Excellent, excellent, the end of the tunnel could be in sight.
That pin connects to a little metal arm on the control valve, try and make sure the wrecker gives you that as well. The little metal arm has a hole on it that the pin goes through. Not impossible to make one yourself, but im sure you'd appreciate saving yourself one more task.
That capped photo under the head is exactly what i was wondering about, great shot and discovery, hopefully thats case solved on that issue then, looks like it will be.
Have a good time rooster tailing tomorrow. Plastic bags etc can block up water intakes so do always keep an eye on the temperature. I tell all people out on my boat to keep cursory glances at the tell tale
Do let everyone know how the install goes
Thanks Bos,
I'm waiting on the valve to come through the mail. Can't wait to get this temp up, I think it's the source of alot of issues. They must have had it rigged for racing where rev constantly over 3k. Skiing is alot of idling and would mean less temps, and ski revs around 4k.
Also found the issue why I was reeving out sometimes at corners and planing, it was a spun prop. Managing to pick up a 13x19 SST prop for $80. See photo below, shows big difference.
A lesson a can be learnt about allowing people to add oil to your fuel tank. Don't ever do it, even from telling him the mix my damn brother added 100% more oil than required to the tank, result rich overload. Thinking he was adding for a full tank and not half.
Worst thing is he didn't tell me until we got on the water. I then had to run through scrub to get to ute to flush with new fuel.
Had to flush and drain 40litres into cans. Safe to say don't need oil for another tank with his mixing ratio. Killed two plugs in the process and was misfiring. Had to decarb all over again. Would I also need to pull down carby's from gumming up? I added Wyns complete fuel treatment to tank hoping it would clear it out??