1998 130 HP Johnson motor intermittent issue

[Johsnson Outboarder]

I bought my first boat a couple months ago and since then I’ve gotten it to start, but this thing keeps leaving me stranded out on the water!

When i first got it, I first had to replace the Power Pack and spark plugs. I’ve gone out at least 5 times to different bodies of water and it seems to run like a champ for a while at different speeds (averaging about 25-35mph for a good 30 minutes up to a couple of hours). Then, I go to turn it off (to fish for a while), and it will NOT turn on again for at least 45 minutes to a couple hours.

During that time TODAY, I checked for spark and for fuel and I got plenty of fuel going to the carbs, but no spark at all.

What could cause intermittent spark distribution?

Could the power pack be bad AGAIN?!

Could my water pump (impeller seems to be forcing water out a little weak) be the cause?

(Note: I removed the wire to the ignition alarm to avoid having to hear the constant beeping sound last week. It also had a very bad connection and would stay on randomly from the moment I turned the key)

 

[racerone]

A new water pump impeller should have been installed the day after you bought it.-----That is a general rule.-----The constant beeping is an overheat warning.-----Hopefully you have not ruined your motor !-----And is oil injection in service and working properly ??

 

[jakedaawg]

Cdielectronics.com has a free troubleshooting guide for the ignition. Overheats can damage all sorts of electrics. They get expensive so proper diagnostics are required. Not especially difficult but you must do things completely and in proper order hence the above mentioned guide.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

I just purchased the timer base sensor because a buddy of mine told me mine was probably bad. Also, i had bought a water pump kit for it but didn’t put it on since i thought the one on it was working well enough. Just always had doubts. I will be sure to reconnect the alarm speaker, once I have replaced the impeller and of course install the Timer base sensor (aka “trigger”). If it fixes the issue, I’ll be sure to share here. Thank you for responding!

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Update: I replaced the water pump/impeller and the stator and Timer base Sensor (Trigger) and got out on the water again yesterday, and the thing left me stranded once the engine warmed up (after about 10-15 min). I’m beginning to suspect a faulty thermostat? What do you guys think? Also, could it a be a Rectifier? I feel like I’ve replaced everything else except these two things.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Anyone able to help?

 

[jakedaawg]

Well, you could keep throwing parts at it or...

You could download the guide mentioned above. It's very thorough. Your choice. At this point, before spending another $ do a compression check and post the results.

You will probably need to run the procedures in the guide after getting it to fail. Something may show up while cold so do it first that way and then again after it fails.

Is the over heat alarm working? That's gives a solid tone on yours I believe. A rapid beeping would be no oil, and a beep every 20 seconds is low oil. You need to make sure you are not overheating before running again. You should be able to hold your hand on top of the heads while running.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

I've checked the manual you suggested but quickly became discouraged with it since I can't seem to navigate it well enough to find a troubleshooting process for my issue.

At this point, I'm pretty sure the overheating sensor is cutting off my spark to protect the engine from overheating. My alarm is still disconnected because I actually forgot to reconnect it after impeller installation (which also doesn't provide me with any stronger of a tell-tale water stream, at least not like I thought it would). I'll be sure to reconnect the alarm and listen for a solid tone again.

Thank you for those alarm descriptions! Is there a page number you're looking at that shows alarm sounds? In the meantime, I will be sure to try and search the CDI Manual again to see if I can stumble upon some good info again.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

For the water pump worries: Don't be! These v4 loopers ALWAYS have a weak stream and kind of a strong dribble at wide open. they are not high - pressure pumps like used in the 93' and up 3.0 liter loopers. Did you check the thermostats? take them out, get a pot of hot water and make sure they visually open. if not, replace (new 0-rings are a must anyway). buy a $20 laser temp gun and make sure shes not over 165 at the head. if you aren't sure about the beeping, put 100:1 oil mix in the tank to be safe until you are 110% positive it's getting oil... the vro might have an air leak. was this a saltwater motor? possibly the heads are caked with corrosion and blocking flow. next get the FACTORY service manual on ebay for $25 bucks. it will walk you though testing the ignition, but you will need to make some small test leads with alligator clips. check the regulator.... unbolt the 2 fat yellow wires and see if you get spark. something is causing the components to fail....

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

on another note: the CDI website isn't that helpful in my experience. the factory omc manuals, especially the later ones, are probably the best and easiest/clearest manuals ever made. buy one! it's got everything you need.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

(new 0-rings are a must anyway). buy a $20 laser temp gun and make sure shes not over 165 at the head. if you aren't sure about the beeping, put 100:1 oil mix in the tank to be safe until you are 110% positive it's getting oil... the vro might have an air leak. was this a saltwater motor? possibly the heads are caked with corrosion and blocking flow. ... check the regulator.... unbolt the 2 fat yellow wires and see if you get spark. something is causing the components to fail....

I ordered 2 new Thermostats since they're only $13 each and ordered a Service Manual to see about troubleshooting the rectifier/regulator. New O Rings?? This is a center console bay boat that hasn't seen a lot of Saltwater, corrosion unlikely, but MAYBE. Do you mean the 2 yellow wires under the Power Pack? Thanks for the input, btw!

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Yes, the regulator/rectifier is directly under the power pack, but no need to access it directly as you can simply unscrew the 2 yellow wires from the terminal block. I'm 90% sure the terminal block is exposed. I made a mistake... no thermostat 0-rings but replace that $2 gasket on both. I suppose if it isnt leaking you could try to re-use the old one with some gasket sealer, but just a tiny bit. let us know how it goes!

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

[No message]

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Thermostats are in my mailbox and I'm anxious to see what happens! I will also check the Power Pack, Stator, and the Rectifier according to the Manual's testing procedures and share here.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

You will probably need to run the procedures in the guide after getting it to fail. Something may show up while cold so do it first that way and then again after it fails.

Is the over heat alarm working? That's gives a solid tone on yours I believe. A rapid beeping would be no oil, and a beep every 20 seconds is low oil. You need to make sure you are not overheating before running again. You should be able to hold your hand on top of the heads while running.

So, I'm using the manual and the beep sounds aren't explained in detail, but it did explain that maybe my Powerpack is bad again (possibly excessive heat). I can tell you that I replaced both thermostats today and the alarm beeped only half a second then didn't make any sound at all for 15-20 seconds or so, then it had a constant beep that never stopped! Haven't turned the boat on since this past weekend (because I don't have water access until this weekend) so maybe the alarm system isn't working properly? If what you said is true about the solid beep being an overheat alarm, how is it constant beeping if it hasn't been turned on?

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Well, you could keep throwing parts at it or...

You could download the guide mentioned above. It's very thorough. Your choice. At this point, before spending another $ do a compression check and post the results.

Compression Test Results:

Top Left Cylinder = 112 psi
Top Right Cylinder = 113 psi
Bottom Left Cylinder = 120 psi
Bottom Right Cylinder = 120 psi

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Not sure if this is a GREAT test result, but the manual says it should generate at least 100 psi

 

[jakedaawg]

Well. At least you have compression. Those were the low compression heads on those I believe. Someone better with the 90* loopers may correct me though.

I think you will have to take your peak reading voltmeter for a ride. Sounds like a heat soak issue. So, get it to fail then go through the steps...

That's all I got really, these somewhat intermittent issues can be a real bear.

As far as repeat failure of the power pack...I think they fail for two reasons, heat and bad grounds.

Wires are often neglected. Battery cables dont last forever, nor do any wires. They get corrosion you cant see.

To avoid spending unnecessary funds I would first go through and clean and tighten and inspect every little blk wire attached to the block. Make sure battery cables are in good shape and tightened with nuts. Make sure connections on back of key switch are clean bright and tight. You get the idea, electrical maintenance I call it.

I prefer a analog peak reading voltmeter like the Steven's brand. I have never been able to get a good reading with digital's or adaptors. The resistance checks listed are not good enough to really condemn a part, they just point you in a direction. Obviously if there is an open or something it can be condemned but when the issue is intermittent you really need the voltages...

Good luck, I mean that sincerely. Some times it's hard to really be much help over the net.

 

[jakedaawg]

You definitely need to address the possible overheat before the above, I just reread the thread.

when running, can you hold your hand on the top of the head? That's the goal. Also make sure the little holes are clear. I like to back flush when stats are out. Pop the lower off and flush with water in the stats and out the bottom. That can get any old impellar chunks out...might want to look at the temp switches in each head also.

 

[Johsnson Outboarder]

Thank you Jakedaawg! So these are the steps I plan on taking from what you said:

1. Check every wire in and around the whole engine.
2. Back flush from T-Stat opening and drop off lower end and flush from the water pipe that goes into the impeller housing.
3. Replace Power Pack once it comes in.
4. Test for voltages from Stator and Trigger
5. Take it out on the water again staying close to the boat ramp and check temps with my Pyrometer on the heads

To answer your question, I could barely hold my hand on top of the flywheel this last time it died on me. Didn't attempt to touch the heads. Just had my flare and destress flag out. :/

Thanks again! I'll be sure to post here once I get the power pack or if I find something that may have been the cause somewhere in the steps I'm about to take.