Johnson 60 hp, intermitent 4000rpm

adam1psu

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 25, 2006
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I agree....so I just put the power pack in, while trying to start it, I get a few pops of ignition then nothing.....when replacing a pack does the timing need set??......very frustrated....lol. it's a bro pack, and came with bolt hole extendors .....thanks
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Changing the powerpack does NOT change timing.----But did you put the 3 wires from the pack to the correct coils ??----That does matter.
 

adam1psu

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Sep 25, 2006
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Yes they were correct via being cut to length, the back of the new pack has wires in a different place than the original which explains the rubber bolt hole extenders, which didn't allow the ground wire to ground through the mounting bolt. The bolt hole extenders allowed for the wires on the box to fit with more space. It wouldn't fit without them. I regrounded it to the block as she fired right up......now again the same thing after 1 minute of auto warm up...no spark on 3.....don't know what to do what could cause this, bought part for nothing....any ideas? Scratching my head.....
 

fireman57

Captain
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Aug 24, 2004
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Have you physically swapped number three coil with another one and see if the problem follows? Could be the coil heating up and breaking down. I am getting strapped for ideas like you are.
 

adam1psu

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Yes, brand new coils as of 2 days ago, what unacti ates the automatic warm up? Thanks
 

adam1psu

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Inactivate I meant, ok so I now know that auto warm up lasts 110 seconds exactly every time, I unplugged the temp sensor and I now have spark after the warm up, I plugged the temp sensor back up and still has spark after warm up did this reset something??? What the frick??
 

Bosunsmate

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Dont write off the timer base yet too in case that unplugging was just a once off
 

adam1psu

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Went fishing, ran full rpm for 3 minutes, then back to 4000 rpm. Unplugged temp sensor....no diffrence. Went back to non-intermitent....only thing I can do now is, try switching plug wires around.....one in a million chance but last thing, going home on Friday then my friend who is an outboard mechanic will have to figure it out......I don't know how to check timer base unless it is simply measuring voltage with a voltage adapter and a multimeter. .....thought 4 sure was powerpack......I am close to giving up, I have 3 boats...might be time to get rid of one...lol
 

adam1psu

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Sep 25, 2006
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Disconnected white/black ran it, disconected, tan and ran it and then disconected both at same time and all a tempts yeeilded same thing after 60 second auto warm up......no spark on 3........can anybody help?
 

racerone

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What does your mechanic say about testing the diode in the wiring harness ?
 

KG ON

Cadet
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Jun 26, 2019
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Hi, I've got a few suggestions for you.

First use a timing light on each cylinder to verify if your losing spark when its dropping to 4000 rpm, and if so what cylinder is it.

Second disconnect the black/yellow wire from the power pack but please be careful after doing so because the key will not shut off the engine when disconnected, if the problems goes away you have a bad power pack.

Third, the coil wires orange/blue top cylinder, orange green bottom cylinder. If you have access to a peak reading voltmeter test orange wires to each coil should be 150 volts +. I always checked this under load to verify if it's a spark/ignition issue.

White smoke does happen a bit on these engines when cold starting and naturally they do have a bit of a lean cough.

Testing the diode in the wiring harness does not make sense. The power pack works as follows, stator generates the voltage and supplies the power pack, the power pack has a "scr"silicone controlled rectifier which is a one way electrical valve that receives .5 volts approx from the timerbase which tells the power pack to supply 150Volt + to the coil. Timer base rarely ever fails on these engines, but I have seen it happen. If you do step one and two let me know it goes.

KG
 

Bosunsmate

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Apr 7, 2012
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Disconnected white/black ran it, disconected, tan and ran it and then disconected both at same time and all a tempts yeeilded same thing after 60 second auto warm up......no spark on 3........can anybody help?

Check your timing base feeds with your meter when it cuts out. All you have to do is compare that 3cylinder to the other two and if it isnt in the ball park of the other two then thats your problem. I think it might just be it
 

adam1psu

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Ok, will try it, thank you! I also unplugged yellow n red (neutral start switch?) And weird it made no spark on no 3 during auto warm up or at any other time but no 1 and 2 had spark. I was suprised it started at all.
 

KG ON

Cadet
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Jun 26, 2019
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Go to google, type cdi troubleshooting guide. Itll walk you through the appropriate steps on troubleshooting this.
 

Bosunsmate

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Ok, will try it, thank you! I also unplugged yellow n red (neutral start switch?) And weird it made no spark on no 3 during auto warm up or at any other time but no 1 and 2 had spark. I was suprised it started at all.

I suppose unplugging it just acts like the switch is not there so its not surprising you still get spark on 1/2 but not 3
 

adam1psu

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Sep 25, 2006
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Haven't had time to work on boat after vacation, selling it to a friend, when he gets it fixed I will post up. Wife says I got to get rid of one boat since I just bought a 210 sea swirl cuddy with a tohatsu 140. Thanks for all the help!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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36,268
The nuetral start switch has nothing to do with making the spark !
 

BG0666

Cadet
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Jul 24, 2018
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Did you check the base trigger? Maybe ur arm kicking back or hanging up? That's what mine was and sounds pretty much same thing.even did drop test could not pin point it out.until I was checking the butterflies and I seen it was hung up all the way to the stopper.just a thought
 
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