Fuel mixtures evinrude/johnson

[Jellenburg]

New to the group sorry if this has already been asked or answered. I have a 9.9 evenrude Ecr10 somethin it’s mid to late 80s model. When purchased it had 32:1 wrote on cowl cover. Been running that but having issues with plugs n gas is that right? I’m seeing slot of people saying 50:1 but it’s for diff year and Johnsons motors when asked. What Ratio mix do I need to run? Anyone please? Thanks

 

[Vic.S]

New to the group sorry if this has already been asked or answered. I have a 9.9 evenrude Ecr10 somethin it’s mid to late 80s model. When purchased it had 32:1 wrote on cowl cover. Been running that but having issues with plugs n gas is that right? I’m seeing slot of people saying 50:1 but it’s for diff year and Johnsons motors when asked. What Ratio mix do I need to run? Anyone please? Thanks

CR are the date letters for 1984 , but I don't think you have the model number correct , I'd expect E10RCRA (or E10ECRA if electric start) for a standard shaft engine

See http://shop.evinrude.com/media/document/ModelNumberReference.pdf for the model number guide

However, officially all pre mix Johnsons and Evinrudes post 1964 should run on a 50:1 mix, including those from the late 1980s which were originally badged at 100:1

It should run without difficulty on 32:1, in fact when new the break-in mix would have been 25:1

 

[Jellenburg]

Yes you are correct. On the vin. No electric start. It’s just cold I didn’t wanna run to garage to double check. 50:1. Got it thanks

 

[Crosbyman]

what plugs are you using ?

 

[racerone]

Install a new impeller.----Make sure thermostat is installed and working properly.

 

[Jellenburg]

Plugs are oem champion (per oreillys). Impeller. I’m not sure how to go about changing that. I’ll have to do some research. Could the mix ratio be why it look like some oil is draining out or the exhaust holes and prop?

 

[racerone]

It is normal for oily sludge to leak out at the prop.-----Especially after idling in a barrel.------Your motor does not have an overheat warning / shutdown system on it.-----Failure of the impeller can lead to expensive repairs.-----A wise owner would install a new one if the age of the impeller in it now is not known !

 

[Crosbyman]

2nd try … what PLUG NUMBER in the Champion family are you using ?

 

[Jellenburg]

Plugs are oem champion (per oreillys). Impeller. I’m not sure how to go about changing that. I’ll have to do some research. Could the mix ratio be why it look like some oil is draining out or the exhaust holes and prop?

 

[Jellenburg]

Sorry didn’t mean to repeat that post, I was wrong Crosbyman. They are NGK plugs. With an R under the ngk. And number BR6HS. As for the impeller the impeller was trashed but I can’t find. New one. Anyone have a part number to order one from oreilly or amazon. Also how do I know which way to make the impeller turn when I’m looking at pump upside down setting the impeller thanks

 

[racerone]

Impeller was used from 1974 to 2005 models.----Every boat shop will have some on hand !!

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Impeller part number is 386084.

Also, you will likely want to switch to the recommended Champion plugs.
The NGK plugs you listed work best on the 9.9's and 15's manufactured between 1974 and 1976.

 

[Jellenburg]

Thanks I will switch also. Bought a Sierra water pump kit. From oreilly Everything was exact and went to put impeller on shaft and and it was to small for the shaft they ordered a separate impeller and same issue here’s to hopping one of the shops here have one

 

[Vic.S]

Sorry didn’t mean to repeat that post, I was wrong Crosbyman. They are NGK plugs. With an R under the ngk. And number BR6HS. As for the impeller the impeller was trashed but I can’t find. New one. Anyone have a part number to order one from oreilly or amazon. Also how do I know which way to make the impeller turn when I’m looking at pump upside down setting the impeller thanks

The recommended plugs are Champion QL77JC4 (or QL82C) gapped at 0.030"

The Q denotes inductive suppression.

DO NOT use resistor plugs ie those with an R in the number

If you must use NGK (most of the world prefers them to Champions!) use either BZ7HS-10 ( the Z indicates inductive suppression) or the unsuppressed B7HS-10 ( the -10 merely indicates that they are supplied gapped at 1mm)

( a grade 6 NGK is one grade hotter than a grade 7 )