Lower Unit Hole 😳😳😳

FJ_Russo

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So I have a 140hp johnson. Runs great, excellent compression been a great motor. The transom saver I use punched a hole in the side of lower unit. Is this a fixable repair? Or is the LU trash? I was considering trying to braze the hole with acetylene and aluminum brazing rods.
 

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FJ_Russo

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jakedaawg

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You need an experienced tig welder. I have fixed similar...do not attempt any other method, it will just cost more when you finally take it.to a welder.
 

boobie

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Get some grey Marine Tex and repair it with that. Works really good.
 

FJ_Russo

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You need an experienced tig welder. I have fixed similar...do not attempt any other method, it will just cost more when you finally take it.to a welder.

Yea that's what I was afraid of. Is there any mechanicals that high up or is that basically "oil reservoir" area so to speak?
 

Bosunsmate

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Yea that's what I was afraid of. Is there any mechanicals that high up or is that basically "oil reservoir" area so to speak?

Oil reservoir. The casing inside would need a thorough clean otherwise gears will be grinded up by what dropped in there.
I guess you wont be using transom savers again, like i dont
 

Scott Danforth

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pull the lower and you will need to de-grease. it can be welded for about $50

how did the transom saver (which normally has a saddle) poke a square hole in your outdrive?
 

harringtondav

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TIG or aluminum wire MIG spool gun with argon shielding is the only way to weld aluminum. Prop shops do these types of repairs, also welding shops. Low cost to keep a good motor running.
 

FJ_Russo

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pull the lower and you will need to de-grease. it can be welded for about $50

how did the transom saver (which normally has a saddle) poke a square hole in your outdrive?


it was this exact transom saver, the motor turned I had noticed it turned didnt think much of it. Came out to empty the LU grease at the end of the year and noticed one of the round plastic pieces punched a whole in it. I never would have believed that plastic could have punched a whole in it.
 

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racerone

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The acetylene / aluminum brazing will work.-------Tig welding will work.-----Start by drainibg oil , taking the lower unit off.-------Have you used the aluminum brazing rod before , yes or no ?
 

FJ_Russo

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The acetylene / aluminum brazing will work.-------Tig welding will work.-----Start by drainibg oil , taking the lower unit off.-------Have you used the aluminum brazing rod before , yes or no ?

I have brazed aluminum but very thin aluminum. I had a row boat that a friend gave me because it came loos from the dock was wedged into rocks and got several holes. I also consider myself a decent arc and mig welder. I have a mig welder but it's a flux core not argon welding unit. I think I'm just going to check with my local welding shop about Tig welding it. If its 50-100 bucks it's still much cheaper than a replacement LU.
 

racerone

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Should be no problem then.-----After the welding , pressure test before filling the gearcase with oil.-----Be a shame to lose the gears and bearings if water gets in.
 

jimmbo

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Only if the engine had no built in way of being totally imobilized. Older outboards that had no Hydraulic or mechanical locking system. another place, the Original Mercury Power trim for example, once the engine was all the way up, you had to lift is some more by hand and flip over the trailering lock, The motor could still bounce up and down. there a transom saver was a good idea. Later Power trim systems, the engine could be immobilized or locked in position on the transom bracket and these cases a Transom Saver can damage the Transom. If the boat is not completely immobilized from moving on the trailer, and/or the Trailer is not compressed lengthwise(bowed) when the boat is strapped down and the so called Transom saver is hooked up. If the boat moves back or forward the slightest or the trailer un-bowes then all that force is directed to the Transom.


On my I/O I use what look like partial pipes that go over the extended rams on the outdrive and lock them in place with the hydraulics. On older boat with OBs, I would engage the tilt.trailer locks on the engine, secure them with the Hydraulics. Motor stayed rigid and transom never had any issues.
 

Scott Danforth

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I have brazed aluminum but very thin aluminum. I had a row boat that a friend gave me because it came loos from the dock was wedged into rocks and got several holes. I also consider myself a decent arc and mig welder. I have a mig welder but it's a flux core not argon welding unit. I think I'm just going to check with my local welding shop about Tig welding it. If its 50-100 bucks it's still much cheaper than a replacement LU.

Take it to a real welder.... Pay the $35 and have it welded
 

FJ_Russo

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Take it to a real welder.... Pay the $35 and have it welded

Yeap that's my plan, as I stated I'm going to check with my local welding shop and see if they will weld this. Thanks for the responses everyone. As always I can count on iboats for some help!!!
 
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