Ficht EMM?

[Michaelbroussard]

2001 225 Evinrude 225FHSIF. I am having multiple issues that have had me all over the place. All but one is now solved. Here is what I am dealing with. I can plane out and run 3500 rpm fine. Once I trim up a little and get up around 4000-4500 the motor kind of levels off at 4500 and about 5 seconds later my check engine light comes on and puts me into limp mode. I turn it off and it will fire right back up. I can do this over and over. It started a few years ago and would do it in rough water only. Then it got to happening when I made a turn last year. Off and on very sporadic. Now it doesn't matter. I have checked stator per the manual testing the ohms. It's good. Battery load test is good and it is a 1000 cca battery. I have looked over all ground wires, taken them off, cleaned, and reinstalled them. Battery cables are good. I have wiggled and shook wiring harness over the boat. I can't make it happen until it is under a load in the water. I have brought it by the dealer several times. The only code that will show is 26. Low voltage detected check stator wiring etc. What I have been told is that the code 26 is not supposed to put me in slow or limp mode. Possibility in my mind is the emm. I have spoken to a few of the folks that rebuild them asking if the reg/rect may be the issue. He said it normally is either working or not. Shouldn't go in or out like I described it doing. It would also be throwing the 40v code at the same time if that was the issue. He said he's never seen it before but the soldered connection may have came loose allowing contact all the time. With the little vibration it may be possible it vibrates away from the connection just long enough to throw the code. Last Saturday it happened 27 times according to the dealer. I have had EMM issues 3 times now that made sense to everyone. This one makes sense to no one I have spoken with. Not a common issue. Running at the dealer on muffs and running at the house on muffs I have no issues. Regardless to the steering position, trim angle, or RPM. I am going to bring a lap top with me to the lake this weekend. I am going to have it monitored so we can see everything happening play by play so we can tell if the voltage drop is steady and makes sense or if it just throws the code instant. Am I missing anything or is the EMM once again making this thing go crazy?

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you dont trim up, does the issue not present itself?

running on muffs your pushing water into the motor. in the water you are relying on the water pump. how is your cooling system? when was the last impeller change? do you run in salt water?

make sure the hoses that cool the EMM are free of debris, etc. blow (mouth, not compressed air), you should be able to blow with a bit of resistance and hear bubbling of air internal to motor

check all your electrical connections.

 

[Michaelbroussard]

Only fresh water. Impeller last summer. PSI is good on dash, good pressure from back of motor, and no overheating issues with EMM. If I trim up or down doesn't do it. I have eliminated that. I got it on plane trimmed up some Saturday just to make sure so I could get the rpm needed without having to trim it up while running. If I hold the throttle back it is fine. 3400-3500 rpm. It's when I push the hot foot down and get it up around 50-55 mph is when it falls off. Throws the code and I start over. I have checked and checked and re checked every connection over and over. I can't find any issues. I also can't figure out why that code would throw off and on as well as putting me into limp mode when it shouldn't. If the battery voltage was actually low it would crank back up I wouldn't think. As long as the 40v side is working while the engine is on I would think the battery wouldn't even matter until it was time to fire it back up. I really think I'm getting a false reading.

 

[Crosbyman]

I am no expert in EMM.. they are a bit secretive documentation wise .

If the EMM sees low voltage there may be only 2 options

1- the EMM is flaky (sad and expensive)
2- EMM is not flaky …. something else is and the EMM is doing it's job

Can you find out what voltage source is being monitored by the code 26 condition.

If yes is there any possibility to tap in the sense wire to externally monitor the voltage for drops or cut-off's ??

If you can ….I would use a good old needle VOM to measure the drops because digital meters may not display fast enough to spot the change (drop)

of course if we are talking milliseconds drops even a needle meter won't show anything… only a oscilloscope would
show these fast transitions .

If you can tap in the responsible sense wire (trouble maker) for that EMM at least you will know if the EMM is flaky or the voltage source is flaky.

it could be just a bad/corroded joint in a quick connector … hopefully those were all checked & cleaned


update: IF and I say IF …. the newer EMM on ETECs followed the same fault code structure code 26 would be a charging voltage issue.

just is case … measure the battery voltage while above 2000 rpm you should be ABOVE 12.5 volts

Batteries are also flaky sometimes… did you try another good battery even if yours seems OK ??

 

[Michaelbroussard]

I have not tried a new battery yet. Had my neighbor who is an auto mechanic bring his load tester over and it read out that it was ok. Looking at wiring diagrams from the manual I have it shows a wire going into the emm for the regulator rectifier. The 12v side of the stator which is 12 wires total plugging into the emm and a wire that comes back to the starter solenoid which returns charge back to the battery. Per the manual the stator ohm readings are with tolerance. The wire from the PDP to what shows to be feeding the EMM is fine other than what I can't see inside of the emm and pdp. Voltage is correct. Nothing visible on the outside and I've wiggled it multiple times at 2000-2500 on muffs without any issues happening. I have checked the grounds and connections because it seems to be what would be causing it all. I guess after this weekend when I run it while monitoring it I'll see if it's a steady fall in voltage along with the charging circuit per the Evinrude diag system or if I have voltage like I should and it just hits all of a sudden with the error code. That's the only thing I haven't done yet. Once I can figure out exactly how it's doing while I'm monitoring it I will know what to eliminate and really pick apart. I don't mind sending the EMM off to be looked at. I just don't want to spend all that money and time if that isn't it and I still have a problem.

 

[Crosbyman]

a wire that comes back to the starter solenoid which returns charge back to the battery…..

that's the wire to look at …. I guess

If the issue doesn't come up on muffs you will have to do it with a buddy driving the boat and you testing around the back .

battery wise…. you would not believe the problems I had on my car's brain with a "good battery" with a flaky cell .

the only way I found out was while charging the battery and suddenly saw flickering and drops on the charger display !

good luck ​

 

[Faztbullet]

If voltages test ok I would try replacing the power relay and then PDP first.... if you find a voltage drop no check each output phase of stator to rectifier/regulator

 

[Michaelbroussard]

I have considered the main relay. Looks fine but it does kind of just lay on top of the harness and is subject to vibration. I may see if the parts store has one on the way home. Couldn't hurt. Also the guy I spoke with about the EMM said it could be in the PDP and he does those as well. Can't do anything without the computer so I suppose I should throw it in the box too. I need a new battery on my aluminum boat. Don't need a battery that size for my 25 but I may go ahead and buy one that big anyway. Wouldn't hurt to try a new one on my bass boat. Won't be out anything if it isn't bad because I need one anyway.

 

[Crosbyman]

sounds like plan keep us posted … those intermittent problems are ..educational to say the least

 

[Crosbyman]

Michael.. found this on the web … may not be your issue but basically if you search the web you may find additional infoon the possible causes .....


https://community.evinrude.com/t5/Ow...elp/td-p/25065
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=567656

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

Did you put new plugs in...index them?

Also I can't seem to find any service info about this but their is a barometric/back pressure metal filter just below the the PH in the top of the midsection I think...It kind of looks like the internal part of an O2 sensor if you have ever seen one. I have seen this get carboned up.

 

[Faztbullet]

JD..please explain how plugs and restricted back pressure would cause EMM to throw a low voltage code???

 

[Crosbyman]

I think he posted on the wrong topic…..probably won't be back since he will be looking for updates on the original post that generated his reply ….:faint:

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

JD..please explain how plugs and restricted back pressure would cause EMM to throw a low voltage code???

If I had a nickel for every time I chased a code...If you remember the EMM provides the ground for the starter solenoid to give the barometric reading first then acts as a back pressure reading. Besides that filter is supposed to be routinely serviced.

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

JD..please explain how plugs and restricted back pressure would cause EMM to throw a low voltage code???

Due to the nature of the injection the plugs have to be indexed, and in some cases service bulletins had actually installed deflectors just below the spark plug hole. I dont have any OEM Just selocs service material on this but the ETECS still require plugs to be indexed. But we have to remember the Ficht Ram injection was the last Model Bombardier made before going bankrupt before the family Bombardier resurrected the company.

 

[Faztbullet]

Need to leave the Seloc amd MMI material where ya got em...The items ya listed wont throw a low voltage code. Not blasting ya but information was inaccurate....

 

[Crosbyman]

omc… went bankrupt….then Bombardier took over

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

Also you should check the capacitor (its the blue canister on the engine about the size of a smaller can of soda) with the white/ red wires and black wire going to it. Being DC current you should be able to put your meter across the leads...I think...you may need a DVA (thinking about it you probably will). This Circuit supplies the 40 volts needed to operate the injectors (both the fuel and oil). I'm going to pm you the wiring diagram of the PDP wiring circuit and the wiring diagram from a generic manual, it's kinda hard to read but you should be able to get the point. The lighting bolt shows where you need to check output voltage from the PDP also included is a service bulletin addressing a possible fuel manifold problem. Keep us updated!

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

Per the manual the stator ohm readings are with tolerance.

I would verify output voltage with a dva...resistance readings suck

 

[Marine Services of Las Vegas]

Not blasting ya but information was inaccurate....

"please elaborate"?