1996 omc sunbird/ 88 spl frustrating weekend

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
Hey all I am new here but figured id share some frustration. Purchased this sunbird from a friend of a friend, carbs supposedly gone through rectifier fuel pump etc. From the start the 88 spl never started well, definitely needed to be in neutral with some extra throttle then would kick over. No big deal used to it and was manageable. also slightly above idle in gear about canal cruising speed 5 mph or so it would have a stumble every 15 -20 seconds, yet again got used to it and managed to deal with it, slightly lower throttle it would be fine slightly higher it would be fine. Always ran like a top @ WOT, pushed the 17' sunbird to about 33-34mph or so.
Now onto the weekend, Beach area we go to and hang is shallow waters for sure been there in this boat several times and even in my 08' regal 2250 I recently sold, just get close trim up and shut it down never a problem. Now we were there for the day motor trimmed up didn't think anything of it, when we went to leave had a hard time starting, (trimmed down so water pickup was in water but still up enough to avoid hitting bottom). finally got it fired up let it sit for a few pushed into deeper water and went to go off, whelp that didn't go as planned motor was trying to cut out no matter what I did noticed the telltale wasn't great then suddenly lost trim and cut out. managed to get it started again with throttle and manually set trim down jumping across relay with relay out, got it home then started inspecting.
Found that it had gotten hot enough to melt (3) wires that come from the trim control box on rear of motor were relays were, these wires were laying on top of the cylinder head, made the repairs to them properly and trim functions perfect again. Now go for a test run motor does the same off idle stumble hasn't changed at WOT it doesn't skip a beat same 33-34 mph came back in and doing some maneuvering at the dock going to neutral and drive and reverse idle is lower than before and cut out (never happened before always stayed running) managed to get it to the dock and fired back up, checked cylinder head temps with infrared laser at idle both around 140-145 from side to side. now I am no expert with these motors by any means however I have more or less built my race/street car notchback from motor assembly to fuel system plumbing etc. did some searching online found these motors aren't fans of ngk plugs and of course ngkBR9HS 10 plugs are in it. question is more or less where would you guys start. I appreciate any help as I am not a parts changer by any means and don't wish to be, just looking for what some of you more experienced Johnson guys would start with. Thank you
 

kenmyfam

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
14,385
Spark plug condition, spark test, fuel delivery from pump and compression test. Get some info on this and you will get a lot of valuable feedback from there. Any other history will help too.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
7,990
I would ask what your starting procedure is because it is carburated and will need both choke and throttle to start when cold. Get rid of the NGK plugs and get the correct champion. Do a compression test first because those motors have a reputation for breaking piston rings. I would also replace your waterpump after the compression test.
 

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
Hey boys thanks for the reply’s, just an update did a compression test and results as follows:
cyl-1=100psi
cyl-2=110psi
cyl-3=110psi
cyl-4=110psi
also just put in a new set of champion ql77jc4’s gapped @.030
still the same result no difference, wot runs very good. At idle and just slightly above runs like crap. Stumbles/dies going into gear. Keep in mind this never actually died before I got it hot, only after...still idled like crap but wouldn’t die. These have the primer solenoid so typically I start it by going to neutral with throttle up halfway or so and hold the key in for 5 seconds then release and start. Usually goes but not a very happy starting motor for sure. Water pump, fuel pump, rectifier, and carbs supposedly done last season just FYI, not that it means a damn. Thanks guys I appreciate any help.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
7,990
well your starting procedure needs to change. Forget about holding the key in for 5 seconds it does nothing. The key needs to be held in while the motor is turning over. The primer is only a a valve not a pump it opens when the key is pushed, but fuel does not move through it until the motor is turning. Look for any broken/loose carb linkages. I would also re-test compression with another gauge because that is on the low side. What is your idle rpm in gear and warm. Did anyone do a link and sync on the carbs after they were rebuilt. Also make sure the control cable clamp under the hood is tight.
 

kenmyfam

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
14,385
Run some seafoam through it. A good decarb may clean it out for you. Just a suggestion that does not involve major teardown.
 

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
10-4 will note that for now on starting wise that makes perfect sense. I will also check compression again with my buddies snapon tester vs my noname oldie. The linkages all seem to have some play honestly I’m not sure how much is too much. Also I don’t believe anyone did link and sync on the carbs but at this point I’m not overly confident that any of this was done correctly either way. Idle in gear approx 600-650 on crap factory tach,in neutral maybe 750. I will definitely check that clamp to see as well. Maybe a decarb would help I haven’t done one at all. Just like testing and troubleshooting to find issues I can’t stand throwing parts at things. Also maybe a timing issue? How exactly would one check timing on these motors? Clamp on cyl 1 ? And what should the #’s be at idle? I’m seeing a 28 btdc sticker on the plastic carburetor cover. Thanks guys
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
7,990
Get a good factory manual. Timing is set Mechanically on those motors unless something catastrophic happend don't touch it. I am also wondering if when they rebuilt the carbs did they clean them properly or just throw parts in them.
 

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
Gotcha I have to invest in one definitely, unfortunately I have no way of knowing what they actually did but I’m assuming I’ll have to go through them at this point.
 

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
Also to add I’ve noticed that there is a quite an idle change from full trim down vs even just a quarter of the way up, obviously backpressure I get that but it is definitely a noticeable difference. Idle is closer to 500 in gear sorry about that. Also like I said earlier the water pickup was without a doubt restricted to minimal flow from all of the debris in the water that day, since has been cleaned and while running seems that cylinder heads stay around 140-145 via infrared temp gun.
Just another update I check spark all cyl have no problem reaching 1/2” on tester also has a good sounding crack to it. Also checked primer solenoid today to see if it was possibly leaking when not engaged and it is operating normally as it should. Also just noticed that the large plate between the two cylinder heads is leaking water at idle. Did not know that before
 

justa302

Cadet
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
6
Bowls are metal for sure, also it’s not leaking from the rear plate I overlooked the fitting for the telltale that was in fact leaking 🤦‍♂️. And 10-4 on the trim/idle correlation thank you.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,129
I didnt notice anything mentioned earlier about a blocked water pick up, so it sounds like the temperature is all sorted then.
Perhaps it was just the leaking telltale flicking water around inside the cowling which would be short circuiting plugs at times.
And FlyingScott points out what was wrong with your starting procedure which would cause the hard start at the beach.
But i guess it doesnt explain the just above idle problem. I suppose it depends how bad that is. WOT sound ok and idling at 500 without stalling is great but if the only problem is that it cuts out going into gear just increase the minimum idle speed screw, but if it was me id be going through the carbs and checking every tiny passage for patency
 
Last edited:
Top