1996 Johnson 40hp No Spark Issues

[Aaron Huyser]

Hi I recently Purchased a pontoon boat with a 1996 Johnson 40 HP engine it was running great a few days ago with the occasional not wanting to start I attributed this to possible flooding however I took my wife and kids out and we flew across the lake just fine and anchored had some lunch and then upon trying to start the engine it would not fire at all I assumed this was flooding again however I checked fire on the plugs today and no spark at all on either plug So Im starting to think its stator or power pack can Someone chime in on this? here are my test results for the following components P.S. I do not have a DVA Test Device.


Stator

Brown to brown/yellow reads O.L
Brown to engine ground reads O.L
Brown/yellow to engine ground reads O.L
Orange to orange/black reads 50.9


Timer base unit

White to blue reads 24.8
White to green reads 24.6
White to engine ground reads O.L
Blue to engine grounds reads O.L
Green to engine grounds reads O.L

Powerpack unit

Orange blue to blue reads 81.8
Orange green to green reads 94.1
White to ground black reads Shorted
Brown to engine ground reads 6.02 in the M range
Brown yellow to engine ground reads 8.16 in the M range

 

[Aaron Huyser]

I have already eliminated the kill switch circuit

 

[wrench 3]

If you go to http://boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1990-2001johnsonevinrude.html#/186 ignition trouble shooting starts on page 187.

 

[Aaron Huyser]

I was using the CDI manual for reference see page 39 I believe its stator but wanted another opinion before I go drop 200 dollars on a new one

http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/CDI Troubleshooting Guide - 2012.pdf

 

[Aaron Huyser]

I just realized my southwire multimeter has has a peak/max voltage reading option

 

[racerone]

Possibly a break at the wire / pin where it goes into the plug in connecter.

 

[Aaron Huyser]

the brown wire was beginning to come of the little clip end but I already discovered that prior to testing

 

[Aaron Huyser]

On a side not assuming the stator has bad coils can those just be replaced I saw some replacements on ebay for just the coil units.

 

[oldboat1]

If it were mine (and I was frustrated enough), I would just spring for a new CD2 power pack. It it turns out to be something else, the power pack can be kept on the shelf for testing purposes, or for use when the power pack does decide to tank.

 

[thatone123]

See Dangar Marine on UTube. He covers this in a laid back way that is very instructive.

 

[jakedaawg]

What method did you use to eliminate kill circuit?

are the readings you posted above in ohms? I am not familiar with the "L".

 

[racerone]

O.L---- is a way of indicating infinity on many meters.

 

[Aaron Huyser]

I removed the black and yellow pin from the boot per the manual as for the reading those are ohms and O.L stands for open or open loop.

 

[jakedaawg]

I would not condemn a staor based on resistance alone unless shorted to ground.

I have yet to see a multimeter that has a peak reading function. I have a snap-on a nd a fluke that cost more than some small outboards and they dont do it. Many times that peak the inexpensive ones speak of is a hold on the highest voltage they see...not an actual peak reading voltmeter function.

 

[Aaron Huyser]

My multi meter has a peak reading option and and max reading option I used peak which actually comes back with a higher voltage then a max reading. In either case the voltage comes back with next to zero voltage on the brown wires Im useing a Southwire 14070T. In my multimeter manual it specifically says the peak button is used to capture the highest positive peak and lowest negative peak on AC current. So for example when I testing a 120 socket i get peaks around 170-176. This makes sense because 120 would be the RMS voltage would it not? and the 170 range would be the peak?

 

[Aaron Huyser]

My multi meter has a peak reading option and and max reading option I used peak which actually comes back with a higher voltage then a max reading. In either case the voltage comes back with next to zero voltage on the brown wires Im useing a Southwire 14070T. In my multimeter manual it specifically says the peak button is used to capture the highest positive peak and lowest negative peak on AC current. So for example when I testing a 120 socket i get peaks around 170-176. This makes sense because 120 would be the RMS voltage would it not? and the 170 range would be the peak?

 

[jakedaawg]

I dont know enough about it...I use a Steven's model cd-77. It's the one the manual calls for...sorry I can be of no help determining whether yours does the same thing.

I do know that many times I have found stators with resistance out of spec but still producing in spec voltages. No need to replace in that case and haven't been burned in those scenarios. Now, if voltage is out of spec I then replace the stator.

I see a couple hundred out boards through my shop each season. I replaced 2 johnson stators last year. Maybe 5 mercs. Not saying yours isn't bad but the weak spot in a johnson is usually the pack in my experience. Proper testing does not lie.

 

[Aaron Huyser]

Here's an update on the issue. Got the new stator in and first ran a bench test with a meter everything came back within spec put it on the boat and it fired up first crank I also checked voltage and it was kicking out 300ish volts everything seems to be as it should now thanks guys for the inputs.

Jakedaawg I know you said you had some expensive meters if your ever in the market for a new meter I highly recommend Southwire 14070T or Southwire 14090T its been a great meter and like I said its got that peak reading option which is pretty handy when working on boats. I agree in that I've never seen that option on any other meter I've seen min/max/average but never peak.

Any-who thanks guys for chiming in until next time