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omc 9..5 info

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  • omc 9..5 info

    Evening all.Some time ago there was a post on here describing the correct sequence for the reassembly of the hated cowling on the 60s and early 70s omc 9.5 motors.I have searched through the stickies but have been unable to find any thing.I have been asked for this info a number of times and wouldn't mind having it for myself.Any pro I've asked just says he avoids them like the plague,can anyone here help please.

  • #2
    Well, needless to say, the reassembly is the reverse of dis-assembly, if that is your question. If you mean both, it would take a mess of typing to describe the whole step-by-step. Better you just buy a factory service manual.

    It is an awesome job for the average novice. Personally, I've done so many of them I used to say I could almost do it with my eyes shut. But it's been so long ago, I might have to peek a bit now.


    • #3
      I've had a number of these 9.5's and have not experienced this problem? Maybe they were all in good condition.


      • #4
        Dismantling..... Take pictures, make notes of everything you intend to disconnect, whatever. You think you'll remember which way that little spring went on....... you won't!

        Observe the fuel lines that connect between the cowling and the engine...disconnect one end or the other.

        Observe the wiring leading from the Stop Button to the armature plate under the flywheel... disconnect the two black wires, usually knife connectors.

        Observe the shift linkage carefully for the bolt that connects the shift linkage to the shift rod leading to the lower unit... remove that one bolt.It's a long shoulder type bolt if I remember correctly. I'm sure you'll figure that portion out okay.

        Remove one bolt from the top motor mount and the side mount on the starboard side, then the bolts holding the two cowling sides together..... remove the starboard cowling.

        The lower front motor mount is usually a floating mount (no bolts)... it normally falls out (watch for it).

        Remove the motor mount bolts/nuts, whatever from the port side and lift the entire engine assembly away from the cowling.

        Reverse the procedure to reassemble. If I left anything out or goofed anywhere, I'm sure another member will jump in as a lifesaver and correct the error. Good luck.
        Our Questions Require Answers... If You Refuse To Answer Our Questions... How Can We Answer Yours?


        • #5
          Thanks Joe,that's very helpful.the problem was this was brought to me already dissassembled and the guy couldn't get it back together and though I have two of these motors I;ve never had to strip one..Frank,you are right a manual is very helpful,unfortunately the one I dowloaded from the internet is very explicit in just about everything except what I'm after,I should have enough to work on with Joe's info.Cheers all.


          • #6
            I have a bunch of these motors.-----Have not done a complete tear down / re-assembly for a while.-------Often these motors are " free " or less than $100 as few shops want to spend time on them.-----As I recall the starboard side can be put on first.


            • #7
              Geoff…. sent you a PM fyi


              • #8
                Good reliable motors that sound like a Harley Davidson and burn quite a bit of gas. 1 inch shorted than any other outboard I know of in similar hp range at the skeg. Great for shallow work.


                • #9
                  so far fixed up 4-5 of them … all $60 CDN or less , one free (1 still to go & in the shed)

                  fixed 2-3 with a peg /hammer combination to make them understand they need to turn again :-)

                  they all understood, run fine and have been saved from the junk pile in their future

                  I use mine as a troller and back-up to my ETEC…. most of you have seen it :-)


                  • #10
                    Looks real nice, being a 66


                    • #11
                      that one was seized solid I only paid $50 as " possible anchor" and needed the peg/hammer solution ...so there is hope

                      even when they come with no tank


                      • #12
                        The funny thing about those old 9½ motors, you either get one that runs like a champ always, or you get one that never runs right. Fortunately I have never personally known one that ran badly. Dad bought a 1965 new and after the motor mount retrofit it was the smoothest 9½ ever. Even when it was decades old & looked rough it ran like a dream. Dad gave the motor to a fishing / hunting buddy, so I had to go out and find another. About 8 years ago I found a really nice '67 from an elderly gentleman. I dare say that I will need to replace that impeller before I run it again, but I have a New-Old-Stock h.d water pump kit for it.
                        Cam Milne,
                        Toronto, Canada

                        1950 Johnson 5 - TN-26
                        1955 Elto 5 (Gale 5 based) - 5D11E
                        1956 Eatons Viking 5 (Gale 5 based, incomplete) - 5D12V
                        1958 Johnson 7½ - AD-12
                        1967 Johnson 9½ - MQ-13
                        1971 Evinrude Yachtwin 4 - 4136D
                        1976 Johnson 15 - 15R76

                        - all from freshwater and built in Peterborough

                        "None of us is as smart as all of us"


                        • #13
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                          Thanks for the PM Crosbyman,I'll get onto that.You're right TN ,I have two as I said and when correctly set up run like rolexes,it's just that they are such a ***** to work on and they do have some quirks,I always thought they were pretty quiet compared to some of my other motors..