Q on using Lubriplate as substitute for lower unit oil

Good Trout To You Sir

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Question relates to small, direct drive outboard: 1987 2.5HP (model E3RC). Motor has at least 1 bad lower unit bearing. As a result, lower unit seals fail and water displaces lower unit oil. Lower unit bearings not easy to source at reasonable cost. Considering Lubriplate as a workaround. Some in forum use a combo of lower unit oil and Lubriplate. Is a "combo" method more or less reliable than packing the lower unit exclusively with Lubriplate? Generally I'm wary of mixing oils and greases.......
 

Tim Frank

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I'm wary of mixing water and oil....or....water and grease. You have a damaged lower unit that is not watertight.

I would have thought that grease coats well enough but my experience has been that water dispels even grease and potential for water damage is still high. Not to mention the collateral damage from running with wonky bearings.

I am not sure what you regard as reasonable cost for a bearing but I helped a friend R&R his 2.5 Johnson and the pair (both bearings are the same) were under $30- CDN....that is about $5- US. :)
 

harringtondav

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Every OEM marine bearing drive is made by a major bearing company. And the OEM normally designs around standard bearing and seal sizes. The bearing p/n is normally stamped on the bearing. If it's a tapered bearing the numbers are on the race and the cone. Google the numbers if you can find them. Else, got to Motion Industries online catalogue and use their search tool and search by outside and bore diameters and thickness.

If all else fails, take the old bearing to your local Motion Industries or other bearing supplier. They will fix you up. Same process with the seals. Get your self a micrometer or digital caliper. Measure the actual shaft diameter for the bore size, and the bearing and seal outside diameters.
 

Good Trout To You Sir

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... I helped a friend R&R his 2.5 Johnson and the pair (both bearings are the same) were under $30- CDN....that is about $5- US. :)
Tim Frank - Thank you for your thoughts. My 1987 2.5HP has needle-style bearings in the lower unit. Situation may be complicated by some wear of the drive shaft at the level of one bearing. (Unable to quantify it at present.) Did the drive shaft of the 2.5HP you serviced exhibit signs of wear from the bad bearings? For $5-10 US, I'd likely try new bearings anyway. What was your source of bearings?
Professional outboard mechanics tell me practically any amount of drive shaft wear likely is too much for maintenance of a seal. Yet I have operated this motor with the wonky lower unit bearings and seals for 75 hours. Nota bene - Yes, I have changed lower unit oil 4 times. No, I am not the owner responsible for bad bearing issue.
 

Crosbyman

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john Deere corn head grease is suppose to work … try it out see what happens

… but it does not replace worn parts :eek:
 
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Good Trout To You Sir

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Every OEM marine bearing drive is made by a major bearing company. And the OEM normally designs around standard bearing and seal sizes.
Harringtondav - Thanks for your insight. Will examine the bearings for markings when I pull the lower unit in January. The E3R model was manufactured for a brief time: 1987&1988. Despite the short manufacturing run, there appears to be some related parts fitment with other OMC motors. But the sources I am using are not in agreement. Do you know of a reliable resource I could consult for related fitment within OMC or more broadly?
 

racerone

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" brief time "-----How so is that.------Similar parts appear to be used from 1981 to 2006 on some.-----Do not limit your search to just a 2.5 HP motor
 

Tim Frank

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Tim Frank - Thank you for your thoughts. My 1987 2.5HP has needle-style bearings in the lower unit. Situation may be complicated by some wear of the drive shaft at the level of one bearing. (Unable to quantify it at present.) Did the drive shaft of the 2.5HP you serviced exhibit signs of wear from the bad bearings? For $5-10 US, I'd likely try new bearings anyway. What was your source of bearings?
Professional outboard mechanics tell me practically any amount of drive shaft wear likely is too much for maintenance of a seal. Yet I have operated this motor with the wonky lower unit bearings and seals for 75 hours. Nota bene - Yes, I have changed lower unit oil 4 times. No, I am not the owner responsible for bad bearing issue.

One bearing was bad....changed them both since we had the LU apart.
The parts we replaced were the bearings on the propeller shaft.
Driveshaft bearings were fine and no wear evident on DS.

I am now wondering which bearings are at issue in your case.
 

Good Trout To You Sir

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I am now wondering which bearings are at issue in your case.
Bearings at issue are drive shaft bearings just beneath water pump. Part numbers are:
0025282BEARING ASSY., Needle, driveshaft, lower
0389574BEARING ASSY., Driveshaft upper
If a wear band along the driveshaft is present to any degree - does this likely mean new bearings and seals will not be enough for an effective seal?
 

geoffwga1

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If you think the driveshaft is suspect why not get the part # and check out the salvage yards for a replacement.See the stickies above.
 

Good Trout To You Sir

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" brief time "-----How so is that.------Similar parts appear to be used from 1981 to 2006 on some.-----Do not limit your search to just a 2.5 HP motor
Racerone: To your point, my search returns several hits for related fitment of the upper driveshaft bearing. So is it likely incorrect that related fitment for the lower driveshaft bearing is limited to 1987 2.5HP, 3HP and 4HP models only? Part in question is 0025282.
 

Good Trout To You Sir

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Time to find the CORRECT part #------Try 325282 or 0325282

Very helpful. Thanks! Perhaps the 025 prefix was an OMC typo? Going forward, how can I recreate the double check on OMC part numbers? I ask since the upper bearing likely is available as well -- just with a different OMC part number. Thanks again.
 

thatone123

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I'm sure I might here some grunts on this one, but where I boat in the Far North where parts and everything is in short supply, creative "bush" hacks come to the fore. I know that filling a gear case with heavy axel grease will make a lower unit work longer than one may think....especially at low to moderate speeds.
 
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