Johnson 15 horse issues

[algul]

Hello. Complete noob to everything boating. Bought a 89 12ft smokercraft with at 15 horse Johnson from roughly the same year.
Started at home in like three pulls. Took it out on the water and took forever to start. Then after getting out of the no wake zone started picking up speed and it bogged down and died. Started after a couple minutes but had to use choke (weird because it was warmed up) worked for like 10 seconds but when I started giving gas it died again and haven't been able to start it since. Help.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Model number of the engine? Normally on a plate on the port (left) transom bracket and/or a small core plug on the powerhead somewhere.

The fuel primer bulb should pump up to where it feels quite hard. Does it? Pump the fuel primer bulb, acting as a manual fuel pump while the engine's running. If that has an effect on the engine, what was it (engine kept running, no change, what?) If the problem disappears, suspect the fuel pump... if no change suspect a fouled carburetor.

If the engine's been sitting for some time... the carburetor is no doubt fouled and will need cleaning and rebuilding... not a big deal.

However, check the compression and the spark which, if solid state ignition with all spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" air gap with a strong blue flame... a real SNAP! Does it? (if conventional magneto ignition, a 1/4" air gap).

Need the model number.

 

[algul]

Model number of the engine? Normally on a plate on the port (left) transom bracket and/or a small core plug on the powerhead somewhere.

The fuel primer bulb should pump up to where it feels quite hard. Does it? Pump the fuel primer bulb, acting as a manual fuel pump while the engine's running. If that has an effect on the engine, what was it (engine kept running, no change, what?) If the problem disappears, suspect the fuel pump... if no change suspect a fouled carburetor.

If the engine's been sitting for some time... the carburetor is no doubt fouled and will need cleaning and rebuilding... not a big deal.

However, check the compression and the spark which, if solid state ignition with all spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" air gap with a strong blue flame... a real SNAP! Does it? (if conventional magneto ignition, a 1/4" air gap).

Need the model number.

Model no. E15RCCS

thankyou very much for your reply.
The primer bulb gets hard and stays that way. I would test it to see if it keeps the motor running but it won't fire up.

The engine was sitting for a while when I bought it and now that I think of it it definitely sounds like it could be clogged jets in the carb since it was bogging once I picked up speed. I'll throw in new plugs, clean the carb and put new gas in and see if that changes anything.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Sounds like a plan.... Keep us updated.

Do check the compression and spark when you get time as that is important to us.

 

[algul]

Sounds like a plan.... Keep us updated.

Do check the compression and spark when you get time as that is important to us.

Welp. Took me long enough. Carb was clean. Threw in some new gas and cleaned the plugs and voilá fired up. I suspect there was water in the gas tank.

No pee stream when I started it up but that ended up being just a clogged pipe. Ready to test it out on the water if I can ever learn how to back down a trailer

Also do you by any chance know what the knob is next to the choke

Thanks for your help

 

[racerone]

The knob might be a slow speed mixture control------Used to compensate for changes in fuel / engine condition / local atmospheric conditions / elevation of the area where motor is used.

 

[Joe Reeves]

E15RCCS is a 1988 15hp Evinrude model.

E = Evinrude
15 = Hp
C = 8
C = 8 ... The two 8s = 88 (1988)
S = Factory run code, of no consequence................... That knob (below)....

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.