Can VRO2 pump cause carbs to flood?

[Funguz]

I have a 2000 Johnson 115 (J115VLSSS) V4 with loop charged. Rebuilt the carbs recently. Adjustments to timing, link & synced. Numerous sea trial went smooth. I took the boat finally this past Saturday for some fishing, the boat worked like a charm for the first 2.5 hrs. Then I cut off the motor again to drift and when I went to start the motor, it would not start for the life of me(same problem as to why I decided to rebuild carbs). The problem is, every time it wont start I notice there is fuel coming out of the carb plastic throat area on the bottom two carbs( port and Strbd).

Im positive during the carb rebuild the seat and float were done to specs of my Manual. So my question is would a VRO/fuel pump sticking or not closing due to diaphragm issues contribute to flooding, especially the bottom two? Or can I pinpoint it to carb float and seat issues? The carb butterflies are all closed etc etc with the linkage etc.

Thanks for any help!

 

[racerone]

The fuel pump can only provide so much pressure and no more. ---So not a pump issue.-----LOOKED INTO THE VAPOUR PUMP ?-----Checked vapour pump ?-------Checked carburetor bowls for warpage ?-----For cold start you are pushing the key in while cranking it over?

 

[Funguz]

I have not looked into the vapor pump. Yes, when I rebuilt carbs I replaced all new bowls, seat, needle, floats, etc. she ran fine all week during short sea trials. But as mentioned, Saturday during a 3 hr trip she acted up again but did great until then. Cold starts I alway push in the key two times to activate the primer selenoid. She cranks right up first time. But of course when she floods like she did Saturday, she doesn’t start. I will check up on the vapor pump. Hanks for the tip!

 

[Funguz]

When she died Saturday on the water, I had just ran for a short distance then idled the decided to turn her off to drift. 10 mins later she wouldn’t start and when I removed the air silencer, there’s fuel seeping from the two bottom carbs. The symptom that I can’t seem to rid. So the motor was decently still warm when I tried to crank, and not cold?

to add insult, I had just lost my anchor 15 mins prior and had to cut the line due to it being lodge underwater on some crazy rock etc, tried everything so cut the line, now motor won’t start and was drifting to the jetties! Luckily after numerous attempts to wave down a boat for help, a boater finally did and towed me in. A second anchor was thrown over but the line was now too short to really hold.

 

[racerone]

The primer solenoid is a VALVE that opens up.----It is NOT a pump.-----Key is pushed in and held in while cranking for the best results in cold starts !

 

[Funguz]

Gotcha, not sure if my ignition is made like this or it’s just bad but I can only push in, in the on position but not turn to crank when push in? I can only turn to crank not simultaneous pushed in and turn to crank.

 

[garbageguy]

... cut the line, now motor won’t start and was drifting to the jetties!...

dismantled what was holding the boat before getting it running?

 

[Funguz]

Hahaha no no, not that crazy. I had lost the anchor before hand. Knowing I had a small backup I decided to drift for another 30mins to fish then head in…that’s when she wouldn’t start so I threw over the small anchor. But wasn’t hold too well with the current and short line that was left.

 

[racerone]

A proper key switch would allow you to push the key in while cranking.----Hurry to a shop and get the proper key switch.