2000 Johnson 150 - Only 1800 RPM Under Load

Jose67

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Per the OMC manual I performed a stator resistance test. Used a digital read out Fluke meter on the audible continuity/ohm setting and got a reading of 0.4, manual states for V6 35 amp stator reading should 0.12 +- 0.07. I also checked (per the manual) for a grounded condition but got no reading on the meter. My question is was this an appropriate meter to use or is there a certain type of meter used for these tests. Another interesting reading I got was voltage at the battery, with engine off voltage at battery was 12.8vdc, with engine running at idle I got a reading of 14.5vdc. What do these test results mean? I have been chasing an issue this engine not revving above 1,800rpm in gear under load for a week.
 

racerone

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Checked the shift switch ?----Sounds like it might be running on 3 cylinders.
 

Vic.S

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Per the OMC manual I performed a stator resistance test. Used a digital read out Fluke meter on the audible continuity/ohm setting and got a reading of 0.4, manual states for V6 35 amp stator reading should 0.12 +- 0.07. I also checked (per the manual) for a grounded condition but got no reading on the meter. My question is was this an appropriate meter to use or is there a certain type of meter used for these tests. Another interesting reading I got was voltage at the battery, with engine off voltage at battery was 12.8vdc, with engine running at idle I got a reading of 14.5vdc. What do these test results mean? I have been chasing an issue this engine not revving above 1,800rpm in gear under load for a week.

It is difficult to measure these low resistances accurately with ordinary multi-meters due to the resistance of the connections and the leads.

The battery voltage of 12.8 volts is what I would expect for a good fully charged battery after resting for 12 hours or so.

14.5 volts is about what I would expect to see if the battery was charging normally.

These readings suggest that your battery and charging system are OK.

You are however I think barking up the wrong tree checking the battery and charging system if you are trying to find a reason for the poor running.
 

oldboat1

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could be the SLOW system. Maybe overheating or a ground short in the tan wire.
 

Jose67

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Shift switch was the first thing that I found out was bad it was running on only three cylinders, port side plugs and head was noticeably cooler the the starboard side. Changed out shift switch and now both sides are the same temperature and have good spark (verified this with a spark tester). I bought this engine on Ebay that was advertised as rebuilt powerhead, it does have .020 pistons and new gaskets. The engine will fire up with a touch of key and idle fine I just can't get over 1,800 rpm in gear under load. It was also advertised as carbs ultrasonically cleaned. I am just about to throw in the towel and take it in to the dealer for diagnosis which would be a first for me as I been able to diagnose just about any problem in the past using the service manual and help from you knowledge people.
 

Jose67

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So to check if engine is in SLOW mode I would disconnect port and starboard temp. sensors? As for the power pack I switched it out with a known good unit.
 

oldboat1

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Fastbullet is your man, but that CDI pdf could be instructive. One more try: https://www dot go2marine dot com/productcenters/electrical/johnson-evinrude-1991-2006.pdf
 

Jose67

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History on the engine.
1. Bought from Ebay, advertised as rebuilt power head, lower unit serviced and cabs ultrasonically cleaned. 20-30 minutes run time to tune carbs.
2. Received engine first of February. Shipped with front of engine face down.
3. Installed and fired up engine two weeks later. Tank of water had quite a bit of oil in it after shutting engine off, I figured it leaked from the lower unit during shipment seeing as how lower unit and tilt/trim reservoir is the only thing with any kind of oil on an outboard.
4. Noticed idle was a little low and bottom port side carb was dripping fuel, removed and repaired carb.
5. Reinstalled carb and idle still low. Also noticed port side plugs and head were not as hot as starboard side after idling for 10 minutes.
6. With help from you guys I did find that the shift switch was bad cutting spark to three cylinders.
7. Installed new shift switch, and it idled much better.
8. Took out on water for first time and after idling away from the dock I tried to power up in gear and could not get over 1,800 rpm.
9. Installed new spark plugs and did a complete link and sync per OMC manual using piston stop tool and in place of the OMC timing analyzer I used the Johnny Rude Easy Timer.
10. Took out on water again with same results, could not get over 1,800 rpm in gear under load.

I figure it may some other electrical circuit not allowing engine to rev. The engine starts easy and idles good just can't any rpm's out of it in gear under load. Don't know how long engine sat after PO tuned carbs after the power head rebuild, it has been suggested to me that maybe the carbs and manifold need cleaning if engine sat for a few months. I have not tried cleaning carbs and manifold as of yet.
 

racerone

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Are the coils fed by the correct wire from the CD ignition module ?----Look for orange wires with stripes I believe.
 

Jose67

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Oct 5, 2016
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It is a J150vxsss. Any particular part of the engine you would like to see pictures of? Would using a timing light or spark tester on each plug wire at the rpm range when I experience this problem tell me if it is an electrical issue or a fuel/induction issue?
 

Jose67

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One more bit of information is that this current engine, 2000 Johnson 150 Ocean Pro J150vxsss was purchased to replace a 1998 Johnson 150 Ocean Runner J150execd. I purchased the newer BRP control box and a new engine to control box/tach and system check guage wire harness.
 

Faztbullet

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If it starts shaking and missing at 1800 that SLOW kicking in...if it just wont go its fuel/ignition or mechanical . Try pushing in key and see if it helps, if so fuel problem.
 

Jose67

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What would be the proper way to test that circuit? After QUICKSTART disengaged I did disconnect the two wire port side temp sensor (tan, tan/black wire) and the one wire starboard temp sensor (tan wire) and got the same result, would not rev over 1,800 rpm in gear under load. Would disabling the VRO and going to premix but not unplugging the round four pin plug on the VRO pump cause it to go into SLOW mode. I did get a NO OIL warning on the system check momentarily two weeks ago but then unplugged the four pin plug coming from the VRO pump.
 

racerone

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Have you contacted the seller of this motor ?----Get more detail.-------Perhaps there is a warranty ?
 
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