plug for the electric shift, and the original harness but the previous owner, but they chopped off everything past on the control side. I picked up a new harness (P/N - 173501 - guy at marina said it would work on this motor as well for the basic functions.) which is where I got the black motor side plug and red control side plug. I'm wondering how to replace the wires on the plugs, can the terminals be removed?

From what I can tell for the hydroelectric shift, I just need to hook a power cable into the correct slot on the three pin plug then connect the other two slots into the correct wires coming from the engine and it should work. Alternatively it seems you can connect it to a three position switch but it's not a safe way of doing things .

No idea what you are saying.

1. Is the problem on the motor side of the big plug? i.e. is the wiring mess-up in the motor?

2. Do the red and black plugs mate? IMO you would be better to get a terminal block from a later model of that 3 cylinder design...say a 65 HP and make your connections there....with ring connectors and shrink tubing.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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I can not remember a " commercial " model in 69.-----The red plug does not match up with black plug on motor.----Need to make up a terminal strip if you want to use a red plug control box on this motor.------Shift function will have to be from seperate switching.
 

racerone

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I do not recall the 69 models with a red plug.----Red plug came out in 1973 model year .----No electric shift in 1973 model year.
 

Tim Frank

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The '68 model had a black plug that was rectangular in cross-section.
The plug connected inside the cowling.

Step one on this project IMO would be to thoroughly inspect the internal wiring....is the insulation still sound?
After 30 years, my motor had insulation that just crumbled to dust when you rubbed it.

Replace everything you can.

If the black plug is still on the harness running back from the controls, check the length compared to length of your boat.
There could be 3-4 feet of extra ....you can cut the plug of, and use the extra length to rewire under the hood. The beauty of that is that you maintain the original wiring colour codes.
 

Lablitzwing

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I guess I'm not good at explaining lol. I may just do the terminal block like was suggested, or use Bullet connectors.

The wiring is shot inside. Insulation broken, strands frayed, some hanging on by almost nothing anymore. So it does all need to be replaced. Looks like a rat or squirrel at it.

The wiring harness in the actual motor has the black plug. The boat side harness i purchased (OMC 0173501 - Single lever Controls 55-235hp) has the red plug. The plugs do mate. The boat side harness does not connect to the control box, it comes with an ignition prewired and horn assembly. There are a couple wires lose on it but I believe they are for gauges. The boat side wiring harness that came with the engine has the battery cables, black plug but all the wires that go to the controls are cut at about 2' length. I'm thinking I'm going to cannibalize the remaining wires in that harness to rewire the engine, then maybe chop the red plug off, install bullet connectors and direct connect that way.
 

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Tim Frank

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Check with one of the "boneyards" and see what the cost of a used but complete control set might be. Would save a lot of time and might not be as $$$ as you'd think.
You would have a better job....

If you proceed with the parts you have now, I would use ring connectors and shrink tubing.... on a terminal block. Those bullet connectors are corrosion-prone... IMO
 
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