1986 110hp Evinrude weak spark on 1&3

MallRat

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I have a 1986 110hp Evinrude with weak spark on cylinders 1 & 3.

I was going to do the Joe Reeves WOT timing procedure and determined the issue. I took all 4 plugs out and grounded them to the cylinder head. Then replaced the solid copper plug wire on cylinder 1 with a regular auto type plug wire.

I do have weak spark cause the tiny tach runs on cylinder 1. It just don't have enough to make the timing light light. neither does cylinder 3. However cylinders 2 and 4 make the timing light light.

So I took the coil from cylinder 2 and cylinder 1 and switched them. The issue stayed on number 1.

So I took the power pack that tells coil 1 and 3 to fire and swapped with the power pack that tells coils 2 and 4 to fire.
The issue stays with cylinders 1 and 3.

Now I'm stuck and don't know what to try next. As I said there is weak fire on cylinders 1 and 3. And every once in a while I can get the timing light to light on cylinder 1. But most of the time doesn't.

What to I try next?
 
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MallRat

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How do I test it?
Can it be repaired or new one?

Will probably need someone to hold my hand from here on out.
 

Faztbullet

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Just swap the connectors with brn/brn-yel on stator to packs. If problem goes to other side stator bad
 

MallRat

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That was the simple test I was looking for.
Give me about an hour or so and I will report on what happens.

The engine will run but just didn't have the power it should have. Last year it would get up on plane but would take forever. And a hole shot was joke, nothing but sky.

​​​​​Had to back trailer all the way in to load.

Will swap brn brn/yel wires and let ya know.
 

MallRat

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I cannot find the brown brown/yellow wires you are talking about.

The only wires that resemble that are in a two wire connector. And I don't think they will reach from one side of engine to the other.

Let me check it again and repost.

My engine is E110TLCDC
​​​​​
 

MallRat

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So take the two-wire connector that comes off the stator going to the pack on the right side of engine and connect it to the left side pack. And vice-versa.

Is that correct?
 

MallRat

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Well I took the two-wire connector that runs from stator to power pack on right side of engine and connected it to the power pack on left side of engine.
Then took the two-wire connector that runs from stator to power pack on left side of engine and connected it to the power pack on right side of engine.

The condition followed the two-wire connector.
Cylinders 1&3 now have a good strong spark that will jump a 7/16" gap in spark tester plus the spark plug gap. Cylinders 2&4 have intermittent spark that won't jump jack.

I see a new stator in my future.

B.O.A.T. and other 4 letter words.
​​​​​
 
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MallRat

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I don't f'in know. Stuck everything back together.
For giggles turned on water hit the key and it started fine. Good strong spark on all 4 cylinders. Well made the timing light flash anyway.
Still can't get idle lower than 730ish.

Taking up too much time so next weekend, if my mind doesn't change, I'm taking it to repair shop and tell them to fix it. Then if need take out loan to pay for it. I have enough to mess with without messing with this mother-loving boat.
​​​​​
 

racerone

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Post results of a compression test.----These motors are nearly world famous for breaking the piston rings.
 

MallRat

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Will be sometime next Saturday. Got a 8hr commute for work on Monday and won't be back home until Friday.

​​​​​
 

MallRat

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It will idle but the tach (tiny tach knockoff) showing 720 ish RPM.
just got it and was installing. Think I may have it set wrong. Won't know till Saturday May 4th.

Don't know why all cylinders fire good ( didn't check with gap jumper just timing light ) engine running and cylinder 1&3 don't. when cranking 2 &4 jump 7/16 gap while cranking but 1&2 will not.
Unless stator is boarder line
​​going bad. Guess a meter to check it with is in my future and a shop manual.



Main issue last year when I just got boat was it didn't have power to come up on plane and throttle wouldn't wind out. Factory RPM gauge doesn't work.

Thought I adjusted the idle and adjusted the timing by mistake. But DIDN'T MOVE BAR just the stop screw, so timing can't be too far off.

​​​
 

MallRat

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Rained most of the day. Didn't get to do the compression test. Maybe will be able to Sunday before I have to leave.

Did manage to change bunks today. Attempted to go for a little ride. Wouldn't idle long enough to put into gear. But I think that is because I have idle set to low. Because last weekend I was messing with idle and RPM gauge.

​​​​​
 

MallRat

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OK tested compression today with rented tester from Azone. Followed directions in the secret files.
Don't know if accurate but...

Cylinder 1 85psi
Cylinder 2 83psi
Cylinder 3 85psi
Cylinder 4 87psi

Again don't know if accurate but they all tested close to each other.

Figured out the settings on the induction tach. (Kedsum)
I had it set to once every rotations instead of twice a rotation.

With correct settings induction tach reading current idle set to about 360RPM.
 

racerone

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I doubt that motor can keep running at 360 RPM.----720 RPM I can believe.------The plugs fire once for each revolution of the crankshaft !!-----My compression tester would record 120 + PSI on one of those motors in good condition.
 

MallRat

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So do i need to rebuild heads believe rented tester is correct or?

Issue i started thread with was weak / intermittent
spark on cylinder 1&3.

So now i need a stator and a head job / piston rings.
 

racerone

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Remove the wee bypass covers .-----Allows you to look at pistons and rings.-----6 bolts each and there are 4 covers.---2 on each side of the block.------Might cost you just pennies for 4 new gaskets.
 
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