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Resistance specs

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  • Resistance specs

    Hello all.
    Hope someone can steer me in the right direction here.
    Im attempting to determine if my Stator and Timing Base are good or bad.
    First of all i have no spark, and have removed both from the motor for inspection.
    I have a basic understanding of how Multimeters work, and im trying to determine if the readings i have are in or out of spec.
    Not sure what the correct specs are for my Johnson 09/2000 3cyl 2stroke, because the readings i searched on the net seem to differ quite a bit.
    Both the Stator and Timer Base are probably original. The number on the Stator is 584560 and 14IZMX(i think) below it. The Timer Base is 584804 and 10IZMX(i think) below it. Motor Mod No J60VLSID .......09/2000.
    I assume it is a Quick Start Model.......but not sure. When it was running it would run fast idle for a few secs when started, and then drop down.
    The resistance readings are:
    Stator wires :Yellow to Yellow = 1.4..........Orange to Orange/brown=413 with range set to 2000..........Brown to Brown/yellow=320 with range set to 2000K(only setting that would give a reading).
    Timer Base wires have NO resistance readings at all between any wires on any range.......probably cactus i guess.
    If someone could fwd the resistance specs and any other advice, to me i would appreciate very much.

    Thanks all.

  • #2
    CDI has a troubleshooting guide on line. Sorry, I lost the url. Try Google

    Comment


    • #3
      Try here: http://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks.
        I've also sent an email to CDI Electronics asking for some detailed help on the problem.

        Comment


        • #5
          There are 3 ways you can test the stator and trigger for now just do this test on the trigger .get a meter like a CD-77 connect the black wire from the meter to the white wire on the trigger then the red wire from the meter on the blue wire from trigger turn the motor over with a good battery you should get a reading of 1.5v and more if its less than 1.5v its cooked.do the same with the purple and green wire leave the black meter wire on the white wire from the trigger you should get 1.5v on the purple and green wire.

          Comment


          • #6
            Can i do the test with just a basic Analogue/Digital Mutimeter?

            Thanks.

            Comment


            • #7
              To do the ohms test on a motor equip t with a quick start you should have 2 x 5 pin connectors one for the trigger the other one for your stator remember you have to bridge the black and white stripped wires with each other because you have separated the plug from the female end then you also have to bridge the 2 white wires .then with the red wire on the meter to the blue wire from the trigger and the black wire from meter to earth any where on the motor then do the purple wire and then the green one with the black wire from meter always on earth if you do not bridge the 2 black/white striped wires with each other and the 2 white wires with each other after separating the 5 pin plus you will not get an ohms reading

              Comment


              • #8

                "Timer Base wires have NO resistance readings at all between any wires on any range.......probably cactus i guess."

                Thanks all.
                [/QUOTE/]

                Do you have 0 resistance or 0 continuity? They are different things. Are you using an auto range meter and if not what scale are you in? SImplify things, use the diode checker and beep beep this.
                Those stators are pretty durable and they are just a few long pieces of wire. If you have beep beep they are usually good.
                I'd be looking at the rectifier myself. It feeds the low voltage side of things. PROVIDED you have continuity at the timer and it is ok.
                Personally I have not found CDI's guide helpful, but I do electronics for a living and approach things differently.
                Isolate the rectifier and beep it in both directions (diodes) and 0 continuity usually = junk= 0 VDC

                Comment


                • #9
                  A hall effect sensor should NOT have high R if any as it is wound the same as the stator. It should have continuity. So in other words I would look at what works in the AC side and what doesn't on the DC.
                  Analog V meters are great for testing these.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I will have to get hold of a DVA meter by the look of things.
                    Meanwhile i did some test with a Digital Meter.
                    Stator: Brown to Brown/Yellow = 208volts a/c on cranking at about 800rpms.
                    Orange to Orange/Black=104 volts a/c
                    Trigger:White to Black/White = 450ohms.
                    All appear to be in spec according to CDI Guide.
                    Checked for voltage at the kill switch wire......no voltage at all with the key on or off.
                    CDI guide says it must be under 2volts Max.........so must be ok.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Further to this until i get a DVA meter............I'm wondering about the Timer Base.

                      Initially , I had a Technician check the problem with a DVA meter, and he had no response from the Timer Base, so subsequently i replaced it with another......but still no spark.
                      Im wondering if there is anything i can check physically to confirm that all is ok with it?
                      Also, i not sure what im looking for to understand what actually activates the siginal to the Pack.
                      Is that something i should check.........and what is it?

                      Thanks all.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Under the flywheel there is an optical sensor.-----And a plastic wheel with cut outs to break a light beam.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Trust me, I just went through this on my ob. The first thing that you should do is disconnect each side of every ground wire that you can get to, sand the surfaces clean, apply some dielectric grease and replace. Do as good a job as you can sanding the terminal ends, I had to do some of them again. It turned out to be the only problem after going through what you are going through...Mark

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                          • #14
                            Sorry-----If this is not a 25 / 35 model 3 cylinder then it is not optical ignition.==I missed the model # halfway in another post.=====The magnets on the flywheel hub of the bigger 3 cylinder models work with sensor coils to trigger the powerpack.
                            Last edited by racerone; February 24th, 2019, 06:58 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
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                              Disconnected and cleaned all the earths that i could get to except one that feeds under the power head.
                              Not sure where it leads to.
                              Still no spark.
                              Ive organised another Power Pack off a known running motor.
                              Meanwhile im thinking of pulling the Flywheel off again, and checking that everything is as it should be.
                              Any thing in particular that i should look for to ensure all is good?

                              Thanks.

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