Keep running darn it!

[1995EV115]

Hi there, my first post though I have been lurking for a bit. Anyway I have a 1995 Evinrude 115hp. OceanPro.
I have replaced the impellor (sprays 6' if I turn the nozzle out), lower unit lube, etc. New gauges, circuit breakers and wiring.
New batteries x 2 (8 months).

New items -
New spark plugs.
New thermostats.
Carb kits w/ new floats x 4
New fuel lines from tank
New anti-syphon at tank.
New filter/separator
New o-rings in fuel manifold (were leaking).
Fresh gas (1 week)

Anyway I think you get the idea. It sat for a few years but had no problems other than excess smoke prior.

Now, the motor started up, smoked like crazy (partially due to oil I sprayed in cylinders months before to avoid possible corrosion), ran good in a barrel at 1000 rpm for about 5 minutes, smoke reduced to almost nil, and then oh-oh. Couple of bucking coughs then a huge cloud of smoke again. I shut it down.

Main question, do I need to readjust idle screws though I didn't touch them during rebuild? Idle speed?
2nd question, should I replace fuel line from bulb to VRO? I didn't see any real problem with other replaced lines.

I have a '92-96 Seloc manual (hmmm) and 1990 Service manual for 120hp 90 degree loopers. I can't seem to find answers in either, lol.

 

[boobie]

Make life easier for yourself and get the proper OMC factory service manual for it.

 

[1995EV115]

Makes sense, anyone else?

 

[Faztbullet]

Are you running VRO or pre mix????

 

[1995EV115]

Still running the VRO. And I ordered the service manual. I hate waiting, lol.

 

[1995EV115]

Apparently the postal service misplaced my manual. Back to square one after a week.

Any chance someone could answer my basic questions? I'd like to move forward even a baby step.

 

[Tassie 1]

Compression test
Don't think you need to replace fuel line.

 

[1995EV115]

Compression test
Don't think you need to replace fuel line.

My manual finally arrived. I went to check compression (which was already done in spring) and found I had the wrong spark plugs. In addition lower starboard plug was loose! Not even finger tight. I had a helper...... I have correct plugs in and will try again.

 

[1995EV115]

Compression cranking test w/ screw in gauge results: Highest 142, lowest 132.

 

[1995EV115]

Hello in there, hellooooooo.

 

[Tassie 1]

Have you tried running it again since putting the right plugs in it?
just on muffs or better still in a large bin type thingee,
If in a large bin you can increase the revs slowly and put the motor in and out of gear,

you really should NOT do the above on muffs

your compression numbers are ok

 

[Rook66]

Main question, do I need to readjust idle screws though I didn't touch them during rebuild? Idle speed?

I have a question. How do you rebuild a carburetor, clean it, and install a new carb kit and not completely disassemble everything?

 

[fireman57]

You take the carb off the engine and disassemble the carb. You clean all the jets and blow them out with compressed air, check the floats and and make sure they are level or just above level and reassemble with the new gaskets provided in the rebuild kit. Pop the silver welch plugs out and clean the holes under them then punch the new welch plugs in (provided in the kit) then seal them with fingernail polish. Actually, any color will fingernail polish will work.

 

[glust]

Doesn't hurt to submerge the torn down carb in a gallon can of carb cleaner. Use compressed air to completely blow out all orifices. Some rebuild kits come with new jets, some do not. Not a bad idea to get new ones rather than try to clean out jet orifices. You can also spray starting fluid through the supplied straw into the holes to make sure they are clean. If you are re-using the old jets make sure that you can see light through them. The pilot jet holes are very small and plug up easily with gas that has evaporated to varnish. Make sure all gaskets are replaced and air screws if you have them have been returned to spec settings as per your manual.

 

[1995EV115]

I have discovered the Evinrude will run if I push in the key periodically. So a fuel delivery problem. Maybe I should rethink a previous plan to rebuild the VRO. Thoughts?

 

[racerone]

When you push the key in the primer valve opens.-----Fuel goes into the engine under pressure.-----The pressure is provided by the fuel pump.-----This fuel bypasses the carburetors.-----This would suggest you have carburetor issues and perhaps carburetor adjustment issues.------Check over the VST parts and pieces.

 

[1995EV115]

Isn't VST Honda? So are you saying do not do VRO rebuild? And check my carb rebuilds? I put brand new OMC kits with the new floats. I can't remember what I did with the jets. But I'm pretty sure I cleaned everything out. I followed the instructions in the kits to the letter. Could it be just a jet adjustment?

 

[racerone]

Honda ?----Oh well, I tried to point you in the right direction.----If your motor has 4 separate carburetors you might want to inspect the float in the FUEL BRACKET parts page.

 

[1995EV115]

I was on another site reading a guys' post about the VST on his Honda, hence my question. I don't need a point in the right direction, I need a shove! I am mechanical, not a mechanic. I try to ask questions that will give me basic yes or no, 'take this step' but the answers are a bit cloudy with inference.
Yes 4 carbs. Parts bracket page is found where.......? Pardon my being a dinosaur with the internet. I'm lucky to find this post again after finding my password, lol.

PS. I ran back to my service manual, no VST that I could find. Googled. VST on four strokes? I'm carbed 2 stroke.

 

[oldboat1]

Main question, do I need to readjust idle screws though I didn't touch them during rebuild?

Anytime carbs with needles are rebuilt, the needles need to be reset. It’s a mistake to leave the needles in while cleaning — first, because the jets can’t be cleaned that way, and second, the needles would have been set based on the earlier carb condition (pre-rebuild). The setting may have masked issues you no longer have — It’s likely the needles can be set a bit leaner if the carbs have now been thoroughly cleaned.

The needles should be lightly seated (clockwise), then backed out to a specified initial setting (not sure what it is on your motor). The motor should start at the initial setting. Let it warm up, then make adjustments (typically slight) for best operation. Do it in a barrel, water about half way up the leg, or in the lake — need back pressure. Look for the leanest idle setting that allows you to shift into gear without stalling or hesitating. If stalling on shifting or throttling up to high idle, set the air mix slightly richer.