V4 1987 Looper Low Compression & Backfire In One Cylinder

[oldboat1]

Missing, popping or whatever usually not a carb or fuel problem -- unless it is.

If you solve the current spark issue, but have contamination in the carbs, they have to be cleaned again (open/soak/poke/spray). If running off a permanent tank, might first try a portable tank and hose with known good fuel.

 

[Riley C]

Thanks Guys,

Boss,

I agree with what you mean. I think I had fallen off my path of direction there. I don't understand how the starboard coils work with old ones but not with the newer CDI ones. How could two of the four CDI's be dead, but the old ones work.

Each spark colour is light blue on it's own. Red through spark tester.

See link to new video, sorry I didn't rev it up.

See pic also showing under flywheel, is there meant to be the gunge in there? Prob nothing.

I'm trying to eliminate any possibilities. Since I have had the boat it has bogged out, before I even touched it.

I really wish the mechanic who did last work never painted the engine, you cant tell the wire colours.

Hi Oldboat,

My guess is the specks are from an old hose line from the breather or filler, when the tank is filled it takes the specks with it? So will replaced those.

Before I left on Sunday morning, the carbs had been totally pulled down with new filters, two of the carbs had a partial blocked large jets.

I also flushed out the old fuel with new fuel. The new inline filter seemed to stopped the specks, as when I took it out and tapped it, specks fell out.

When I first launched the motor sounded like its normal self, throaty acceleration but I didn't put my foot down obviously during warm up.

Ill pull them down again if I see specks in the bowls again. Then Ill also hook a temp tank to it.


This is with normal tell operating.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/djxncqislz..._0150.MOV?dl=0

I will try to have a test video on Friday of it in the water.

 

[Riley C]

Just make sure you do correct carb as looking at carbs the one's on left feed the port side. That the small bore looper and compression should be 110psi or higher. Lean spit could be from gasket on side of carb leaking or throttle place not fully closing(sync/link)

Fazt,

Just to let you know the other gauge brought the comp to three at 110psi and the new piston at 120psi. So scratches that old chestnut.

Cheers,

 

[Bosunsmate]

Have you tried the spark test to see if they get wet?
Also have you put a timing light on it to see if the spark is keeping to what it should be doing? If a cdi goes awry it can make her spark twice or out of time on different revolutions, you can see all kinds of random things like when a home computer starts packing up

 

[Riley C]

Have you tried the spark test to see if they get wet?
Also have you put a timing light on it to see if the spark is keeping to what it should be doing? If a cdi goes awry it can make her spark twice or out of time on different revolutions, you can see all kinds of random things like when a home computer starts packing up

I tried to find the yellow wire you said earlier near the switch box. I couldn’t see it with all the paint from the previous guy. I’m going to buy a lanyard as you instructed earlier.

The power pack is 2002, I assume some big problems went down from the VRO and a cylinder went down on number 4. the voltage regulator looked good and green. Is this a good indicator?

I’m still learning how to use this hair dryer if a timer light. Unfortunately I don’t get home until late, so can’t test.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Its a black wire with a yellow stripe. You can just ground each HT sparkwire to a bolt on the head and save adding another piece to the shopping list
If there is a part # on that powerpack you should check its the right one.
Yes those hairdryers take a bit to get use too, i still dont know 100% what im doing with mine but you can often notice when there is something which isnt happening right with the ignition through using it

 

[Riley C]

Its a black wire with a yellow stripe. You can just ground each HT sparkwire to a bolt on the head and save adding another piece to the shopping list
If there is a part # on that powerpack you should check its the right one.
Yes those hairdryers take a bit to get use too, i still dont know 100% what im doing with mine but you can often notice when there is something which isnt happening right with the ignition through using it

I have a question regarding the kill switch. Why does mine not have a lanyard on it? Had the owner disabled it? I push it in and it doesn't do anything. Can I hook it up again, guess I have to pull control apart? GOD

I feel safer having a lanyard to be honest.

Ill search for the black/yellow wire under the power pack tonight.

Thanks again and sorry to keep annoying you on this.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Its not annoying, it only becomes that when people dont listen to what you say.. repeatedly.
Too hot here at midday to be doing much else anyway, and my farms moving into drought and fire risk so not much can be done either.
Yes it seems like they have disabled the lanyard. It operates off the same system as your key switch. It when pulled enables ground to enter the kill wire circuit to the powerpack. It should be fairly obvious to see what they have done when you open it up. Perhaps they have removed one of the wires from the switch.
I never move my boat without it on, especially since it has wire steering like yours, but i dont trust the hydraulic steering systems with my life much either

 

[Bosunsmate]

The pictorial second from the bottom i find very useful. Check out the lanyard switch and you will see how it operates with the common ground and black and yellow kill wire as the ignition key does to turn the engine off.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html
The black yellow wire looks like a black wire with a thin yellow strip.
By looking at this diagram when you figure out how it all works you will see how easy it is to hotwire the boat without a key

 

[Riley C]

Its not annoying, it only becomes that when people dont listen to what you say.. repeatedly.
Too hot here at midday to be doing much else anyway, and my farms moving into drought and fire risk so not much can be done either.
Yes it seems like they have disabled the lanyard. It operates off the same system as your key switch. It when pulled enables ground to enter the kill wire circuit to the powerpack. It should be fairly obvious to see what they have done when you open it up. Perhaps they have removed one of the wires from the switch.
I never move my boat without it on, especially since it has wire steering like yours, but i dont trust the hydraulic steering systems with my life much either

Thank Boss,

Yes, we all need the rain, where are you located again south coast NSW? In QLD we haven't had anything for a month or so. No storms which is so unusual for this year even in the dry cycle.

Thanks for the link, very helpful.

Yes I'll search for the KILL GND wire and get a lanyard. Ill will complete your test as directed ASAP.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Im away this weekend but can give you tips up til then.
The powerpack normally has a black ground wire on it too.
If you take off some of the tape around those wire bundles you may find some which havent being covered in paint
Im over in New Zealand, up in the far north of the North Island

 

[Riley C]

Im away this weekend but can give you tips up til then.
The powerpack normally has a black ground wire on it too.
If you take off some of the tape around those wire bundles you may find some which havent being covered in paint
Im over in New Zealand, up in the far north of the North Island

I did your test boss! I managed to take out the bypassed kill switch where it was connected to the black/yellow wire. Fuel dispersed well over spark plugs on all four.

Further to to the test, I noticed the fuel turned green in the glass fuel filter. Far out, within 24hours it turned from the glass on the right, to the left. It’s contained to near the motor only. I have no idea why!

Found further traces of the specks or dirt when I smudged it. I’m beginning to think the discolouration is the oil solidifying? With the fuel changing colour as a result. But I’m no chemical engineer.

Specks in the bowls so pulled the carbs/cleaned again, I drained the tank. Why is it getting past a 10 micron eastener water separate filter and a Sierra in line filter. Any advice on flushing tanks guys? I really don’t want to take it out again.

Im sticking to the plan though, I have done your test so happy all the plugs had a little fuel on them, means the carbs are ok?

Now for the bog out, please any one correct me if I’m wrong. But I thought that the sync of the cam mark and roller had to be centre from the get go, as I had set up. But I further found on this thread, a old guy instructed that the cam mark and roller had to dead centre when the valves just start opening. My first way was not this setup as there is a slight delay between the valve and can, when I further checked it out. I assume without testing m this would be the issue when accelerating? Or am I wrong?

Any advice or sarcasm (puns in me) would be great at this time of frustration.

Thanks again!

 

[wannabewelder]

Fazt,

Just to let you know the other gauge brought the comp to three at 110psi and the new piston at 120psi. So scratches that old chestnut.

Cheers,

Finally on the 12th page you answered the compression question.

 

[Riley C]

Finally on the 12th page you answered the compression question.

Yes it took two gauges to get us there.

 

[juno pierrat]

I'll bet that manual has about two pages on Sync & link!

 

[Bosunsmate]

You can always use it as a mailbox, theres my attempt at sarcasm
That green is odd. Have you left the blue one in the glass over night to check it doesnt turn green too?
My two stroke mix with standard blue oil stays blue
Perhaps your tank has algae in it, or you have a yellow filter paper which is turning it green.
Between that the black specks you have something to work on.
Thats good the plugs all came back wet.
Il have a look at my cam mark

 

[Bosunsmate]

My cam roller and the mark line up when the warm up lever is fully activated (it also has start marked on it in this position).
The butterflys dont start opening until way down the track.
WHen you put yours in backwards ive no idea what that did.
You better post some photos of it at idle, when the butterflies are starting to open and full throttle

 

[Tassie 1]

l agree,
The fuel color is odd

 

[Riley C]

You can always use it as a mailbox, theres my attempt at sarcasm
That green is odd. Have you left the blue one in the glass over night to check it doesnt turn green too?
My two stroke mix with standard blue oil stays blue
Perhaps your tank has algae in it, or you have a yellow filter paper which is turning it green.
Between that the black specks you have something to work on.
Thats good the plugs all came back wet.
Il have a look at my cam mark

Decent size mail box that’s for sure. Ok so I’ll flush the tank out again. The fuel changes colour only at the inlet filter at the outboard.

see video link below.

Appreciate any thoughts.

influshed the tank through three times, still doesn’t make sense why new filters don’t block it.

if my launch doesn’t go well in Saturday morning, I’ll drive straight to the mental ward afterwards with a few pints in me.

I will get the WOT pics to you soon.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ziqx1mlv8r1g597/Video 23-1-19, 4 29 56 pm.mov?dl=0

 

[Bosunsmate]

If you have a few and end up in the funny farm dont worry, you will come out just like the rest of us.
It looks alright to me, including the cam, but i dont know the cam on that motor but how you have it is how id set it up.
I dont run any filters on mine, ive never had a problem.
Pretty weird for that first filter to be changing the colour. Hopefully its not straining out the oil.
It doesnt sound 100% like id like a motor to sound but ive heard all sorts before and they end up running fine.
If it still doesnt operate right i suggest marking each cylinder on the flywheel at TDC and checking timing.
Dont throw a spanner at her yet