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TN 28 water pump impeller replacement

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  • TN 28 water pump impeller replacement

    Do i need to drain lower unit oil or can i just unbolt and drop it? Is there a thread on this? Sorry I am a nube on this TN 28 as I acquired it from my father that passed a year ago and I am trying to get it running.
    Last edited by 3DHUSKER; January 19th, 2019, 07:14 PM. Reason: Spelling errors

  • #2
    I think there is a shift cable that needs to be disconnected.

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    • #3
      There is a cable that puts it in neutral. Do you have to disconnect inside where you unbolt it to get to the WP? I currently have the cable disconnected at the top end as I have the flywheel off and replacing coils,points and capacitors. Just trying to get a plan together before i dive into the bottom end. This place has given me the confidence to do the top end. I have to research the carb also as I am sure it is a mess as this has not run in 18 years. Yikes i know could be a mess.

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      • #4
        you will find all the info in the LU section of the johnson red book pages 374and up on the boat info site … just print off what you need and yes you must disconnect the neutral cable and… reinstall it properly

        http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/m...nson.html#/388


        btw I have one restored … waiting in the shed…. magneto is the standard magneto your coils are likely shot and the whole
        mag plate needs to be service … easy as pie…. get some solid core plug wire and replace while you are it

        http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm

        you may need leather seals in the primer pump and you must clean out the bottom filter screen the float may be crumbled so you need a new one

        visit the POCHE family site carb and LU jobs listed

        http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/CarbService.html
        http://pochefamily.org/outboard/





        Last edited by Crosbyman; January 19th, 2019, 08:54 PM.

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        • #5
          Sweet, Where do i get the solid plug wire? I am sure the coils are junk by the looks. I can get coils at local parts store along with tune up kit.

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          • #6
            BTW..also …. clean out the fuel tank and vents

            the float can be replaced with a Mercury float
            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...1-johnson-tn27


            to adjust timing….
            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cj...ature=youtu.be

            the mag retrofit …and coils..

            https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Coi...72.m2749.l2649

            http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...%20Tune-up.htm
            Last edited by Crosbyman; January 19th, 2019, 09:08 PM.

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            • #7
              you can buy solid core plug wire on amazon but your local motorbike shop probably has some nd will sell you 4 feet

              DO NOT BUY CARBON HIGH RESISTANCE WIRE FOR CARS

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              • #8
                I see lots of guys referring to "solid core plug wire". I'm sure they know what they are talking about, but it may be misleading to others. It isn't actually solid core, but is stranded metallic "wire" core. What everybody is trying to convey is that cars built in the last 60 or 70 years or so use a carbon-filled string as a core. That stuff is no good for outboards. Look for "wire" wire at lawn mower shops, tractor shops, motorcycle shops, and yes even outboard shops. Some auto parts stores stock it too, but others will give you that blank stare.

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                • #9
                  true… the wording is important … 7 mm wire core…. strand core… solid core all good but not CARBON wire core


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                  • #10
                    Thank you for the information. I have a lot of work to get done in a short time as it will be time to get on the water real soon.

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                    • #11
                      I now have spark and will pull the carb off tonight. Making headway little by little.

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                      • #12
                        I resealed my cork float with crazy glue ( careful with fumes with eyes and lungs)
                        sand the cork a bit and apply 2-3 layers of liquid crazy glue or 2 layers of airplane DOPE sealer (aerogloss) or.. get a mercury float

                        clean the bottom plug wire mesh etc according the Poche family article

                        2 leather seals will be needed on the priming plunger ! mare sure you install them oriented the correct way

                        there is a filter on top of the fuel valve ….. you should unscrew the valve and back flush the filter


                        but how is compression on this oldy

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                        • #13
                          Ok... I finished the carb and decided i wanted to see if it runs. This thing purred like a kitten for a while then just went sour.
                          Had no power and sounded like it was running on 1 cylinder. Pulled # 1 wire off and no difference. pulled #2 and it died. Put wires back on and ran it again it all of a sudden had power so I pulled #1 wire and it sounded like it did before. plugged it back in and it ran good for a bit then went to missing again. I think I have a coil that drops out and then back in. It is the only part that has not been replaced. I pulled it apart and everything else looks good. Think I may just replace both coils while i am in there again. They both tested good and look new but now I think one is suspect. What do you think?

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                          • #14
                            https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Coi...72.m2749.l2649

                            may as well ….


                            coils can fail & condensers anything warmed up could fail chineese coils are cheap and if yours have airline cracks

                            I would replace them

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                            • #15
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                              I ordered a pair... It sure sounded good when running on both cylinders.
                              Last edited by 3DHUSKER; February 10th, 2019, 10:46 AM.

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