Lower unit gear oil change on 63 johnson 40hp super seahorse

Java_guy23

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Wondering the right oil weight and i had seen on another post someone had said not to remove the bottom phillips screw on a manual...but thats the only one other than oil level and it says drain. Basically that post confused me help and tips pls
 

Chinewalker

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First things first - is your motor electric shift or mechanical shift? If you're not sure, does it have a shift lever on the side or not?

If it has a shift lever, it's mechanical shift and would use regular outboard lower unit oil. The drain will be on the BOTTOM of the gear case, ahead of the skeg. I believe this is the unit you have, simply because you said you have the phillips head screw - which you do not, and should not, remove.

If there is no shift lever, it's electric shift and would use BRP Premium Blend for electric shift units, or if going aftermarket oil, it'll be referred to as Type C for electric shift units. Drain will be toward front of the bullet.
 

Java_guy23

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racerone

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The drain plug is on the very bottom front of that gearcase.-----And fill it from the bottom till oil comes out the top.-------Fill / drain / vent plugs are both the same.
 

Java_guy23

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Racerone did you see my pictures? Am i correct on the drain/fill location and the gear oil i bought...its 80w 90
 

racerone

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No need to look at pictures.-----Follow the ARROW to find the drain / fill screw---The drain / fill plug is on the very bottom / front of the skeg.--Vent is up top.---That oil will work.
 

kbait

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Do not remove phillips screw. That is the shift fork pivot pin.
 

oldboat1

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kbait gives good advice, but you might in fact find a Phillips head on the big drain screw on the underside (at the arrow). The pivot pin has a smaller head, and would be on the side of the skeg. Don't remove that one, as kbait said, because you might have a devil of a time getting it back in. Not a disaster, but will slow you down some.
 

Vic.S

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The parts diagrams suggest that the original /OEM fill / drain and vent screws were socket headed ( Allen) screws but that aftermarket replacements might be socket headed or slotted
 

racerone

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Never seen a socket head drain screw on these motors from the 1960's
 

hardwater fisherman

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Yes it is more sensible... Those are replacement plugs.... The motor in question here will not have those unless they where changed....
 

Joe Reeves

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What I found in the Parts lists

Well, I'll be damned! Hard to believe but there it is! :)
Just leave it to Vic.S to go to such extremes.
Strange though... I just looked in my remaining stock and see that I have a lot of 307551 drain screws, every one of them slotted.
 
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racerone

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I don't think the hex design is as good as the slotted design !-------New does not mean better.
 

Vic.S

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Yes it is more sensible... Those are replacement plugs.... The motor in question here will not have those unless they where changed....

You're right.. They list them for my engine now. That did not have them originally.
The wording mislead me to believe they may have been originally fitted to the OP's motor
 

Joe Reeves

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I don't think the hex design is as good as the slotted design !-------New does not mean better.

Agreed Racer. Many times I've encountered allen set screws that have been damaged due to improper use of the tool or over-tightening, whatever, usually on the older control cable guide ends of which that type fastener was logical. But as a drain/fill screw/seal, it seems to me that a hand held impact screwdriver would tighten/seal that item much better than a allen wrench. However it reverts to the saying "To each his own"... owners choice.
 
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