1974 Evinrude 135HP

Joe-1709

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I coud not find omc puller one nearby. I used my brother's with a 5 pound hammer. I damaged the top of the center screw...see pic.
 

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racerone

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Use the proper puller !-----Or hurry to your local outboard shop to avoid big $ damage.------And no need to resort to heat or penetrating oil.-----Never had a problem pulling one off a 135 or other V-4 with the factory puller.
 

Joe-1709

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No luck with the puller in Quebec. Have to order it online..looking on the net. .. any reference Racer one?
 

Joe-1709

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Is this the puller I need?
378103 omc/brp universal puller kit.( see picture)
I have seen on the net different tool pictures for the same product reference!
 

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racerone

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That is what I use.-----It might be cheaper to have your local shop pull the flywheel.----Takes just minutes.
 

interalian

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I coud not find omc puller one nearby. I used my brother's with a 5 pound hammer. I damaged the top of the center screw...see pic.

For reference, an harmonic balancer puller works just fine. In your photo, you have the body of the puller upside down which is forcing the three small bolts to spread as you tighten the center bolt. If you can't get the bolts to reach, get longer bolts. Grade 8 preferred.

Once torqued, a good smack with a BFH will knock it loose. If not, tighten the center bolt a bit more, wait, and smack again. Prising upward on the flywheel can help too, as it allows the crank to lift within its slight play, allowing the force from the hammer blow to concentrate on the taper rather than being partly dissipated into the block/leg.
 

Joe-1709

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Oct 29, 2017
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Latest update.
No can do with my puller. Threads are in bad shape.

Followed up on racerone advice and took the boat to marina....they decided to go to alternative measures;
2min. Handheld torch, pryi 3 sides and hammer on center... nohing moved....
Second try .. gentel tap around on top of flywheelpry, pry 3 sides and hammer drill pressure tool with tapered tip and the flywheel is out.


​​​​now to the next steps...
 

Joe-1709

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Here are some pictures of the stator.
Do you see anything out of the ordinary?
20181122_142442.jpg
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Stator looks good from 500 miles away.-----Use a meter to test the coils inside the green stuff.----The rust is not a problem.
 

Joe-1709

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Oct 29, 2017
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Here are some pictures of inside crankshaft.
Why is their different colors?
what is the red color on the inside?
Do I go ahead and revmove crankshaft and pistons?
 

interalian

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The red is a factory applied primer of sorts that was done after casting and before machining. Maybe to seal any chaff that may have been leftover from breaking the sand molds?
 

wannabewelder

Seaman
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Aug 10, 2018
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71
No luck with the puller in Quebec. Have to order it online..looking on the net. .. any reference Racer one?
Princess Auto $30 harmonic balancer puller or $19 at harbor freight. Not great quality, been using one for 25 years though.
 

wannabewelder

Seaman
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Aug 10, 2018
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I'll add my 2 cents worth NOT being a marine mechanic. I own 5 or 6 of these motors from 85-115hp. Very close to yours.In your initial post with the piston ring stuck in the head it would be very unlikely the cylinder wall is NOT scored. If it is scored then STOP.
Those motors are for sale all over the place for $200.
In the event you are going to fix it add roughly $100 for each piston and $100 for gaskets. Maybe more in Canada.
Now if it is 0.030" over, you have to match piston weight. If it has OMC pistons, then match them. If it has Wiseco or ProV then match them for weight.
Now in the event it is scored you will have to bore. There is not enough meat left. If there is, 0.020" is $50/hole and 0.040" is worth $100 plus $25/50 per hole for honing but you are already at 0.030" which puts you near the outer limit.
Now in the event you made it thus far, when the machine shop checks it for taper / roundness, those engines are all over the place out of round. When they bore it 0.010" it will not enough to make it round. I don't think they do 0.060" pistons but if they do then a kit is about $700 plus $5-600 in machine work.
You may drop a hone in the cylinder and it may look great. It might even run great. It won';t be round.
You may bore 1 cylinder over the others which is a No-No but it can be done if you match piston weight.
I would say 0.040" is the outer limit because the cylinder gets thin.
IMHO this is a learning experience, evaluate your budget first and how far you are willing to go.
Those motors are bullet proof yet very crude. But don't be surprised if the machine shop will not touch it or in the event they do you do not get results.
I had 130lbs out of distorted cylinders myself. But if it is scored, don't bother. Look for a running head and put rings/ gaskets into something worthwhile.
If you are like me then spend the money, learn and take the satisfaction in having repaired something. I have a 79/85hp being bored right now in 1 cylinder. It was stock 3.5" and it needs to go 3.540". I can only find pistons 0.030" which means moving over to Wiseco and doing all 4. Not worth it, buy and engine with blown gearcase and swap head out.
Not sure on yours but most rods are the same in the engine family/range/year. I bought a head for $50 unknowingly rebuilt 0.020" and was able to swap rods/ pistons to another motor after it was bored 0.020" You have to watch the bolt pattern though where it bolts to the exhaust / lower unit. I did see lots od O/S pistons on Ebay that are used as well but usually used pistons are just that however with the Chinese quality lately used pistons are equal or greater in quality. The issues I have are always in #3 or 4.
Good luck with your project.
 
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wannabewelder

Seaman
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Aug 10, 2018
Messages
71
TX for your reply.
I did not mention that the previous owner told me that this engine was rebuilt in 2013. Pistons are 0.030. Engine is clean and all works well.
budget is too high for a complete rebuilt.
I am aiming more to check if everything to specs; if so, only changing one piston and rings and a cylinder head without honing.
is it worth a try or I look for a newer engine.?
see pictures.
TX again

Honing will bump the compression. There is absolutely NO point in changing rings and not breaking the glaze. You also noted fine scratching. When you hone it may magnify scores you couldn't (didn't want to) see. IMO if I take any engine apart and there is no cross hatch it is already worn enough to warrant boring. If it was bored 0.030" with no cross hatch your cyl may be closer to 0.040" already. Possibly they used cheap rings last time. Interesting 2 cylinders are glazed more than the others. Check your carbs for balance.
I would suggest you have a pro measure it.
 
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