Another Stuck Powerhead question 1985 Rude 150

[rothfm]

Hate to ask, as there is alot of tips on here.....and I've done a bunch of stuck head removals.

But this one. RGGGG. I'm about to hack into the adapter and sacrifice it.

I did the "side-drill" method to cut the long bolts. Had to drill through 3 on one side, 1 on the other. The front nuts/bolts, and rear nuts came off fine. Not sure of those stud are stuck yet.

cutting thru the long bolts, I left about 1/2" of the bolt below the Powerhead to be able to get those out once the PH is off. BUT CANNOT BUDGE THAT BAD BOY.

Just the gasket, and whatever corrosion on those 4 "cutt-through" long bolts and if any corrosion on the front/rear studs Is holding it on.

I've used MAP gas on those areas, hanging it completely off the floor from the flywheel. NADA, NOTHING. Tried to tap a razor blade into gap, to start a seperation. NADA. There is really no way to pry or apply needed seperation pressure.

I'm almost ready to hack apart the adapter, to save my good powerhead and continue my project.

Tips anyone...Adapters seem expensive, but so is a week worth of dealing with this one

 

[racerone]

Is the lower unit off ??

 

[rothfm]

Hi Racer,

forgot to add that, yes lower is off. Nothing holding it other than about 1/2" of whats left of 4 long bolts I drilled thru and of course the front/rear studs.its been hanging in my shop for days, heat, acetone/trans fluid...nothing.

But those 4 now shorty long bolts) and possibly the front and rear studs) were definetly encased in white corrosion. Plus whoever caked on PH sealant.

Unless another trick, my last attempt is to lay it on its side, make a retainer ring around my drill locations, on side of adapter with something, and put some Muratic in my drill holes. Let it sit a bit. Repeat on other side, and try to create some movement.

Lotsa work for a leaky PH gasket. Owell, if I have to chip away at each bolt slot on adapter to free up those spots, I will sacrafice it and buy one...too bad as not cheap.

thanks for reply

 

[rothfm]

Havent worked with Muratic acid before. Any tips using it in this way? With those bolts cut, do you think it will work into the white corrosion down 1/2", and not waste the aluminum around it.

 

[Fed]

Hit it sideways up high on the motor with a 3x2 timber & a sledge hammer.
Pick a strong part on the motor & give it a clunk.

 

[racerone]

Put nuts back on every one of the wee studs.-----Use a hefty pry bar or 2 with a helper.------It might break free.

 

[rothfm]

Thanks...Yep, I have the nuts all 1/8 down, just so it stays even/level if it drops. I got it back on the hoist. Will try some "coaxing" and force again tomorrow before attempting the acid.

Thanks.

 

[Bosunsmate]

I also heat those bolt areas then tap hard.I heat through the side drill hole so it rises up through it, then i tap on the adaptor by the bolt to try and break up the bonding on each bolt
Keep updating this thread please, after spending days doing this to a few of my motors i can easy imagine being in your circumstance, eventually they come even if i have to drill one or two a bit closer to the PH

 

[DarrellS]

Hi. I am a newbie when it come to marine engines so please take my advice with a grain I salt .
Working on farm equipment I would come across stuck bolts that had " swelled from corrosion "
My grandfather would try to strike an arc on the end of the bolt / stud with a stick welder , he thought the blast of current helped knock the corrosion loose . It always worked but maybe it had something to do with all the acetone and transmission fluid he had soaked it with also ? might be worth a try ?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Hi. I am a newbie when it come to marine engines so please take my advice with a grain I salt .
Working on farm equipment I would come across stuck bolts that had " swelled from corrosion "
My grandfather would try to strike an arc on the end of the bolt / stud with a stick welder , he thought the blast of current helped knock the corrosion loose . It always worked but maybe it had something to do with all the acetone and transmission fluid he had soaked it with also ? might be worth a try ?

Id agree with grandpops method too, those stick welders heat metal up very quickly so the fastness of it could help more than a blow torch. Just make sure the electronics arent still attached as the current can burn those things out instantaneously. People who weld on cars without disconnecting the cars ecm often discover that

 

[rothfm]

Update: Considerable success.....But still an issue.

Seperated the powerhead which was the goal due to bad base gasket. I did use Muratic in the side-drilled holes where I cut thru the bolts. I dont even think the Muratic was that effective to be honest.

I really needed to apply seperating pressure. Knowing the front of the adapter doesnt seal, like the rear exhaust section. I chose a spot on each side of the front "seam" to knock in a sharp wedge. Not wanting to damage the mating flange of either side-I chose this front area.

I carefully used the wedge on both sides, until I could see it seperating, then carefully moved down that seam, and it seperated good. Only a couple small marks on the front of the adapter, but I can work that, and that area doesnt seal anything, so all good.

BUT, and its a big BUT....I have 4 long bolts stuck in the Exhaust housing/adapter. I thought I'd be able to drive them down from the top. BUT NO, THAT WOULD BE TO EASY. Tried MAP gas, Muratic. I've bent every bolt or rod I put in to hammer on. They have not budged at all.

Really wanted to save the adapter. But I will keep trying. If not, I was thinking of either small holes along that bolt-line to present Muratic. Or, actually cut a slim slot from the top of the adapter down the length that houses the bolt. Thinking this would relieve the "expansion" pressure of the white corrosion, and then drive the bolt down. Sealing up that slot would be easy.

Getting there....if anyone has further ideas to now drive these now cuttoff bolts through the housing, I'd forever be in your dept

 

[rothfm]

Forgot to add....While tapping that sharp wedge in, The entire motor (minus the lower unit) was hanging 2" or so off the floor. So as it seperated, it wouldnt drop far, and the Exhaust housing would settle on its attached stand. The hanging weight of mid-section off the floor aided in the seperation as the wedge when in.

Dam, my arms are now tired!

 

[Bosunsmate]

The bolts are normally quite a loose fit in there with the area around them being what fills with the corrosion/oxidised stuff. Ive put punches down there and started hitting away off the side of the bolts direct on that white powdery stuff. It hasnt cracked the adaptor plate and has enabled enough working away on the corrosion until hitting the bolts they eventually let go

 

[rothfm]

Hmm, are you saying something super small to try to get between hole wall, and bolt? Theres space there but not much.

as ive pounded on the tops of the side cut bolts, i think they are mushrooming a bit

havent been back to it just yet. Giving my arms a rest. Thought about a long tiny drill but to attempt what you are saying (down hole between hole wall and bolt circumference....my luck it would break off.

They are really stuck, thought i was home free with PHead removed. Rggggg. Adaper is 100 bucks but looking like an option soon.

thanks

 

[Bosunsmate]

Yes thats what worked for me . You can also drill sideways in again leaving about a centimetre gap between top and bottom of left over bolt so when you whack down on the top bit of the bolt it breaks free and moves down on top of the bottom section leaving only half there left to be holding on. The adaptor looking like swiss cheese ends up cleaning up nicely with filler and a touch of paint

 

[rothfm]

Bosun, Thank you for that last tip. More Success.

I tried the "re-drill" tip you provided. Made 3 more along one of the bolt locations, plus my original up high. Put in some Muratic acid to sit a bit.

Begain tapping in an old bolt from the top. Initially was hard as the top was mushroomed a bit. But eventually they did all move. I then cut the head off the bottom, and drove them up a bit. Then back down, applied lube, and got the cut pieces all out!

Most success I've had with this PITA power-head removal!! Its amazing how even smaller chuncks of the bolts still are super tight. That white stuff is like cement.

I only did this on one bolt to see if it worked, and It did. I have 3 others to do, but now that I know how to do it, they will be much easier. I've saved taking the entire Adapter/Plate/horn and hardware apart or purchasing replacements. Very happy.

Only thing to be careful about is measuring the depth needed to drill in sideways to just cut the bolt, without going thru an inner wall. I just went in until I hit white powder (noticeable), then placed tape on the drill bit for the other holes. Worked well.

Thank you again!

 

[Bosunsmate]

No worries, im glad it worked and you saved your dollars, sometimes i have to watch even my cents