Hi, I've got a few suggestions for you.
First use a timing light on each cylinder to verify if your losing spark when its dropping to 4000 rpm, and if so what cylinder is it.
Second disconnect the black/yellow wire from the power pack but please be careful after doing so because the key will not shut off the engine when disconnected, if the problems goes away you have a bad power pack.
Third, the coil wires orange/blue top cylinder, orange green bottom cylinder. If you have access to a peak reading voltmeter test orange wires to each coil should be 150 volts +. I always checked this under load to verify if it's a spark/ignition issue.
White smoke does happen a bit on these engines when cold starting and naturally they do have a bit of a lean cough.
Testing the diode in the wiring harness does not make sense. The power pack works as follows, stator generates the voltage and supplies the power pack, the power pack has a "scr"silicone controlled rectifier which is a one way electrical valve that receives .5 volts approx from the timerbase which tells the power pack to supply 150Volt + to the coil. Timer base rarely ever fails on these engines, but I have seen it happen. If you do step one and two let me know it goes.
KG